Tim - address again, please…email box self-emptied. grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr.
tac
www.ovgrs.org
sent, thanks
Hey Tac
were you able to locate the article in the “Klambake” GR magazine?
Thanks
Not yet - but your headlight lenses are on their way!!!
We got bulbs too, if you need 'em - anybody?
Best
tac
www.ovgrs.org
ok…thanks TAC
Dear All,
As close as I could find in the mrmag (old Kalmbach) index:
LGB 1:22.5 scale, Sumpter Valley 2-6-6-2
Garden Railways, February 1999 page 114
( 2-6-6-2, ARTICULATED, LGB, NARROWGAUGE, REVIEW, STEAM, SV, ENGINE, LOCOMOTIVE, GDN )
Uintah No. 52
Garden Railways, March 1986 page 24
( 0-6-6-0T, AMERICANIZE, LGB, “PALLOW, JIM”, STEAM, TANKENGINE, UINTAH, ENGINE, LOCOMOTIVE, GDN )
The index has gotten behind in updating to newer issues, though.
Joe Satnik
Watched one of the Sumpter Valley models with tender run Monday on Mike Kidman’s layout at Kidman’s Tree Farm in Iowa. That is a beautiful piece of equipment and pulls like a horse. I use a Unitah on the inside/track powered portion of our railroad. Never having learned the secret decoder ring numbers of the LGB equipment, which one is 2085 D?
Having just looked at page 1, I think I just answered my own question with neither. Never mind.
TAC… got them! Thanks so very much!
timmyd
Now… if I could just figure our how to remove the cab…
So I have a question about this locomotive - how is it around LGB’s smallest-radius track? I see two of these on eBay and they’re very intriguing, but I have tight radii track around the dining room and I don’t want to buy something this heavy that’ll conk people on the noggin when it can’t negotiate the curves.
Thanks!
No issues at all. I believe all LGB locos and cars are designed to manuever their smallest radius curves.
I am watching one of these on eBay - does anyone know if it’ll run well on the small-radius LGB track curves? I’ve found some locos don’t have trouble with these curves but then have great difficulty navigating the small-radius switches - that “back and forth” does 'em in.
It will navigate the R1 curve just fine, but you nailed it on the “back and forth”…That causes trouble!!! “Runs well” is a matter of opinion, I find most LGB engines will handle R1 switches but from my experience this is not one of them (Oddly enough, niether is the much smaller wheel-based Forney).
Mine negotiates the the R1 switches just fine. My complaint about this unit is that I really have to baby it period to get it to run at all. It is typically very jerky and most times just simply stops running. Me thinks it’s time to have TOC take a look at it.
Tim,
generally the Mallett drive was very reliable and forgiving of track as it has many power pickups. The pickups were prone to contamination and require you to clean the back of the driving wheels on a regular basis. If your inside wheel faces are clean, then I would check each wheel individually for power pickup as you may have an open circuit at several carbon brush pickups, if the loco repeatedly shuts down.
I once purchased a mint LGB Alco diesel #2055 on eBay. The loco looked brand new. I ran it and it was perfect, until the first switch frog. The loco stopped dead. I thought with four sliders and twelve wheel pickups, how could the loco stall on a frog. I checked the power pickups and only one wheel was picking up power. Someone had tampered with the drive blocks and not assembled them correctly when installing the lower drive block cover. I installed the covers correctly and the loco had pickup on all wheels and sliders.Train-LI has the silver lens cover in stock. Call them for parts availability, or better yet e-mail them with the model and part you need.
train-li-usa.com is the web site for further information…
For more reliable operation, you might rub a very small amount of Dexron III automobile transmission fluid on the treads and backs of the wheels. It seems to clean and lubricate them, doesn’t cause sticky oil buildup, and improve electrical conductivity. I don’t know why or how, but it works for me!
I also have an original design 2085D with three wire trucks. Does anyone have a cheat sheet on what I have to do to try and convert these to a four wire setup to install an emotion XL?
I’ve got a spare one of these locomotives and a sound car that have become shelf queens. I’d like to make some room in my shop, so if you’re interested in them, let me know.
If I can find a buyer within about 100 miles of Sacramento, CA, we can avoid shipping – this puppy IS heavy.