I’ve always used Krylon primer/paint. I used that on my 844. Had to go back to re-spray some the next day, after getting a few scratches in it. I had bought a new can, since I had run out. When I sprayed it on, it wrinkled the original paint. Any ideas as to the cause? I have now sanded it smooth and ready to re-paint, but a little leery.
A little leery? I bet. I have seen some of that on my boxcars - but only on a few spots and I never figured out why since it was all done in one coat. Do they have a recommended time between coats?
Same problem experienced here. I believe the consensus is the new formula.
Jerry,
i think you really need to look at the recoat times listed on the can. as you have found they are alot more fussy than they used to be.
I’ve experiened the same problem, but with rustoleum painters touch paint, on some of my LGB hoppers… I just leave it, and figure it’s weathering… 
The “old” Krylon was an acrylic lacquer. The “new” or “reformulated” Krylon (with the tapered cap) is an enamel. It takes longer to dry and is touchier about the times at which it is OK to spray another coat. Also, DO NOT put the old Krylon on top of the new Krylon.
Krylon Industrial paint is still acrylic lacquer, but it is harder to find and doesn’t come in as many colors.
Bill Martinsen
Bill Martinsen said:
The "old" Krylon was an acrylic lacquer. The "new" or "reformulated" Krylon (with the tapered cap) is an enamel. It takes longer to dry and is touchier about the times at which it is OK to spray another coat. Also, DO NOT put the old Krylon on top of the new Krylon.Krylon Industrial paint is still acrylic lacquer, but it is harder to find and doesn’t come in as many colors.
Bill Martinsen
Is there an easy way to tell by the labeling which is the lacquer? My reason for going out of my way to find Krylon was because it was lacquer which dried super fast and didn’t care about re-coat times.
Jerry,
was at wallyworld this morning so i read a can, it stated recoat w/in one hour or after 24hrs.
It was 24 hours later.
I switched over to Rustoleum, it did fine. Used Krylon for years, guess I won’t anymore.
Jerry,
I have used literally hundreds and hundreds (maybe thousands?) of cans of spray paint in my modelling lifetime. While we do not have the Krylon brand, I have experienced similar problems. Basically, enamel paints (if that is what Krylon is) require a minimum four days to harden before recoating. Touchup after one hour or leave for a week or so to be sure. I tend not to use basic enamel paints for this reason. That being said, I did find one spray enamel that can be recoated after several hours manufactured by one of our major paint manufacturers.
I have used the same can of paint the next day and found finish and spray application totally different to the day before, with resulting variations in applied finish. My preference is for spray automotive lacquer for undercoat and black finish. All my other colours are a spray enamel in one brand name only.
I also have had time consuming projects devastated by poor paint application/reaction. One thing that I always do is save my spray nozzles from new cans and transfer over the old nozzles to the new can assuming the spray is still satisfactory. Many times a nozzle will clog or spray erratically and it is good to have spares available.
Spay painting from cans is a black art, fraught with both success and failure. I find that while I enjoy painting my models, I do find it the most stressful part of a build for the reason you have found.
Just as an afterthought. Is it possible that the solvent /thinner in the paint, had settled out of solution (paint not thoroughly mixed from the day before) and the newly applied paint, 24 hours later, was more solvent than pigmented spray? This in effect then acted as a paint stripper. Any wrinkling of the underlying paint usually signifies too much thinner or paint incompatability.Another thing to watch for, but probably not related to Jerry’s problem, is silicone spray. People might use it for a variety of reasons, lubing, etc. If it gets anywhere near something you are going to apply a spray finish to you will see bad results in your paint finish. Many years ago I used to spray silicone on my tablesaw table and surrounding outfeed tables to make them more slippery. Then I started spraying my cabinets that I build with a laquer finish, bad things happened. It took several months and repeated cleanings of the tables for the problem to go away.
Well, I ended up stripping all the foil off the plastic boiler. Will re-apply new foil, then carefully re-paint. SHeesh…
Jerry Barnes said:I understand!
Well, I ended up stripping all the foil off the plastic boiler. Will re-apply new foil, then carefully re-paint. SHeesh....
Jerry-
Another thought: Any oil from hands on the foil will resist paint as the foil is totally non-absorbant. “Fish-eyes” or small circles or bubbles that do not absorb paint are indicators of oil’s presence. Having restored a number of cars, I learned about silicone and hand oil as a fatal combination for paint – either lacquer or enamel.
Let us know the outcome.
Wendell
I had cleaned it off with alcohol before I sprayed, I always do that. This has worked out pretty good, in a way. The new foil I put on has a bit more detail in it, so might as well look on the bright side and not dwell on the paint. I think I will spray some test strips of the foil before I paint this time! Too cold right now to heat up the shop anyway.
Jerry,
Could you try acetone for the final wash over alcohol? You’d have to watch where you use it.
I tried the Krylon can again, on some scrap. Can was warmed up and it was a warm day. Paint came out thin and runny. So I gave up and used the new Rustoleum primer and Satin black, worked great! Guess I’ll give up on Krylon. Had bought the can at Walmart, maybe like most Walmart stuff, it was made cheaper? Last can I got at True Value and it worked fine. I’ve found quality differences between the stores on other items.
I post this with some hesitation , not knowing how much experience you have had with spray can painting .
Krylon , I do not know about , it is not available here .
However , car spray cans are .
My experience with these and other aggressive sprays is to spray a little and often . The first coat should be drifted on from quite a distance , so that it is almost dry when it lands . That way , it’s not wet enough to attack the existing coat whatever it is . I warm the sprayed item up on a radiator to speed drying-----this hardens the paint . The second coat can be applied in 10 minutes using the same drifting technique . If you spray such a volume that it becomes gloss as soon as it lands , you are spraying too much , too close . A trick to use to define the drifting distance is to spray the hair on your arm . If the hair goes soggy and collapses , or the paint runs , you are too close and spraying too hard . If on the other hand the hair stays where it is but feels prickly , that is about right .
It may sound daft , but my RhB red forearm is proof .
If you have recessed detail on the model , gently drift the paint in there first , and let it dry without coating the rest of the model . Do that a couple of times or so then drift the paint on the rest as normal . The reasoning behind this is that recessed detail has to be painted eventually , doing it later causes overspray and you undo all the nice finish you have achieved .
I hope this helps , I have used the technique for a long time , so has my son , and his paint finishes have to be seen to be believed .
I forgot to mention that I always use Tack Cloth before spraying , it removes the invisible dust that only shows up like a rivet under the paint when it’s too late .
The little lines of bubbles that appear sometimes may be down to Static . I find that if you leave it to dry , bubbles and all , fine ‘wet or dry’ rubbing paper gets rid of them , and as they usually appear on the first coat , the remaining bits of bubble get covered .I did try using “destatal” , but it seems to contain something that doesn’t like paint .