This question is directed to those of you (Bruce, others) that use the ladder method for track base. I know Bruce is using Tuf Board 1x2 (nominal). Has anyone used Trex (or similar) decking, and ripped it to size? If they get ripped to 1x1 or 3/4x1, will they sag between supports? Inquiring minds want to know, since trackbuilding season is rapidly approaching…
With trex it is important that the posts that you drive into the ground to support it are fairly close together…12" - 16" or so. Otherwise you may find you have a roller coaster instead of a layout. 
Trex is the original material of choice by the originator of the ladder method. The trex I’m seeing in the stores now is a lot thinner than what was originally used. They used 2x6 boards ripped to 1x2 but the ones I see now are 5/4 x 6 (gummy sized). I don’t think this is suitable…unless you rip it in half and use a 5/4 x 3.
Bob,
The one experience I had with ripping Trex to size was that it warped severely and in very short time. While it wasn’t used as ladder roadbed but rather to be an experiment as a material for constructing bridges and trestles, it discouraged me from any further use of it except as full boards. I was really surprised that it warped so much and so readily after ripping.
I use #2 cedar ripped to 1/4"x1-1/2" as the laths. They are primed before assembly and are quite flexible horizontally while providing good rigidity vertically. For the internal blocks I use either PT or extra cedar scraps I have on hand. The blocks are approx. 2" long and are placed every 8"-12" and every other block is secured to the benchwork crossmembers. Of course if I were building at ground level that would mean a support into the ground on every other block. The intermediate blocks serve to hold the side laths together better for a more rigid roadbed and help keep the laths even and parallel. Too, the short blocks are long enough to attach the side laths to while still allowing for nice even curvatures.
Originally before I went to a raised benchwork I drilled a hole in each support block’s center with a forstner bit to make a tight fit for the plastic electrical conduit I was using for posts to support the track slightly above ground level. I chose the conduit because it seemed generally to be thicker walled than other pvc pipe which made it more solid.
I don’t pretend that this is THE way to do it but it is my way amd has worked quite successfully for me.
We used Trex on the ladder subroadbed for the layout we take to the annual Garden Club Show. It sags and gives the roller coaster look that Warren was talking about.
I’m going to use the ladder method on some of the layout, the rest will be raised benchwork. I will use either redwood or cedar, ripped to 3/8 by 1.5 inches for the laths, then laminate two of them on each side of the spacers around a jig to form whatever radius I need. The lamination should hold the curve. I’ve noticed that curves spring back once they are removed from the jig if not laminated.
Can’t remember the brand name of the stuff I’m using, but Home Depot carries it as a trim board. Comes in various styles and widths. I’ve been using the 1x2 trim peice and so far I haven’t noticed any sag to it. Then again I’ve been laying it on a bed of 2A modified. The vertical support posts are 36" 1x1 pieces used as stiles for railings. I cut them down to about 16" and space them about 2’ apart, but if you have a sag problem , I guess a closer spacing would work.
Ken, the stuff you are using is called “Trimplank”. Both Home Depot and Lowes carries it in most stores. It’s white pvc.
Bob, I used a product called “Everlast” which is an all vinyl product, made from recycled wiring insulation, among other things. This product goes by various names and is mainly used for decking. My deck is made with 5/4 in. product over a treated wood frame. My ladder roadbed, some of which is elevated and some on the ground, is cut down 3/4 x 6in stock that is cut to strips that are 3/4 x 1 1/2. Supports on the elevated area are from 16 to 18 in between. Since it was built last October/November, we have had temperatures of -12 to +85F. For three weeks, it was buried above the elevated section with ice and snow. So far, there is no sign of sag. By the way, this is the same material that is used for the elevated walkways at Yellowstone National Park. It is [for me] very expensive. Constructing section of ladder on the deck made of same material [although different color]
Ladder was used here to float over the tree roots. This area has elevation increase as well as curve.
Elevated section of roadway. Supports were blunt ended, and hammered into the soil about 12in, using a sledge. Eventually, there will be some kind of cosmetic work done on this elevated section. Suggestions on what type of cosmetics are welcome, but don’t hijack this thead, please.
I have looked at the trim material at HD and Lowes as a future alternative. It is quite a bit cheaper and seems to have fairly good lateral stability. JimC.
Bob, I used Trex for the line I put around a tree in the yard last year. I cut the stringers to 3/4 inch. You definately want a helper for ripping the boards. I did find 2X6 Trex boards I had to order them in at a local lumber yard though. I put supports at 36 inches. The ladder has been set up since July of 2006. Here is a couple pictures of it taken a few minutes ago.
