Large Scale Central

Indoor Large Scale Layout for the Kids

INDOOR LARGE SCALE LAYOUT FOR THE KIDS

Hi all

I would like to share with you my thoughts about building a large scale indoor layout that the kids can use all year round. In fact, the grandkids - the main excuse for all large scale train expenses - are really into trains. They want to play with them every time they visit or sleep over.

The problem is, I live in a flat in the city center and the garden train is at the weekend house, so the kids don’t get to play with the garden trains that often. So I picked up some Thomas trains and some track from Bachmann train sets and put down some temporary layouts when the kids visit, where space is available.

Putting down the layout every time the kids visit is a chore; listening to SWMBO whenever I let the layout on the floor is also not very pleasant. So I looked for a way to make an attractive layout for the kids, easy to put up and easy to put away.

Giving the geometry of Bachmann tinplate track, a minimum of about 1.4 x 2.8 m (4’8” by 9’4” will be required to make an interesting layout; a board of this size is impossible to carry and store and must be split into four boards 1.4 x 0.7 m (4’8” by 2’4” which can be easily carried and stored.

Each baseboard piece is made with a simple white melamine coated MDF, 10 mm thick, weighting 6 kg (13 lb). Each board has 10 mm diameter holes near each corner. This holes are used to hang them from pegs on the wall and also to connect them once they are laid on the floor. Figures 1 to 3 show how the board can be hang from a wall and mounted on the floor.

Figure 1 – 8 mm thick steel pegs are fixed on the wall, protruding about 6” from the wall

Figure 2 – The four boards, each about 30 mm thick, including track, are hung from the steel pegs.

Figure 3 – The boards are assembled on the floor using 5 connecting pieces with wooden pegs (four double and the central one with four wood pegs).

The connector pieces double as unipolar electrical plugs, allowing each board to receive energy once the main board is fed. Figure 4 shows how this can be done. This is necessary because, to facilitate assembly, the tracks on each side of each baseboard subdivision simply touch one another – connectors are removed. So the conducting connectors assure electrical continuity

Figure 4 – Electrical wiring of the four boards.

Juggling in CAD with the available track geometry I arrived at a minimum width layout with a curved passing loop and two parking tracks on one of the sides, indicated in figure 5.

Figure 5 – Diagram of the chosen layout

The layout uses only conventional straight and curved tracks, except for two half curves on the left side, to depart a little from the basic oval. This half curves are obtained by cutting to normal curved tracks – later I will show how this can be simply done, taking into account the characteristics of the tinplate track.

To improve the aesthetics of the layout, the boards will be covered with inkjet printed adhesive vinyl film, with a protecting upper layer, so that the kids can step over with minimum damage. Printing the film is expensive (about 200€ for the whole board) but I think it increases the play value of the thing. I tried a simple and colorful design, to remind of the old tinplate toys that I loved when I was a kid. The design I come up is indicated in figure 6.

Figure 6 – The printed vinyl decorative background.

With the track, the result will be like this:

Figure 7 – A view of the final layout

I hope I can show you in the near future – I will try before Christmas – how this thing turned out in reality.

José Morais

Headmaster of the Lapa Furada RR

José

If you have the wall space , why not hinge one end of the whole layout,(the other end of hinge, attach to wall) and just flip it up and secure it to the wall when not in use? Add a couple of legs and it’s off the floor.

Sean McGillicuddy said:

José

If you have the wall space , why not hinge one end of the whole layout,(the other end of hinge, attach to wall) and just flip it up and secure it to the wall when not in use? Add a couple of legs and it’s off the floor.

Sean and José, I thought the same thing…either way- its a brilliant idea and the rendering is awesome as well!

When I was a kid, me 4x8 layout folded up against the wall like a Murphy bed. When set up, it was about four feet above the floor. When I was 7, I needed a chair to reach the controls, but as I grew up, I didn’t.

Sean, Cale and Steve:

Thanks for your replies.

Those suggestions point to one of the aspects where LS is quite different from the old H0 - size.

This would be an awesome alternative:

But when closed, oops… The board length is higher than the ceiling height… :slight_smile:

And no, I do not have 10 ft of free wall to hang the board sideways - and anyway my wife would never let me hang that wooden contraption on the wall.

Thanks for your suggestion, that also allow me to show the usefulness of using CAD to test design alternatives.

José Morais

Headmaster of the Lapa Furada RR

Looking good. What if you put a piano hinge half way so it would fold in half?

can you fit that on a napkin so we can understand it…:wink:

As a kid, I had a 4x8 foot layout, and it was hinged into the “wall” like a murphy bed, and like a murphy bed, the wall was “built out” and the hinge was about 2 feet from the floor and 2 feet from the end of the layout.

Thus it came out at a reasonable height for a little kid, and the 2 foot “build out” of the wall housed shelves for the trains.

