Large Scale Central

How'm I gonna do this?

Modeling Motive Power
#1

I have an Aristo Santa Fe FA-1 sitting in the shop, serviceable, awaiting a new paint job. What I want to do is give it the as-delivered scheme of the Spokane Portland & Seattle diesels. Below are some FA-1’s, followed by a F unit, to give you the idea of what they looked like. OK, I tried to get the F unit to follow the FA’s, but Bob’s software wouldn’t let me do that, no matter how I tried to outsmart it.

My question is, what is the best way to get the curved demarcation between the green and yellow on the nose to be even on both sides, so it won’t look like a 7 year old did the paint job?

Stan will provide the decals, I just have to pull the trigger on that.

As delivered, the rooftops were green, the maroon that is commonly seen on the roof came later. The yellow numbers on the sides were not in the as delivered scheme, either, but I couldn’t find any photos of locomotives that early. I’m sure they (the photos)exist, I just couldn’t find them.

#2

To make identical sides , draw the shape of one side on a piece of masking film .

Mark front centre line .

Fold film along centre line .

From here you are on your own because you can either hold the fold accurately with masking tape and then cut round the marked shape , giving two similar halves joined at the centre . Or cut out the single side and tape it down onto another piece of masking film then cut round it . You may have to do this if the masking film is thick (like me) .

I think you get the picture Steve , it’s then up to you to spray it .

The above may seem obvious but it does actually work . I did a Soo Line F series in Red over White for someone the first time I tried it , I was quite chuffed with it , so was the bloke I did it for . Which was just as well because he had provided the loco . I would have hated to ruin it .

Mike

#3

Steve,

Rockwall Canyon Jeff will cut a vinyl stencil (low tack) for you to do the curve. Maybe a mask for the whole front yellow in one piece. I would think you could leave the standout areas( headlight and is that a MU connection ) open and just tape over those. Others may do these but Rockwall has stated on here that he dos and he did some vinyl numbers for my build.

And don’t think that striping half loop will be that easy either.

#4

Steve Featherkile said:

I have an Aristo Santa Fe FA-1. . .

My question is, what is the best way to get the curved demarcation between the green and yellow on the nose to be even on both sides, so it won’t look like a 7 year old did the paint job?

. .

Steve,

My approach would be to use my MS Visio drawing program to draw out the curved nose paint line. Visio (and most such programs) lets you copy and flip/mirror a section of the image, so I’d draw one side then copy and mirror it to get the two sides.

I’d print it on thin paper and cut out the center piece with the curves for a trial fit. (Then I’d do it all over again a few times until I was satisfied with the drawing.)

When I finally got it the way I wanted, I would take my 2" blue painters tape (masking tape) and stick some to a glass surface. Then, using the cut-out center curve section (see above) I’d mark the tape with the curves, and cut the lines with a knife.

Then I’d carefully peel the tape off the glass and put it on the loco’s nose after I sprayed the green. With regular tape I’d mask off the rest of the green and spray the yellow.

NB: While typing this, a couple of options occurred to me.

  • big package labels from your local office store can be printed and then cut out and peeled off the backing. Masking tape might handle the compound curves better than sticky paper?

  • boat names (the funny name you see on the transom/back of a boat,) are produced by printing on sticky vinyl using a printer that cuts. If you took the drawing to a boat name shop [or possibly any sign shop] they could cut it out on their printer. The vinyl is quite flexible so it would work better than paper b\labels.

#5

Yea, I was thinking of some kind of mask. Paint the thing yellow, put the mask on the locomotive and paint the darker colour over the yellow and the mask.

#6

I think micro scale or any other decal company might make the nose decal scheme in smaller scales. Find one and up scale it on a printer for a rough copy. Fold in half, and trim up. Now you have a mask for painting. Start with the yellow, mask off, and repaint the final color.

#7

You are all assuming that the basic model is accurate . It’s no good making a mask on clever machines if the loco won’t fit it . Same goes for scaling up decals .

Cutting masking tape to shape on glass is fraught with problems when you try lifting it ; it distorts .

I spend most of my time when model making on producing satisfactory paint schemes and when you get to be an expert at masking model tanks and aircraft with all the compound shapes , you realise that the simple approach is best . Even with all the smart machines , the decal companies cannot produce accurate masking for models----they base the mask on the most popular model----which may not be the one you are making .

And bear in mind that the blokes who painted the real locos used chalk and string . The technique was to measure from known places like the corner of a headlamp , the bottom of the windscreen etc. , and I would do exactly the same on a model . It works .

