Large Scale Central

How to make manual LGB switch more springy?

Track and Trestles
#1

I have a loop to loop reverse loop setup for my Christmas display. The switches are set so that the train always enters and exits the loop the same way. Upon exiting the train pushes the points of the manual LGB switch to the right direction. Once the train passes the switch springs back to the entry direction. This has worked great for years but now the switches are not quite as responsive and may not spring back all the way to the entry position. Is there a way that I can add more spring tension to the switch?

cheers

timmyd

#2

If there is no switch machine attached to the switches, won’t the engine weight just move the points over??? I don’t see where this would not work, unless you absolutely needed the train to run exactly in the same direction… I’m assuming that your running battery…

#3

There indeed is a switch machine attached. As I stated, I am using a manual LGB switch. I am not running batteries I am running track power.

#4

Dear Tim,

I’m just thinking out loud here, so anyone else with practical experience supersedes me.

Are the points and/or the throw-bar gummed up or dragging on something?

Try taking the manual throw mechanism off and filing/cleaning/lubing the moving parts until they operate smoothly.

I’m not sure what lube to use. Perhaps graphite? (Perhaps not, carpet stains? Dunno.)

Hope this helps.

Sincerely,

Joe Satnik

Edit: Remove redundant “works”

#5

I can certainly check and try that. What I am looking for is a way to beef up the spring back. I recall seeing this somewhere before.

#6

if that turnout is not in plain view, the easiest way is a rubberband.
(i had a loop turnout working for some years that way)

another thing, you might try:
change the manual switchmashine to the other side of the turnout.
i found, that they work better in one direction, than in the other.

#7

they both are not in plain view. Can you please elaborate on the rubber band technique?

#8

i think, these more tha thousand words should explain the idea.

(http://kormsen.info/tracks/gummiswitch.JPG)

#9

ahahahaha… ok… got it… Don’t think my wife would be happy with me nailing through the living room floor.

#10
timmyd said:
Don't think my wife would be happy with me nailing through the living room floor.
Ahhhh...come on' live a little it is the holiday season ya' know! ;)
#11

timmyd said:
ahahahaha… ok… got it… Don’t think my wife would be happy with me nailing through the living room floor.

oh… you got one of those, who are never content with men’s hobbies? in that case i recommend a high tec solution:

(http://kormsen.info/tracks/gummiswitch2.JPG)

#12

I did the rubber band trick but a little differently. I came around from the other side, under the track and around one of the ties. It works slick (as long as the rubber band doesn’t break).

I recall seeing somewhere a method where you can use a Safety Pin for this.

#13

“I recall seeing somewhere a method where you can use a Safety Pin for this.”

I believe Tom Ruby has the “safety pin” solution.

#14

No, Sir!
the safety pin works different.
while the rubberband draws the turnout-tongue back to where it was, after it was “cut open” by a train, the safety pin just constantly presses the tongue to the side, where the wheels shoved it.

#15

I’ve had the same problem. After taking it apart I found it full of dirt. After cleaning it very well it worked much better. If you chooes to lube it I recommend using Kadee Greas’em graphite.

#16

I did a quick solution for mine outside when I wanted a quick “repair.” I used a can of air from the computers and blew them out. Then I sprayed them with WD-40. I figured I’d have to go back and do them right but they work fine after a year.

If you use WD-40 keep it away from the track!