Large Scale Central

I need to bounce an Idea

General Discussion
#1

Guys,
I’m building a turntable roughly 52" in diameter, the main table is using a low profile lazy susan bearing and plate using a 2x6 as the deck.

my question is how to lock each lead track to the deck without alot of mechanical stuff involved for the locking mechanism, ya know the more complicated the easier to have something fail.

I thought about using magnets on either end of the deck and at the mouths of each lead track. would this idea work?

I’m open to suggestions and/or pics of your turntables.

the layout is elevated, can handle Live Steam, Battery Power and Electric Locomotives. to power the rails on the deck I’m using a set of soft brushes that contact the rails on the inner and outer rail of one side of the deck and everything around the deck will be powered.

Thanks in Advance Guys.

#2

Shawn,
Are you looking for something manual/mechanical or something electric/electronic?
How are you intending to index track power or is that an issue?
For manual movement/track power a simple slide will align the tracks and connect the power.
Later
Rick

#3

Shawn,

If the edge of the 2X6 is going to be easily accessible, just use a small barrel bolt with holes in the pit wall. Position the table at the location desired, drill a hole to match the barrel bolt, THEN lay the track up to the table. Should produce good alignment each time, provided the track on the table is EXACTLY in the center.

Bob C.

#4

Rick, I’m looking for something Manual.

To Index power on the deck I’m thinking about using small metal wipers attached one side on one rail and the other wiper on the opposite side and rail, of course this means the table can turn only one direction, which I can live with.

Bob, that’s a good idea on using a small bolt in the pit wall and side of deck. I hadnt thought of using something like that.

#5

Shawn,
On my TT, I just used a hardwood block about 2 inches long and wide enough to fit between the rails and about 1/4 inch thick, with a 1/2 inch finger hole in the center. I bolted brass angle iron on each side so that it stuck out about 1/2 inch beyond the block then jumper wired these to the track. The block/brass angle slides tightly between the rails. I swing the turn table around slide out the block and the extended angles lock the table rails solid to the approch/exit track and the power is automatic.

Now that is strictly for a turn around table. I think the same approch could be used on a table that feeds a round house or storage tracks
by haveing similar slides on each end.

As a follow-up if you use this method use styrene or some other inert material instead of wood. Wood expands and contracts with moisture, and can cause troubles. Mine now is made of styrene.
Later
Rick.

#6

Shawn,
you might consider cupboard “lockers”. there is a kind, that has on one side a sprung metal-ball, that sticks out about a third of its diameter. on the other side is just a hole, where the ball can fit in.
using one ball and one hole for each siding, could work.

#7

Korm that’s another good idea. Rick’s idea pretty closely matches how the prototype does it.

#8
Jon Radder said:
Korm that's another good idea. Rick's idea pretty closely matches how the prototype does it.
Yea, That's how I got the idea a few years ago while riding the turntable at Dunsmuir, CA. The operator just threw a lever and the forks would slide out and lock to the rails, all manual. The turntable itself is electric motor driven. One of the last turntables in the country that is used almost daily, at least at the last I heard. Rick
#9

These are some really great ideas guys, we are in the beginnings of another large winter storm and I am planning on working on the table some today after the cottage gets a little warmer.

#10

The EBT uses an “H” shaped piece of steel that lays around the rail on the table and the rail from the stub track with the cross bar of the “H” in the gap between the rails.

#11
Ric Golding said:
The EBT uses an "H" shaped piece of steel that lays around the rail on the table and the rail from the stub track with the cross bar of the "H" in the gap between the rails.
That's actually what I was thinking of when I commented on Rick's idea. Didn't realize it was different until he replied again.