Large Scale Central

Kadee Body Mounts? 910 or 912 box?

General Discussion
#1

I’m thinking of converting some if not all of my cars to body mounted couplers as a long term summer project.

My cars consist of LGB, USA, Hartland, Bachmann, and other similarly sized 1:24-1:22.5 equipment.

Looking at an LGB gondola for a test car; there is very minimal space to put a body mounted coupler box.

I would have liked to use the Kadee #910 box (old #830)

But I think this coupler box is going to be way too big for my cars. With this big box installed the truck movement will be limited when the wheel backs rub against the box in curves, which worries me.

Then I looked at a Kadee #912 box (old #835).

It’s small, and should give the trucks more room to move without hitting the coupler box.

My question is, which coupler box and associated coupler is more forgiving on tighter radius curves? Meaning which coupler moves from side to side more? A Kadee #910 box with a #900 coupler, or a #912 box with a #901 coupler?

Kadee, in their instructions, suggests cutting up an 830 box (#910) for “narrow gauge” use. This might also work well for me. Although may not look all that great.

#2

I’ve cut indents into the 830 box before. You won’t notice it from a galloping horse. It doesn’t affect the operation.

Unless turning your rolling stock over to examine the undercarriage is part of your model railroad experience, this shouldn’t be an issue. If it is, then you won’t like the 830/910 coupler box, anyway. Or, for that matter, the 912/835.

As far as which will give you better tight radius operation, I really can’t say. I don’t think that you should use either on less than 5 ft radius (10 ft diameter). You might be able to get away with 8 ft diameter.

This is why they call it a hobby. :slight_smile:

#3

The size box depends on what style coupler you want…

If you want the ““Slack”” action couplers, like the Gen series E couplers 906, of the standard couplers like the 830, then they both require the big boxes to function properly…

If you don’t want the ““slack”” action, then the smaller box would probably due…

Like Steve says, when I use the big boxes, I cut indents into them for the wheels to turn into when running on small diamter trackage…

I can’t say anything about the small box like in your picture, cause I’ve never used or seen them in person…

#4

I have uesd the smaller boxes on my Bachmann coal hoppers, because so much of it is seen from the top, through the frame. I think each car has to be analyzed as to which coupler box works the best. But you can cut notches to allow wheel/truck swing.

#5

I use the 830’s on the B-Mann cars I run 'round the tree at christmas…4 foot diameter curve…they just go through the turns, but they wont go through an “S” bend so the smaller switches might be an issue, I dont know…I did have to cut the indents/notches into the sides of the box to to allow the wheels room to move but other wise they do fine.

Hope this is some help…Later all Gerry

I seem to remember reading somewhere that opening up the hole in the coupler end of the box would allow for more coupler swing