Large Scale Central

I want to convert a GP30 to be battery and track powered, how?

I have a USAT GP30 that I want to put a Revo in. I already have the Revo set and a battery. I also want to be able to flip a switch and have this engine run off track power. Is there any wiring diagrams floating round that I can use to simplify this install?

Another question. The Revo has the generic diesel sound but I have a phoenix card I was planning on installing. Can the phoenix be used when the engine is turned to battery power and when it is flipped to run off the track power?
Will I use the Revo sound on battery power and the phoenix on track power?

How does that work and is there a wiring diagram?


Not exactly the diagram you are looking for as it is for a trail car set up, but this might help…

I was using RailBoss at the time, but if you want to keep the Phoenix for sound, just don’t connect it’s sound outputs and use the Phoenix card. At the top right corner, I believe that is the 2K2 battery input connections, not the actual battery.

The ball bearing wheels are the track power pick-ups.

A complicated set of questions, but I can point out that the Revo has a speaker connection, as does the Phoenix. If you’d rather have the Phoenix sound in either mode, then don’t plug the speaker in to the Revo!
A more flexible option might be to have DPDT switch to select which board gets to the speaker.

P.S. I posted photos of my Revo install in a tender.

That is a nice write up Peter T but I’m still a bit confused.
Why did you use 2 DPDT switches?
If I use the Phoenix for both I will have to have power from the rails and the Revo/battery going through a switch.

A diagram would really help.

I have done a couple of Revo installs, one to a RS3 and the other a Shay that uses a Phoenix for sound but both use batteries.

One is on/off/charge (Center off) connecting the charger socket to the battery and disconnecting all the electronics. It’s the input side of the throttle.

The other is a track/battery switch. As I have track pickups on the tender, I use them as an option. This switch is the output side of the throttle.

Let me dig out a wiring diagram . .

Your wish is my every command.

Thank you.
That is a good diagram and I’m beginning to wrap my brain round it but how does the sound card fit in?

The Revo I drew has sound on it, as will many DCC decoders. A speaker wire will be needed!

For an external sound card, like a Phoenix or Mylocosound, you just connect them to the battery feed going to the “In from Battery” terminals. Then you will have chuff triggers, bells, etc., all of which will be separately wired per the sound card instructions. You may want to connect the “Out to Motor” terminals to the sound card, as some ‘chuff’ based on the voltage to the motor.

Look at my diagram again. It shows how to connect the sound card to power or battery. Just don’t use the sound output from the Revo.

I’m back at this project and still trying to get my head around it.
The diagram that PeterT posted makes sense but where does the Phoenix sound card fit in? Can I wire it in so it can be used from the voltage of the track power AND when the battery power switch is thrown it can be used through the Revo ?

OR would it be used exclusively through the track power voltage and then when the GP30 is switched to battery power the Revo is being used for control and sound?

It would be nice to be able to use the Phoenix with the track power voltage AND when switched over, the battery Revo setup.
Is that even possible?


Todd, in my diagram the entire battery+revo system is isolated when you switch to track power.

If you prefer Phoenix, then don’t connect a speaker to the Revo - use the Phoenix speaker connections. Connect the sound card to the motor feed top right, and follow their instructions for running the Phoenix on track power. (Revo output and track power are both variable DC, so it can’t tell the difference, in theory.)
It will need a ‘keep alive’ battery for when the motor is receiving low voltage - they used to supply a PSI lead-acid but those only last a few years.

Todd, if you don’t want to roll your own you can get a pre-built kit from RLD Hobbies for USA trains.

Good luck,

Yes. Refer again to my drawing above. It uses the Phoenix in both situations.

That is neat Mark but it is showing out of stock.

Okay I think I finally understand.
I was thinking that the Phoenix would be hooked to the battery/Revo OR the voltage coming from the track BUT you are saying to hook it to the other side of the boards to the wires that are heading to the motors.
That makes sense because then it will be used by both power options depending on which way the switch is thrown.

The Mik is on now so when that wraps up I will be finally be able to tear into this project.

Thanks so much.

Now that the Mik is over this is my next challenge.
Wish me luck I am going in! :grin:

The project has stalled and I need some help.

I followed the diagram that Peter T posted, tried the track power, nothing, tried the Revo and nothing. The engine didn’t work. I traced all the wires and everything is where it should be.

My question is: Right now I have the wires that go to the motor going back to the board to activate the lights etc… Should these have gone directly to the motors and if so how do all the lights function?

I realize that there are several ways to do what you want to do and the cost can be less, I guess. My personal thought is go with one system and be done with it and it can be used on all my engines with just a push of the button, or flip of the switch. Rail Pro comes to mind.

Thanks for replying John. I have it all set up with Revo. I just checked all the wires again and connected the output from the Revo to one motor and it worked. I didn’t try flipping the switches to make it run on track power but it should work as well.
The problem is this is bypassing the USAT board so none of the lights will work.
I’m trying to go from my track power/ Revo battery switches back into the board.
Is this even possible?

Great news! I found a plug on the USAT board that was wired backwards so when I connected my plug to the stock plug it was actually reversing the polarity and causing a short.
It only took 3 times of going over the wires one by one to find this.
Now to add the sound, paint the body and get it back together.