Weathered.
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Very nicely done. I am waiting patiently for all of the gold leaf filigree. . . 
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Thanks. No gold leaf here, sorry.
Bigger fish to fry, like unmolding the building. Lots of rock to reattach. Some stuff didn’t quite work as envisioned. But seems salvageable.
I lost rock on the other buildings like this. Might help to make the mortar more liquid but then it might be a cleanup challenge. This way I just glue the rock back on. I hope.
Reasonably happy with the arch.
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The signs are going to look great and the safe is really neat. I thought you might have used a brake wheel off a train car. In movies once the combination is set they will turn a big wheel to open.
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Nice idea, Todd. The inspiration safe didn’t have a wheel and it never occurred to me!
The safe looks really good, Jim. The details give it that used look, like its been around for a very long time and has survived everything that has been thrown at it, both figuratively and literally. The rock bank is well done. Yeah, you have to touch up some of the rock but over time the real thing would need the same type maintenance from time to time so your patch work will just give it some age.
Gluing on more rocks to fill in the “model pattern bald spots”. After getting this a bit better, will add mortar which will help lock it down and make it look better to boot. I hope.
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Sigh. People should not plan weddings during Mik. Back from San Diego and had some time before the playoff games (go Niners!) so I started working on the doors and windows.
First step is to remove the plugs and frames. That went well. Whew!
Need to clean up, fit the door, paint, add Lexan windows. Will install after grouting the rock walls.
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Oh, and still some rocks to reattach, notably in the corners where the mortar did not reach. Too thick this time, though I had similar problems in all the buildings using this method.
That turned out very well, Jim.
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the rock work is so cool. Definitely will be borrowing this.
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Worked a bit on window frames and door. I had cut slots (using my hacksaw and mitre frame) in the arched window plug to use as a jig for gluing in the cross braces. Will let it dry overnight and see how it goes.
The door is .030” sheet styrene cut to fit in the frame. I used some 1/8” thick PVC to strengthen it a bit, make it easier to glue to the frame, and to space the door in the frame the way I want it.
Hopefully this fits back in the holes in the building!
Jim, it’s been fun watching you work out. Excellent!!
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Grout on the first wall.
Sadly (predictably?) my arched window frame didn’t release nicely from the jig. Melted styrene seems to be happy to grab onto wood too. Sigh.
I will try again with a less heavy hand on the glue and a widened, less likely to grab, jig.
Two ways to pop it out.
Dribble some more MEK around. Or use a #11 blade and pop it off. I’ve tried both methods.
Jim how are you grouting and what are you using. I was wondering how one can fill the gaps but not make a mess of it. As i have watched your progress this has been in the back of my mind.
For the windows can you use a “light hand” with the MEK and then once released reapply MEK to get a deeper bond? I think the way you are doing it is a great idea and hopefully you will perfect it.
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Well, hmmm. I am wondering how to not make a mess too! Grout seems inherently messy.
This is what I use:
Non-sanded was suggested by Boomer. Fits the nooks and crannies I guess.
I mix it up, slather it on, use a pretty wet sponge to remove the grout on the rock faces some what, then use a toothbrush and/or dremel wire brush to get the residual.
Elbow grease is required.
About to grout more walls. This is the result of yesterday, after a light brushing and moist sponge.
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Okay came out better than what I was speculating. So basically you grouted it as you would anything else you grout. I think that came out very nice.
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Yes, exactly right. Precisely. On the nose. Do I have 20 characters yet?
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