okay been lurking here for awhile and want to start my RR in the spring (ground all frozen right now). On a limited budget and with the price of track right now and the fact that code 332 is too big for narrow guage I think I have settled on AMS 250 flex. Alot cheaper as well. "less than 4 bucks a foot here in Canada. Have read previous threads on the subject but would like to get an updated version from you guys. Too much for a greenhorn right now or should I stick to standard code 332 sectional track for the first go round so to speak. I would like to free float my track on a well compacted roadbase and use ballast to hold everything together.
Welcome Randy.
I can’t see any reason to not use flex track.
I used sectional track, but only because I bought it really cheap.
I float my track and have been very happy with the results so far.
Ralph
Welcome Randy,
Seems you already have the track (AMS 250) and your into narrow gauge from what I understand? Your in the right place!
Welcome aboard!
Thanks Ralph,
Only asking 'cause AMS 250 is alot cheaper and more to scale for narrow guage, which I want to model but concerned maybe I should stick to 332 sectional because I don’t have the experience to deal with flex track. Andas a side note should I consider a railbender?
Welcome Randy. I have used the AMS code 332 and like it much. I believe Bruce Chandler uses the AMS 250.
The only reasons I could see using the heavier code track is if will have lots of foot traffic (like deer or rug rats!) on your layout. I free float just about all of my track.
-Brian
Randy McDonald said:Yep...so you want 250 then? ;)
Thanks Ralph, Only asking 'cause AMS 250 is alot cheaper and more to scale for narrow guage
Hi Randy,
Welcome to the “club”! You probably need to prebend the track if you want to float it. OTOH you could use ladder track bed, in which case you just bend by hand and fasten the track every so many feet. In either case I’d advise to lay track when it’s really hot, last spring I was in a hurry - it wasn’t warm enough yet - and had to “correct” a few things later on. BTW I live just one valley over in the Okanagan.
PS I’m using Llagas Code 215 on ladder base.
Hello H J , yes only 1 valley away from me, maybe sometime we could connect up and you can steer me in the right direction.
This track selection thing has got me in a muddle…everyone wants an arm and a leg for it, but found some AMS250 at Art Knapps for $225.00/12pcs.
Hans-Joerg Mueller said:
Hi Randy,Welcome to the “club”! You probably need to prebend the track if you want to float it. OTOH you could use ladder track bed, in which case you just bend by hand and fasten the track every so many feet. In either case I’d advise to lay track when it’s really hot, last spring I was in a hurry - it wasn’t warm enough yet - and had to “correct” a few things later on. BTW I live just one valley over in the Okanagan.
PS I’m using Llagas Code 215 on ladder base.
Yes Brian (aka altterain) I want to use code 250 and have no issues with wildlife in my yard. Deer cant get in and the kids are grown up now, so no more wild teenage parties around the pool anymore. A bear once and awhile in the fall looking for supper but they don’t do much damage 'cept leave big piles.
BTW Like what you have been doing with your RR. Great work!!!
Welcome Aboard, Randy. You are at an exciting part of the hobby for you. Enjoy! PLease share as you go.
David…yes would like to go with 250 vs 320…just seems a little more to scale, but as I mentioned previous, a little concerned about using flex with no experience. Will probably have curves down to 4-5 foot radius and perhaps a little tighter in and around yards/industries. But if going to have to facter the cost of a dual rail bender into the picture than maybe should go with higher priced 332 sectional and end up with a few more feet of track.???
Ric… don,t expect any pics on my progress anytime soon, all frozen ground up here in the great white north…willhave to wait till March or so.
HJ…have considered ladder roadbed as well… know I could pull that off with no sweat…I build kitchen cabinets for a living soit would be quite easy.
BTW you guys are great and I feel that I have found a very informative place to hang out in the meantime.
Randy, I am using AMS code 332 flex track in a floating mode after having already built a fair size layout with sectional track, also in floating mode. I don’t worry much about it looking correct for scale. More important to me is that trains run without problems. I do use a GOOD railbender - about $250 for a GOOD one (I borrow the one I use). The main problem with flex track in my experience is that once bent, the ends of the rails are no longer perpendicular, necessitating some trimming to fit the next section, unless that next section bends the other direction - and I always hate the thought of sawing off some perfectly good track. The advantage with the flex track is that you can make some really nice prototypical curves. The “bottom line” of my experience with both sectional and flex track is that I wish the flex track were available 7 years ago when I started building my railroad. Oh, and one more thing - if you do use sectional track, I sure recommend USA Trains track rather than LGB (expensive) or Aristocraft (oxidizes quickly). Good luck with your construction and keep us posted about your progress.
welcome i use aristo code 332 brass. When i started i used sectional track for my first loop. Now all additions to my layout i use the 4.5ft track that i bend with a homemade railbender - cost $12 I like the larger rail because larger pieces of debris can get in between the rails without any issues.
I have not tried any other brand track but aristo. As for as the oxidation goes it eally depends are were you live and climate. I have had good luck with my aristo track. Another good thing with aristo is their rail joiners screw into the track giving a good connection rather then spending the extra money on rail clamps if money is an issue.
Randy,
I have all 332 and in many places sectional track. If starting over, I would use the 250 flex rail and I would bend it all myself. Things progress as skills grow. For my own rail, I have bent much of it with a single rail, railbender. Since the new dual rail bender hit the market, I would certainly use that. The learning curve for bending rail is quick and allows creativity of direction and flow of the rail. You can cut a pattern of the radius you want out of plywood, as your minimum, and go at it.
if it were me, and had NO kids, then yes…code 250; but aluminum…for battery power 
and live steam…the Train-Li railbender was some of the best $ money we’ve spent yet!
I use LGB flex track and because I have wide curves I just bent mine over my knee. I think the dual rail benders are the best way to go.
Doug Arnold said:When I was setting up the latest incarnation of the VBR here in UK, I took one look at the price of the beautiful Train-li but oh-so-Swiss dual rail bender, and decided to buy a couple of boxes of track instead.
I use LGB flex track and because I have wide curves I just bent mine over my knee. I think the dual rail benders are the best way to go.
I ended up with 13.5 foot and 13 foot radius curves - achieved very easily in situ - since that was all I needed.
tac
www.ovgrs.org
I have some .332 Aristo Stainless I might sell. Been thinking about ebaying it.
Terry A de C Foley said:Doug Arnold said:When I was setting up the latest incarnation of the VBR here in UK, I took one look at the price of the beautiful Train-li but oh-so-Swiss dual rail bender, and decided to buy a couple of boxes of track instead.
I use LGB flex track and because I have wide curves I just bent mine over my knee. I think the dual rail benders are the best way to go.I ended up with 13.5 foot and 13 foot radius curves - achieved very easily in situ - since that was all I needed.
tac
www.ovgrs.org
That has always been my thinking $250 for a rail bender or more track. Ill go with the track.