The only place I’ve noticed a sag is in one spot that I couldn’t get the support in at 36 inches, and the span is 72 inches. I had some blocks under it for the winter but evidently I didn’t have the blocks quite as high as I thought they were. I am planning to put a bridge under that section and placing trestle bents under the the rest of the elevated section. Here is the section that sagged.
If you have any other questions feel free to ask.
That looks good, Jack. So, you rip them 3/4 wide and the regular trex thickness?
Bob,
Since I was using the 2x6 trex I just ripped them at 3/4" and left the other dimension at the factory 1 1/2"
Great, thanks. Ive got a couple pieces of trex left over from the new deck, Ill experiment…
Thanks!
Jack Hewitt said:Jack,
Bob, Since I was using the 2x6 trex I just ripped them at 3/4" and left the other dimension at the factory 1 1/2"
That’s one variant I’m looking at for the line. What type of blade did you use for ripping to size? Question 2 How well does it bend? Thanks!
Hans-Joerg Mueller said:
Jack Hewitt said:
Bob, Since I was using the 2x6 trex I just ripped them at 3/4" and left the other dimension at the factory 1 1/2"Jack, That’s one variant I’m looking at for the line. What type of blade did you use for ripping to size? Question 2 How well does it bend? Thanks!
I used a 40 tooth carbide tipped blade in my 10" table saw. Bending was pretty easy I just used spring type clamps to hold the original bend
That’s a picture of the first piece being put into place.
Thanks Jack,
That means all the required tools are on hand. 
I was looking at the method Jens uses - formed angle iron. But if I can do it in house without having to go for the structural steel bending that suits me better. Easier to correct and adjust as required. And Trex won’t rust either.
I notice that your spacers are at fairly close intervals, how much flex is in that stuff on a straight?
The spacers are at every 6 inches. I put them on the outer stringer before putting the whole thing in place them worked the inner stringer so it would be the one that needed to be cut to make joints and the proper locations. Once the both stringers are screwed onto the spacers there is some side to side play that you can work with if needed. The supports going into the ground will hold that movement to very little though. When I did that around the tree I didn’t notice until I took a picture that I had gotten a bit of a belly into one of the straight sections. it can be seen real well in this picture
so depending on where your supports are placed you can get a bit of movement out of the roadbed in needed or it’s something to watch out for. If you take a look at my website under trackwork and then construction there’s a page describing most of what I did for that line. Excuse the typos (amazing how blatant they can be looking back months later). One of these days I should update that page to be current.
Great info, Jack. I appreciate it. If it ever gets to be spring here (we’re expecting snow and freezing rain tomorrow!) I’ll start my trackwork!
Jack Hewitt said:
The spacers are at every 6 inches. I put them on the outer stringer before putting the whole thing in place them worked the inner stringer so it would be the one that needed to be cut to make joints and the proper locations. Once the both stringers are screwed onto the spacers there is some side to side play that you can work with if needed. The supports going into the ground will hold that movement to very little though. When I did that around the tree I didn’t notice until I took a picture that I had gotten a bit of a belly into one of the straight sections. it can be seen real well in this picture
so depending on where your supports are placed you can get a bit of movement out of the roadbed in needed or it’s something to watch out for. If you take a look at my website under trackwork and then construction there’s a page describing most of what I did for that line. Excuse the typos (amazing how blatant they can be looking back months later). One of these days I should update that page to be current.
Thanks again Jack, Yes, I’ll have a look at your site. I’m always interested in proven methods, the plastic material ladder method looks very good for traversing relatively steep hillsides and then building the retaining walls and rock ledges to suit. Perhaps not the sequence of the prototype, but if it’s easier to construct and maintain … that much the better!
I updated that page a bit this morning and corrected the typos I noticed. Glad it can be of some help to someone.
Jack Hewitt said:Jack,
I updated that page a bit this morning and corrected the typos I noticed. Glad it can be of some help to someone.
I’m on the way to the “Big Box” to get some Trex and a few things to make yet more trees.
I’m sorry to report I did give some wrong information on this to begin with. After finding my receipt for the lumber it was 5, 2x4 by 12 foot Trex boards that I bought for that. 3 of them were ripped into 4, 3/4" strips. the other 2 had a 3/4" strip ripped off each side of it leaving the center to be cut for spacers. Since I used the 1 1/2" pipe for posts I didn’t need to use all the center section up for post allowing 2 extra stringers to be cut from those 3 boards. Again I’m sorry for the mis-information to begin with.