I am trying to get some newly applied decals to snug down over rivets of my new loco. I have tried using SOLVASET which does seem to help but not completely.
Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Thanks
Take a needle, and poke each rivet thereby letting the air bubble out which I suspect is there, and then re smooth your decal down again!! This worked for me and was discussed on another forum where the poster tried my suggestion and it worked for them, and myself! Regal
I really like the product by Badger Modelflex called decal softening solution.
You apply it after the decal dries for a while. Then you can keep applying it maybe every hour or so until the decal snugs up. I don’t know how I could have done some decaling without this stuff.
Although the product I mention is pretty much the same as Solvaset. But if Solvaset doesn’t work for you, then maybe the decal isn’t very flexible.
I start with brushing Solvaset on the area where I’m going to apply the decal. I do this right before I put the decal in place. Then I put the decal just above the spot where I’m going to apply it, hold one end of the decal with my finger, then gently slide the backing paper away, letting the decal contact the surface as I go. This minimizes air getting trapped underneath because the Solvaset joins with the water on the bottom of the decal, and as it dries, snugs things down over the rivets. Then, I’ll follow up with more Solvaset on top of the decal around the rivets.
Later,
K
Ok… cool! So it’s ok to continue to apply the Solvaset after the decal has dried. I assume it should be applied a little bit at a time?
I do one side at a time.
You want the decal flat, not upright.
Lay the car/loco on its side so the solution doesn’t run down the model.
Apply liberally and let it dry.
Poke a needle in the airholes.
You will need powerful modeling magnifying glasses and a very fine needle.
I use Microscale for applying decals over smooth surfaces. For highly irregular surfaces (rivets), I use Microscale ‘Micro Sol’ decal setting solution. This is a higher concentration than the ‘normal’ strength Microscale and designed specifically for rivets, etc. Its use should be minimised as it does wrinkle/soften the decal and must be treated with care and caution. Directions state that should an air bubble remain, then the bubble must be pricked and more setting solution applied.
One thing to add…not sure what the decals are but if they are vinyl then a heat gun or blowdryer will snug them up tight. Otherwise as suggested.
My first attempt at decaling I used a liquid floor polish to gloss the area, then allowed the area to dry overnight. I then applied a thin coat of the polish on the area just before applying the decal. I “patted” the fresh decal smooth with a soft bristled disposable flux-brush.
The next day, after the decal dried, I scored the wood joint lines with a new #11 X-Acto hobby knife and applied another thin coat of the polish to settle the decal into the grooves. After everything dried, I sprayed with a matt clear.
I have only a very small area of ‘silvering’ where I forgot to pat the area down with the brush after application. I have only done 5 cars and the locomotive so far, but the results are good.
I was able to poke small holes in the decal where it was refusing to lay down snug over the rivets and applied the Solvaset a number of times. It didn’t work quite as good as I had hoped for but is acceptible. I am now going to work on the other side.
timmyd said:Try rolling a Q-Tip from the middle of the decal out to the sides. It'll soak up the moisture and push the bubbles out from under the decal .
I was able to poke small holes in the decal where it was refusing to lay down snug over the rivets and applied the Solvaset a number of times. It didn't work quite as good as I had hoped for but is acceptible. I am now going to work on the other side.
How long should the decal sit in the water prior to trying to take it off? I have just destroyed 3 decals and am down to my last one so I NEED to get this one right!
Hi Timmy
I usually only leave the decal in for 10-15 seconds or so, then let it sit for a minute or so such the moisture wicks up through the backing paper to loosen it. I find this much better than having the decal slide off in the water. You can tell when the decal is ready when it is fully wet through. As per Tim’s suggestion, I use MicroSol and MicroSet to get the decals snug, and always apply them to a gloss surface. Brush on some MicroSet before applying the decal, then slide the decal off using Kevin’s technique, pat it down gently then apply MicroSol and don’t touch for an hour or so. Any bubbles or problem areas, prick with a bubble then reapply MicroSol. When all is dry, hit it with some Dulcote or flat finish and its all good.
Cheers
Tony
hmmmmm… perhaps my decals are old as none of this is working…