Large Scale Central

How To Install A Smoke Generator

I have the Raritan River 0-6-0 that I would like to add smoke to. Someone told me to get a generator from Aristocraft and it will go right in. True. But I also want it to work. OK, the first picture shows the space inside the boiler I have to work with.

![](http://freightsheds.largescalecentral.com/users/rrrr4/Raritan River 0-6-0/Innards.JPG)

There is a small flat spot on the bottom. Picture #2 shows an LGB generator next to the actual smokestack. They are the same size! Arrgggh! The second generator is from a Bachmann 4-6-0 that got destroyed in Hurricane Sandy. The third if the Aristocraft which says it is for SD-45, but Navin said it is the same one as in the Pacific.


Now, the question I have for the best minds at Muppet Labs is: Which one do I use and how do I install it? Thanks, Lou

Lou,

There is no second picture.

Huh! Last night before bed it was there, this morning, gone!
OK, I edited and added the second picture back of the 3 smoke generators I have.
Comments?

I used the SD-45 / Pacific etc. smoke generator in a Bach 10 Wheeler by attaching a tube ground down from a Papermate pen into the hole on the smoke generator and going up the stack. I might have pictures.

The Bachman generator isn’t worth the trouble in my opinion.

How did you fasten it inside the boiler?

Hot Glue I think. I need to find the pictures. It was at least 5 years ago. Loco has been out of service almost that long.

Lou,

So far I have installed the sd-45 smoke unit in an aristo 0-4-0 and a lionel atlantic. I made a bracket to hold the smoke unit from below out of styrene and then I did as John said and use a tube through the smoke stack into the hole in the top of the smoke unit. I do not glue them in as I like the ability to easily remove and replace when the smoke unit dies.

When I get a chance I will post some pictures.

Nico

Lou Luczu said:

Now, the question I have for the best minds at Muppet Labs is: Which one do I use and how do I install it? Thanks, Lou

Dont use any of them and get a live steamer. Alot easier… :wink:

Found the pics. SD-45 smoke unit in an Annie…

(http://lsc.cvsry.com/Post3/AnnieSmoke-01.JPG)

(http://lsc.cvsry.com/Post3/AnnieSmoke-02.JPG)

(http://lsc.cvsry.com/Post3/AnnieSmoke-03.JPG)

(http://lsc.cvsry.com/Post3/AnnieSmoke-04.JPG)

Thanks, Jon.

Heading to the basement to study the wiring diagram once more so I can put an on/off switch in the tender.

I’m surprised you used hot glue to hold a smoke unit in place. They can get pretty warm and I would think the heat and the solvent action of the fluid would loosen the mounting.

Greg

Greg Elmassian said:

I’m surprised you used hot glue to hold a smoke unit in place. They can get pretty warm and I would think the heat and the solvent action of the fluid would loosen the mounting.

Greg

I don’t think the outside case gets that warm. As far as I know it was never a problem. This loco has been out of service for a long time and I don’t run smoke anymore so you might be right.

Sorry, for some reason I was thinking he was going to do the “direct drive” setup, where the generator is run much harder than using the internal electronics. My bad.

THAT does get plenty warm, I can tell you. This technique normally runs the heating element at almost double the normal voltage.

The Aristo units eventually fail, and usually in spectacular fashion, where the smoke fluid expands the rubber plugs in the ends of the electrolytic caps on the board, and rips them from the board.

The tipoff is the fan usually goes “supersonic” as the voltage regulation has failed. Then you get spectacular smoke until something melts, often the boiler.

As always, paying attention to the operation usually will warn you in advance before damage to the loco occurs.

Regards, Greg

Got the wiring to track power done. I used silicone sealer to hold the generator in place. That way if I need to replace it, I can just cut through the silicone, and heat should not bother it.

I isolated the motor and heater element in my Aristo unit and used a Zimo decoder to control the heater and fan for more realistic smoke.

I have a wisp when stopped, and heavy smoke when accelerating, and steam engines puff the smoke with the chuff sound.

Nice pictures, Jon. Good instructions and great looking install.

I need to post pictures of the finished product. It works on the test track, but I haven’t had enough time to set up an outdoor run. I used silicone sealer to hold the unit in place, I can always cut that free.