A while back there was some talk about making own track. I posted about someone who has done it. I finally found the site. I got it from G scale central, here it is
http://www.members.optusnet.com.au/satr/satr.htm
here is a video of his layout
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XAE4XFpKU6E&feature=youtu.be
Some really cool stuff this guy does and his track really looks nice.
When I was researching switching to battery power, this was the dude that inspired me to go with the cheapest alternative. I’m now looking at doing the track and his sound boards, which are all homemade
Hey Shawn, it may seem like a good idea, but this is the first quote from the person who was doing it.
“However, I must admit that I now use brass rail nailed on timber sleepers for my mainlines, due to problems with the sleepers falling off the Al bar rail.”
If you really want inexpensive track, buy aluminum rail from SwitchCrafters along with a “Spiker” tool and spikes. Then cut your own ties and hand lay your track. Several people have done it and it works fine.
I’ll be doing some this winter on my indoor layout that I’m going to start.
Chuck
Chuck I dont think I would ever go that route only because I already have track (brass) and im anal about mixing rail up. If i were to start over and had very little cash flow I would have gone that route or as you mentioned al. I am really considering using wooden ties for my track. Now that I have two loops it will allow me to work on one loop while the other loop is operational. Ill prob spend the winter making my ties and come spring start tacking them on.
Shawn - The real fun question is what to use for the ties. I am currently researching it and have a few woods that I will start to cut up into ties. So far the best options I have are old growth redwood boards, but the supply is limited to a dozen or so lengths and I already bought half. Then there is Ipe, good supply more than I need but it never rots. Main issue is cutting up the hardwood. After than then you need to spike it but predrill each hole and one dril bit goes about a foot or so in track before dull. Lots of resharpening but the ties will never rot. Cedar I hear only lasts about 5-6 years before the spikes no longer hold anything. Cypress is supposed to be very good esp if you can find some sinker cypress, if you do let me know! Regular old Mahagony should last a long time also.
If you adapt this guy’s technique of bending the spikes over on top and bottom, you’ll have no worries about the spikes coming out. The trick is to find spikes longer than the ties. When we were first building our track on my dad’s railroad, we used 1/16" aluminum rod bent into staples.
(http://1stclass.mylargescale.com/eastbroadtop/WoodlandRY/WoolandTrackDrawing.jpg)
32 years later, that track is still as solid as the day we put it in. (Redwood ties soaked in creosote–back when you could still get it.) Later, K
Recycle old redwood fence boards to make ties. I’ve done that several times. For outdoors, I just use the ties in their original fence thickness as it gives the tie more “tooth” in the ground.
On a newly finished indoor section, I cut the ties to scale depth. I planed the boards to the right thickness, then cut the board into scale size. Spikes were a little long, but I just tapped the ties into place and they don’t move and the rail doesn’t move either.
Nothing beats the look of fading wooden ties.
