Here is how I have done the basic battery R/C installation using the new RCS PnP-3, but no sounds. The first thing to do was remove the weights from either side of the speaker mounting. The glue Bachmann used is so tough the only way I could get the nuts off was to grind off the excess thread with a cutting disc.
Then the nuts would budge. As the K-27 operates at a very realistic top speed on about 14 volts, I chose to use 2 x 2,400 mah 7.2 volt SubC NiCd packs wired in series to give 14.4 volts. First of all I mounted a 3" 1 watt speaker in the tender even though I will not be installing sound just yet.
Next I glued the two battery packs to the uprights and part of the speaker frame. They lean inwards slightly but that is not a problem. The two battery packs are put in series with an RCS # Y-CABLE set. Sorry about the picture quality. I still can’t master this Cannon camera.
The next K-27 I do will have an oval speaker. That way I can mount the batteries on the tender floor. I mounted the RCS TX-8 receiver up under the rear of the tender shell. The BIK-U3 charge jack was mounted in the water hatch. This required trimming out a small amount of the support web to clear the jack.
I tacked the Azarra antenna into place with dabs of silicone glue along the inside top edge of the tender shell. Even though the suplied RCS antenna gives adequate range when strung out straight I always use an Azarr in tightish situations.
The BIK-U3 switch pcb was mounted right behind the battery packs. The switch is readily accessible by reaching under the tender. It is easy to flip the switch ON - OFF with one finger. This pic also shows how neat the basic wiring can be. There will be plenty of room for the Phoenix P5 + P5T sound system I will be adding at a later date. The PnP-3 simply plugs into the socket in place of the supplied dummy pcb.
The 3 x wire Red/Black/White wires are the cabling for the charge jack mounted in the water hatch.
The installation from the front.
The installation from the rear.
The plug in PnP-3 shown is a prototype. It has a heatsink on the H bridge motor driver for maximum current capability. Production PnP-3’s will be available early March. As well as this RCS version there will also be an EVO PnP-3 for those that use regular low cost 2 stick Digital Proportional R/C. The installation provides a fused battery supply and the PnP-3 has inbuilt motor “noise” suppression. Performance is flawless. I have not had it outside to check range but I would expect at least 100’. I will run such a test in the next few days and report back. Here is how I did the Phoenix P5 + P5T sound system. There are just 3 x solder joints. Two wires for the speaker and one wire from the PnP-3 chuff connection to the P5. Ther are screw termianls on the BIK-U3. All other wiring connections are plug and socket. Nice and simple.
The # Plus-3 provides an extra 3 functions with the P5 + P5T. Most of the wiring is excess with the Phoenix sound. Their plug and socket leads cannot be shortened.
The stock Bachmann onboard electronics works for me. To date I believe this is the only truly PnP installation with sound anyone has achieved. i.e. Absolutely no modifications or additions to the Bachmann electronics. The chuff works just like I expected it to. The chuff beats seem to be pretty even to me. There have been just four hidden holes drilled in the bodywork. Two in the water hatch for the battery charge jack and the Phoenix programming jack. Two in the floor for the ON - OFF switch and Volume control. I will get the outdoor testing done as soon as I can. The next loco I do will show how to install Sierra sound and then how to install Dallee sound.
