Large Scale Central

Home built switches

Track and Trestles
#1

Well, I have almost completed my first switch, a right hand #6. I must say that I am pleased with the way it turned out. Everything seems to run freely through it.

Last tasks, connect the points and then build the switch stand. The switch stand is no problem.

I have read every treatise on switch building that I could find, on line. Everyone seems to have their own favorite method of connecting the points.

Within this august body, is there consensus on how to do that? How about 2 or three favorites?

HELP!!!

#2

Nobody has a favorite way? How about a barely acceptable way?

#3

I have three barely acceptable ways.

  1. Bend the rail i.e. solid rail from frog to points. Works just fine with handthrows.

  2. Pivot points as per the write-up

  3. Loose rail joiners as a hinge.

#4

I’ve just been using the rail joiners on mine.

(http://jbrr.com/Pics/Switches/IMG_1167.jpg)

#5

Perhaps I mistyped. I’m talking about the widget that connects the 2 points and the switch stand.

I’ve read where you can use Printed Circuit Board, or a hunk of brass, even wood.

What say all y’all.

PS, thanks for trying.

PPS, my points are solid rail from frog to points. Only hand throw(too cheap for anything else) and only battery power.

#6

If battery power only and assuming brass rail, I’d solder on some flat brass stock. No extra hardware and will last forever.

If aluminum rail, I’d spike a tie to the point rails - not sure how that might work out with ballast getting stuck between it and the stand ties.

#7

I use a strip of brass to connect the points. I drill a hole in the base of the points and through the brass, then solder an escutcheon pin in place. Clip off the point when cool.

Then some spring wire bent to go in a hole in the brass. I typically bend a “V” in it, but I’ve also gone with a straight piece.

#8

Have nothing to offer advice wise but plan on doing some of my own switchbuilding someday. Very good info offered by all on this recently!

#9

Ya know we all like pics Steve!!!

#10
Steve Featherkile said:
Perhaps I mistyped. I'm talking about the widget that connects the 2 points and the switch stand.

I’ve read where you can use Printed Circuit Board, or a hunk of brass, even wood.

What say all y’all.

PS, thanks for trying.

PPS, my points are solid rail from frog to points. Only hand throw(too cheap for anything else) and only battery power.


I’m using printed circuit board with my Mk3 turnout throws. The toggle switch is for the frog polarity and keeps the points in position.

#11

I use a 4 inch piece of 1/4 brass strip, soldered like Bruce mentions.

#12

I use a slightly undersized tie, drill a small hole in the foot of the rail, and spike the point rail to the tie. For me it makes it easier if I have to make any adjustments.

(http://i253.photobucket.com/albums/hh58/rgseng/switch01.jpg)

On a stub switch I use a different method, (don’t know why, just do), but I would need a pic to help explain it …:wink: pic provided:

(http://i253.photobucket.com/albums/hh58/rgseng/switch03.jpg)

#13

I just use an undersize tie too…

#14

Thanks to all who answered. I will likely try each idea to see which one works for me. For Ken Brunt: What is the purpose of the angled wire between the points in this pix?

(http://i253.photobucket.com/albums/hh58/rgseng/switch01.jpg)

#15

Thats called an “overthrow spring”. Done like that it will force the points against each rail. Adds a bit of pressure. You CAN just use an overthrow spring, and not have any kind of ground throw. Make sure you make all your springs/throw wires out of stainless piano wire. Regular steel will rust and lose its springiness pretty quickly.

#16
Bob McCown said:
Thats called an "overthrow spring". Done like that it will force the points against each rail. Adds a bit of pressure. You *CAN* just use an overthrow spring, and not have any kind of ground throw. Make sure you make all your springs/throw wires out of stainless piano wire. Regular steel will rust and lose its springiness pretty quickly.
And for indoors, the Tom Ruby method is to cut and bend a safety pin. Once you figure out the length and location for holes it works very nicely as a finger operated snap switch,