Mike

#8

David Maynard said:

Yea, I was thinking of some kind of mask. Paint the thing yellow, put the mask on the locomotive and paint the darker colour over the yellow and the mask.

That’s how the 1:1 guys would do it today.

#9

Dave Marconi, Stan has already solved that problem (the striping half loop) with a decal. I’ve seen the proofs, and they fit. The problem will be to transfer them to the loco without FUBARing them.

I’ll get in touch with Rockwell Canyon Jeff and see what he can do.

I wonder if Dell Taparro might be able to help, I’ll shoot him an email, too. He does paint masks for lettering, this might be a challenge he can’t resist.

I was thinking about getting some striping tape from the auto paint shop and wrapping it around the light to form the edge, then build up from there, give it a shot of clear to seal it, then some color. Shoot the yellow first, wait several days, then shoot the green.

I like the idea of the masks. More elegant.

I have seen a simpler design in the early paint jobs, starting at the weld line at mid headlight box, swooping down to join the curve as it goes down towards the trucks and bottom of the access ladder. That would be much easier to do, and at this late date, who’s gonna know, especially at SP&S actually had some like that.

#10

I wonder if the SP&S Historical society, or some other type of organization has paint scheme information on file. That would give you the information that Mike is suggesting… A grid pattern that shows the radius of each curve, and the placement.

#11

I’d paint the nose yellow and use the decals for the dark color to set the locations. Start back at the doors…

#12

Steve , paint the yellow . Use 1/8" pinstripe tape to make the leading edge of the mask . Take measurements from points of the nose that are the same like the marker lites and numberboards etc . The tape is capable of curving easily .Then you can use a wider tape and paper to finish the mask. That’s what works for me.

#13

I would caution care using pinstripe for masking if it’s the pinstripe I use on models .

It is not masking stripe , and has a high “grab” aspect which , when you pull it off pulls the base paint off as well . It is also a pig to get a smooth line with it if you do anything other than a dead straight line , it kinks very easily . Even pinstripe masking tape is difficult when trying for a smooth curve , I do not use it any more , preferring the large mask idea .

The large single mask works , it guarantees symmetry and is far easier to do than any other method I’ve used or tried .

I’ve lost the packing for the stuff I use , but I think it’s called Frisk Film . Use of a hair drier on low setting helps with forming it over the nose , but is not essential .

Mike

#14

Mike , the stuff I use is not high grab pinstripe tape. The tape I use is not intended to be used as the “finished” stripe. I’ve done many locomotives using this stuff and have had no problems . Make sure you clean the model surface real good before painting the model so the paint adheres as it should and you’ll have no problems. As far as making bends , the 1/8 th inch tape goes around curves good. If you have to use a razor to slit it here and there . I’m sure that your method works too . That’s just how I’ve been doing it for years.

#15

OR - Just throw money at it and ship it off to Shawmut Car Shops!

#16

Jon Radder said:

OR - Just throw money at it and ship it off to Shawmut Car Shops!

Yeah, thought about that, but where’s the fun?

#17

Steve, the answer to your question is: very, very carefully… :slight_smile:

glad I could help…

#18

“Where’s the fun in that?” Well, the kind of fun you get from painting your own locomotive is called “frustration and disappointment” by most folks. If you have the loco professionally painted, you will have a lifetime of fun and enjoyment looking at it, and your friends will be green with envy. Let’s face it, that’s the most important thing in any hobby; to have people admire your stuff, but secretly hate the fact that you have it and they don’t!

#19

Ah , But , Andrew , generally speaking , if you introduce the model with the words “I did this” and a pleading look on your face , it will seldom be criticised .

However , though I agree with most of what you said , if you do not try to do these things yourself you are admitting the inability to do it , whereas if you try , you may find you can do it .

If you fail when trying , you at least have the compensation of being one of the select band of those who push their own frontiers .

You will also have an acceptable reason to give to whoever wants to know , "Why are you wasting your money on that? " , frequently in a shrill voice .

I would heartily recommend to Steve that he gives it a go , after all , model paint stripper can recover most situations .

Mike

#20

It doesn’t look like a real hard to do paint job . If it was mine i’d paint the side and top stripes when I painted the nose yellow. Then stripe it and use vinyl letters to spell out the name on the side. That way all the yellow will be the same shade of yellow . I can almost guarantee the decals will be a different shade than the paint. I did a couple of TTX gondolas last year and the decals were a different shade , close but noticeable. You can doooo it !!!