Hi guys. I know I’ve seen posts on this before and I would appreciate anyone pointing me to them. I have a section of track, maybe 18 to 24", that people must step on to get to part of my layout. I would like to encase it in concrete so that it can withstand being stepped on. I could also build a wood structure, possibly. I’m looking for guidance. Thanks.
Here is one thread.
BTW encasing the track in concrete could create a problem. Recessing to the top of the rail profile and letting it float could be a “more flexible” solution.
Thanks Hans. I like the idea of floating the track. Maybe I can reinforce it with some additional solid wood ties to take some of the weight.
That’s an interesting option. I’ll have to see if it might work in the space.
John Caughey said:
Split jaw makes a walk on railbed… in several styles.
John
I have two custom sized ones from them and they are great. One is at the door on the house and the other is at the gate in the fence. They are great people to deal with. I also use their rail connectors.
Also consider using stainless steel rail at this point, very strong…
I recessed track in my sidewalk, and the track is free floating. A bit hard to tell with the snow but it’s working good so far.
Welcome Michael! One more Canuck on board! 
Looks like that snow has been blown around already.
Thanks. That was early November. Everything is covered in snow now.
This was meant to be very temporary, but its been a couple of years now. its sitting on bricks and graveled all the way around to reduce rot until I decide how to move forward. its made of doug fir 4x4’s strapped together. I like the idea of the free floating track on concrete.
Having done the track imbedded in concrete several years ago…
I agree with those that suggest floating the track in a recess in the walkway. My imbedded track has several maintenance issues.
Small stones, twigs and bird seed are always getting jammed into the flange-ways.
Since the attached track floats; especially the track on the top of picture 1, it tends to rise over time while the imbedded track stays put. This causes a vertical curve that needs correcting every few years by lifting the attached track and cutting down the roadbed.
If I knew then what I know now I would have left the trench I cut in the walkway and filled it with ballast stone leaving the track to float…
(http://photo.cvsry.com/cross9-640.jpg)
I would still recommend filling the ties with patching cement to keep them from collapsing when the track gets stepped on or rolled over by the wheelbarrow etc.
I have a section about 48" long where I needed a garden wagon to go over. I made a “U” shape out of 3 Pressure treated 2x4 pieces where a piece of track is laid into it and the rail head is even with the top of it. I buried a few cement blocks to rest the “U” on and placed gravel around it to dispel water. It has been in place for 4 years now.
on another section I had to cross 2 steps to a deck so I routered a channel into the 5 quarter by 6 inch board and placed a piece of track into it. It is simple and it works.
Whatever way you decide to make your crossing be sure to leave enough clearance inbetween the rails to clear your couplers and on the sides to clear overhanging train bits.
I had a friend that insisted in concreting around the rails in various spots. Every 6 months or so we had to either raise the concreted section or break the concrete away, which usually destroyed several ties.
A lot of time replacing rails and free floating. Next time we visited, the concrete was in place again and the track had a dip there and derailments.
Greg
I like the idea of filling the ties. Hmm…
Concrete Ties, just like the prototypes. Only the mold is left on. 
Previously posted picture of track embedded in redwood deck. We routed two slots in 14’ long 2" x 6" planks to a depth just the same depth as the height of the track plus ties, laid in the track with ties, then inlaid wooden strips between and along the rails so that everything is flush with the deck surface. Walking directly on the rails is no problem. Now and then twigs, leaves, and seeds must be cleaned out of the flange slots.
I poured concrete right up to the tracks, then you step over not that big off a step.
Looks nice, and what a nice green lawn for this time of year! How about posting a map of your track plan?
Wow, Michael, that’s great.
Sully wanted to drive his mower, 4 wheel cart, and occasionally a vehicle over the track. The split jaw deal on the ground seemed too flimsy, so we poured a 4 inch reinforced concrete pad to support it.