So this allowed an 8 foot long layout that was not higher than the ceiling.

Greg

José Morais said:

Sean, Cale and Steve:

Thanks for your replies.

Those suggestions point to one of the aspects where LS is quite different from the old H0 - size.

This would be an awesome alternative:

But when closed, oops… The board length is higher than the ceiling height… :slight_smile:

And no, I do not have 10 ft of free wall to hang the board sideways - and anyway my wife would never let me hang that wooden contraption on the wall.

Thanks for your suggestion, that also allow me to show the usefulness of using CAD to test design alternatives.

José Morais

Headmaster of the Lapa Furada RR

How high is the ceiling? Most Murphy bed type fold downs are designed to allow the wall end to fold down to floor height and the head end to tuck up just under the ceiling, if you moved the pivot point farther up the side of the layout you may be able to achieve a single sheet fold up, it would mean having part of the layout sticking farther out into the room in the stored position but believe me would be much easier than manipulating 4 separate individual sheets.

If that’s a no-go then I would suggest still doing it as a single sheet, but then storing it by tipping it up against the wall and using something to secure the layout by the upper sides (above kids hands level). Doing it in four separate sheets is going to have its own set of issues setting up and taking down each time.

I love it. The CAD is an awesome tool for this kind of stuff.

Well, since you actually considered the idea, in a Murphy bed, the part that is attached to the wall actually slides in a sloped track, so that when closed, it rests on the floor. As you open it up, you then raise the wall end to the appropriate height, into catches of your choosing. My Dad chose 16d nails and holes drilled in the wood. The layout folded into a built out cabinet that stuck out from the wall about twelve inches, allowing room for a second level to the layout, plus room to store my trains on storage tracks attached to the wall, inside the cabinetry, cleverly designed to avoid the tracks. The layout was built in 0 Gauge.

Shawn (napkin builder) Viggiano said:

I love it. The CAD is an awesome tool for this kind of stuff.

Are you changing your nickname ?

Sean McGillicuddy said:

Shawn (napkin builder) Viggiano said:

I love it. The CAD is an awesome tool for this kind of stuff.

Are you changing your nickname ?

Shawn (the CAD) Viggiano.?..:wink:

I was thinking the same! :stuck_out_tongue:

GMTA…:wink:

This is were we say "Shut up Rooster ", right???

Steve Featherkile said:

Well, since you actually considered the idea, in a Murphy bed, the part that is attached to the wall actually slides in a sloped track, so that when closed, it rests on the floor. As you open it up, you then raise the wall end to the appropriate height, into catches of your choosing. My Dad chose 16d nails and holes drilled in the wood. The layout folded into a built out cabinet that stuck out from the wall about twelve inches, allowing room for a second level to the layout, plus room to store my trains on storage tracks attached to the wall, inside the cabinetry, cleverly designed to avoid the tracks. The layout was built in 0 Gauge.

José
can you draw up this?

As the boss said: my wife would never let me hang that wooden contraption on the wall.
What about a cabinet like Steve was talking about?

Steve Featherkile said:

Well, since you actually considered the idea, in a Murphy bed, the part that is attached to the wall actually slides in a sloped track, so that when closed, it rests on the floor. As you open it up, you then raise the wall end to the appropriate height, into catches of your choosing. My Dad chose 16d nails and holes drilled in the wood. The layout folded into a built out cabinet that stuck out from the wall about twelve inches, allowing room for a second level to the layout, plus room to store my trains on storage tracks attached to the wall, inside the cabinetry, cleverly designed to avoid the tracks. The layout was built in 0 Gauge.

Further explanation… On the distal end of the layout, away from the wall when set up, the leg support is hinged so that it will fold flat against the underside of the layout when raised. There was a preventer chain attached to the legs to prevent excess travel from the vertical when lowered.

I never thought much about this as I was growing up, it was just there, but as I try to describe it, I am really impressed at the craftsmanship and ingenuity displayed by my Dad. Thanks, Dad. Better late than never.

Jose,

My primary computer is in the shop (as in dead) so I am limping along on my Netbook(yeah, there’s an antique). So let me see if I can adequately explain my solution.

First, using your wall mounted idea, go with that for a start. Hinge mounted on the wall with sufficient clearance to allow track etc. to fit between the top of the table and the wall.

Now, add a second cross brace as you already have shown in the middle (approximately) and cut the table into two pieces. Add a second hinge on the bottom of the cross braces so the outer portion of the table can now be hinged 180 degrees down. This will have the track etc. on that portion facing the same direction as the wall. If you adjust the lengths enough, you might be able to allow the end of the second table to sit on the floor supporting the inner section with little no requirement for catches to hold the table vertical to the wall.

Hope I got my idea across.

Bob C.