Continuing the thread drift toward mini fasteners…
I know how full size fasteners are sold, such as 10-24 where #10 is the size (diamater) and 24 is the thread pitch, but those micro fasteners confuse me with sizes like 00-80 and 1-72.
Is it really the same, where 00 is the size and 80 is the pitch?
If so, I need to find a visual representation of the diameters.
I may be wrong but I believe the first number 00 is the size and the second number is threads per inch.
Microfastners is who I use for mainly. Model Motor cars just has some unique stuff Like the tiny wing nuts and clevis ends
Right Doc, the first thread characters are size, and 2nd value is threads per inch. Here’s their min/max major diameters.
0000-160_______0.0210_______0.0195
000-120________0.0340_______0.0325
00-90__________0.0470_______0.0450
00-96__________0.0470_______0.0450
0-80___________0.0595_______0.0563
Yep, You are spot on Doc. its just a way to keep working down the number line when they ran out of numbers. 6-4-2-1 -0 -00- and then 000. At some point they went to nmbered sized instead on dimensional sizes. But if you are familiar with #10, #6, #4, well the 1, 0, (single aught), 00 (double aught), 000 (triple aught) are just a continuation of lower “number” sizes. And then the 72, 80, 90, etc are the pitch.
Then you can dive into the world of metric micro fastners and really confuse yourself be bcause a 1mm is not a #1-72. But thats for another day. I ONLY use the metric stuff as detail parts and not working micro fastners. I buy some very tiny ones that in no way could I ever actually thread.
On another note, I have not gotten a set, but they make nice drivers for the little stuff 1,0,00
And micro bolts and nuts need micro holes…
A #104 bit drills a precise hole of 0.0031".
Or even smaller .05mm bit which is 0.002"
https://www.precisebits.com/reference/diameter_chart.htm
I’m just glad to use a #60-70 range without breaking!
I’m getting down to the short list of mechanical features, starting today with the cab steps. They sort of wrap onto the brass stirrups.
Then finished the stack, with putty (sanded and inked black) over the BB’s. Also the final cap screen, 2 layers of black aluminum window screen.
I worked out what I wanted to do on the roof. No one knows (yet) what the Joe D. had as an original roof – but this will probably change with the research coming this spring. However, it sure has roof on it in the museum now, and that’s good enough for me.
That roof is 2’ square bare metal sheets, heavily tarnished. It was put on as a cosmetic surface, and doesn’t necessarily reflect a particular historical practice. So, using a scrap cab, I used 1" square self-adhesive copper sheet, overlapped and dimpled for nails.
I considered using “real” brass nails and drilled-in holes, but after 10 minutes said screw that crap. They’d mess up the interior ceiling; and this isn’t the historical roof. So I dimpled it (with an awl, just by eyeball), seemed fine. After that I tried 6 different acids for aging.
The section on the far left has the acid I’ll probably use. Nothing dramatic, but it sure knocks down the sheen nicely.
I think I’ll try an easier method for the sheet, which should produce the same results: crisscross 1/8" copper strips, then dimpling, then a single sheet over the whole thing, burnished in. [Edit: naah, the jagged joints look better.]
I laid out and lasered all the window panes and interior frames. Also a little marking jig for the copper strips.
Lastly, I started on the sand pipes, bending & cutting the 1/16" rod. These will need a couple new brackets between the drivers, which just printed. More on those tomorrow, Lord willing, and also final work with the boiler+jacket.
Looking good, Cliff.
It’s VERY nice to see some other sick folks doing the same things I used to do - well, except MUCH better! Nice work!
Thanks Bruce! I doubt it’s any better than your work (I HAVE a lot of it around…), but its comforting to have a lot of sick precedent. 
You DO know that you have officially crossed whatever boundary there used to be??? 
Yeah, and my epitaph will read: “He was PUSHED!!”
And here I thought that Ric was the pusher… 
Cliff,
Have I mentioned lately that I think you are a brilliant modeler. Everyone following this build is a better person for it. I know I am inspired.
Multiple choice question:
On a long-term project, when a modeler solves 3 big problems in a day, but creates 3 more, yet solves those new 3 problems, does he/she get credit for:
A. Fixing three problems
B. Fixing 4.5 problems
C. Fixing 6 problems
D. Fixing 0 problems
Answer at the bottom of this post.
So, here’s the three things I set out to complete, and eventually accomplished this afternoon. I’ll spare you the story of the 3 new problems & their fixes.
The cab roof is now secured with two countersunk lag screws, threading into new tapped blocks on the underside of the ceiling.
The next thing was bonding the jacket onto the boiler; no separate pic for that.
Then I added another detail that’s on the prototype, a metal sheet riveted or screwed to the cab’s front, all around the boiler. Looks like a bit of fire prevention.
I printed this flat against the build plate, without supports; and it came out fairly well I think. Had to sand more all around the edges, because of the natural flaring of anything right against the build plate. But it let me make a very thin (.02") piece without warping. And it only took 6 minutes to print.
The final thing was the sand pipes, which involved new little brackets at the bottom.
I think that’s it for mechanical work, so on to painting.
Cliff
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˙p :ɹǝʍsuɐ
¡ɹǝqɯǝʌou ʇsɐן dn uɐǝןɔ p,noʎ pǝsıɯoɹd p,noʎ sǝʌɐǝן ƃuıʞɐɹ ʇno ǝq oʇ pǝsoddns ǝɹǝʍ noʎ
Looks good to me!
And the true answer is a modeler NEVER gets credit for anything! (Most of the time we create AND solve LOTS of problems, though typically NOT in the same day)
You MIGHT be the exception since you solved the problems you created AND produced a wonderful model!
First, the good news: The cab looks great as does the sand piping.
The bad news: +3-3=0
BTW, I stopped raking leaves when I stopped mowing the yard. Now a “service” does it all…so you CAN’T make me feel guilty about something I’m not SUPPOSED to even DO!
(Yes, the yard IS CLEAN AND the grass IS MOWED!)
HAha! Thanks guys, and roger all that!!
Bruce, I used a micro tap of yours with a finger knob on it, but can’t find where you got them… Thoughts?
But for bare taps, I just saw this 4-size (00, 0, 1 & 2) set by Gyro (also via M’Mark) for $30:
However, the same set can be ordered through Home Depot for $18, with free shipping:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Gyros-High-Speed-Steel-Model-Railroad-Tap-Set-4-Piece-93-04101/204626125
They also have a tap and die set from 00 thru #6, pretty nice…
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Gyros-Mini-Tap-and-Die-Set-with-Tap-Wrench-and-Die-Stock-16-Piece-93-16103/204626128
Wait. You want me to THINK? To remember stuff? Yeah…right.
Anyway, glad you found something. I really don’t recall where I got them from. Amazon is my typical goto, just because it comes so quick. BUT, Mcmaster-Carr was a very close second. I usually did an internet search and then weighed the pros and cons for price vs shipping vs delivery time.
