Large Scale Central

I started "aging" a Ro boxcar today

Modeling
#1

I disassembled a used Charles Ro (?) boxcar I bought to convert it to an older style unit, closer to the 1860’s I plan to model.

I began by cutting off the cylinder on the frame, there are some other lines and levers I’m not too sure if they should stay. I also cut off the strap steps, they looked bad anyway.

There are it some period photos, what appear to be wooden ladders I’ll build for the ends of the cars with a single grab bar on the roof above them and a step at the brake wheel. The walk on the roof looks to be simply one or two boards laid flat. I’ll leave the hatches on the ends alone, but want to add wood framing on the side doors, and a long step bar under the side door openings.

What type of filler is good to use to fill in unwanted holes in the plastic? I’m guessing regular Bondo auto body filler would work.

#2

Bondo would be my guess.

If I remember correctly, the Charles Ro boxcars were the beginnings of USA Trains.

#3

David,
when filling holes, I like to use Evergreen styrene rod (0.100" or 0.125") . I usually drill out the existing hole (if too large to fill with Squadron Putty) and glue a short length of the styrene rod, flush with the surface. If the rod overlaps a groove in the planking then the end of the rod is easily grooved. A thin smear of Squadron Putty then completes the job giving an invisible repair. The Squadron Putty is a filler designed specifically for modelmaking and is finer in particle size than auto body filler (bondo). A tube will last for years. I use the green colour filler, but I believe that other colours are available. The early (1860’s) standard gauge boxcars were relatively small. The end hatches, if in the end walls (and not the roof), are for loading overlength items, such as timber, pipes etc. On cattle cars they were used as hay-loading doors.

#4

I remembered a product I had here to try filling the extra holes in the boxcar. I used PC-7 putty epoxy.

It a two part epoxy putty, sticky to work with, but after it is pressed into the holes, you can wet your finger and tools with denatured alcohol and smooth out the putty and clean up the excess even in the wood grain. It has an open time of about one hour and cures 100% overnight.

I’ll post the final results tomorrow.

#5

I use either epoxy putty or styrene rods as Tim does, though I don’t bother with the Squadron putty, I just glue in place with solvent cement then sand flush. I’ll have to try the denatured alcohol trick for a smoother finish on the putty.

BTW, I’ve found that early railroad cars were surprisingly sparse when it came to grab irons and other bits. It’s hard to believe how the early brakemen actually climbed on these cars. Gives you a good appreciation for what they did.

Later,

K

#6

End hatch rails removed and frame added, holes for hand rails filled, side doors trimmed in wood, cat walks removed, air cylinder cut off so far. Next; ladders built, single board cat walk, hand rails on roof, side door stops.

(http://www.lscdata.com/users/lastmanout/_forumfiles/Boxcar.jpg)

#7

David,
have you seen this site -

http://www.smrtrains.com/boxcars5.htm

#8

David, interesting collection of styles.

(http://www.lscdata.com/users/tim_brien/_forumfiles/lscboxcars.jpg)

#9
Tim Brien said:
David, have you seen this site -

http://www.smrtrains.com/boxcars5.htm


Didn’t see that before, Tim. Thanks very much for that. It’ is exactly what I am trying to do.

#10

David,
what is evident is the prominent wooden end sills, wooden trucks and the braking on one truck only. Another photograph I found had a circular brake wheel attached to the end wall and not the ‘traditional’ rooftop mounted wheel, plus diagonal strap bracing from the car endwall down to the endsill beam. Suprising is the lack of trussrods for a ‘up to 32 foot car’. The narrow gauge cars are a good start, due the relatively small size of early standard-gauge equipment. Cars were sourced from everywhere and so many styles would be acceptable.

#11

All prepped and ready for primer. New ladders, step under hand brake, roof walk built. Repair on corner of roof (don’t ask), hand brake rod cut away from the wall. All air lines and brake mechanism removed underneath. This should take it back to about about 60 years before it was made, or close enough.

(http://www.lscdata.com/users/lastmanout/_forumfiles/BoxCar_46%20.jpg)

#12

David,
definately progreess being made. While timber strips for woodwork does give the desired effect, I prefer Evergreen styrene strips. Even when I do use timber, say for catwalks on coaches, I do sand and prep the timber so that when primered and painted, it looks like styrene. That is just my preference. The Civil War period is definately a narrow, more defined perspective in modelling, but it does have the advantage of ruling out impulse emotional purchases.

#13

I’ve heard the term “rubber modeling”, which is what I suppose I have going on here. With a 1:20.3 standard scale 4-4-0 coming soon, on 1 gauge track, this 1:24th car and the Conductor’s Car I made at 1:20.3, this really is going to be rubbery.

My family will not know the difference and my friends won’t criticize me, much.

#14

David, the 4-4-0 is narrow gauge, so it’s properly scaled at 1:20.3 on ga. 1 track. The fact that narrow gauge lines were almost non-existent in the civil war period is more up the line of “rubber modeling” than an discrepancy between the scale of the starting points of your models.

The car looks good. Can’t wait to see it painted.

Later,

K

#15

Yeah, that’s my concern (?) IIRC the USMRR ran on mostly standard gauge track and the South used some track up to 60", while some of the West was a narrower gauge. I am hoping that with a 1:20.3 engine, the cars I have started fit in with whole scheme.

#16

I have the box car in the base paint. Now I want to try my hand at adding weathering, details and the USMRR lettering.

(http://www.lscdata.com/users/lastmanout/_forumfiles/BoxCar049.jpg)

(http://www.lscdata.com/users/lastmanout/_forumfiles/BoxCar053%20.jpg)

#17

David,
you have certainly disguised the origins of the donor car. This car will definately fit in well with your modelling era . Next time possibly modify the end sill beams by making them more pronounced (thicker). A study of many early boxcars had more prominent sill beams, much as if the beams were added to the end of the car, rather than being a recessed part of it. Another mod might be to disguise the archbar trucks, giving a more early wooden beam appearance.

#18

I noticed that in the old pics. To add the end beam, I ran into the corner plates, new bolts and the brake mechanism top and bottom. The bottom step and a strap below, not yet added, I thought would suffice. My next unit will likely be scratch built to closely match this one. I’ll use that tip then.