Large Scale Central

Hillman joiners and LGB track

General Discussion
#1

I’m aware that most on this forum likely spike their own track, and I admire that. However, before brass turned to gold, I purchased miles of 2’ LGB track sections at a “close out” price. Therefore not being a purist and lacking a fortune, that’s what I’m using for my new layout. Also if I kick off, my wife can sell the stuff to help send one of the grand kids to medical school. Now; the Hillman “over joiners” seem to work great and the LGB track is bullet proof ,so ---- that unimportant info is not the true reason for this post. The reason is to report the measurable increase in the Earth’s gravitational pull. I don’t know why science and the press have not reported this sooner. 20 years ago when I laid track, I could kneel down, lay a couple sections and stand up with ease then kneel again and so forth. Now 20 years later I can do the same, but there is a measurable increase in the effort it takes when I stand up. I wonder if the moon is closer now?

Norm, who can’t spell.

#2

I think you’re on to something with this “increased gravitational pull” theory.
Seems as it has pulled a few of my upper body muscles…down to my waist :smiley:
Ralph

#3

I don’t know Norm. I’m pretty sure the ground has just gotten further away !!! That’s what I tell my tent camping friends when they kid me about having a cushy camper :smiley:

#4
Jon Radder said:
I don't know Norm. I'm pretty sure the ground has just gotten further away !!! That's what I tell my tent camping friends when they kid me about having a cushy camper :D
Now a days, I do my camping in an ocean front condo. I used to use a 35 foot bus for camping. Parked it when the speed limit went to 65-70mph. I could have changed the gear, but the bus really didn't need to be going more than 55. Ralph
#5

ON 2’ sections thats a lot of rail joiners?
Why not hard solder them in 8’ or 10’ sections.

#6

The exact reason I raised my layout up to my knees in some places and up to my waist in others, Norm.

(The track is flat, the land slopes.)

If I get down on the ground, I’ll never get up again. :slight_smile: :slight_smile: :slight_smile:

#7

Hi Norm,

On the clamps, that will be a lot of clamps and quite a few dollars. Jumpering the standard rail joiners should work just as well and will allow for expansion and contraction in most climates.

On the increasing gravitational pull … may I suggest stretching your arms far up to the sky, next touching your toes and repeating that as many times as necessary to get rid of the pull sensation. :smiley: :stuck_out_tongue: :smiley:

Yes I know, even the kids in Grade 4 huff and puff, threaten to keel over and other routines, but they all survive. :slight_smile: Yep, there is snow on the mountain and just as soon as the renovators are out of the house I’ll be XC skiing.

OTOH keep in mind neither the tip on the clamps nor the excercise routine is to be taken seriously, I’m rarely serious. :wink: :slight_smile: :wink:

PS but my spelling is usually pretty good.

PPS when jumpering joiners I drill a suitable hole in the foot of the rail to thread the wire through, the small cross section between the hole and the edge of the rail will heat very rapidly and results in a proper solder joint. A bit more work but …

#8

Hans makes sense.
Calculate the cost of the clamps vs. a Weller 250 watt soldering gun and solder.
My take if choosing to solder:
Place 5 or 6 sections of 2’ track on top of trash barrels attached and held together with rubber bands. Solder jumpers made from ground wire - Home Depot - that is not insulated. You will be at waist high.
Use a substantial amount of solder – I found holding the gun at the rail for 10 seconds got it hot enough to melt a puddle of solder for attachment.
Wendell

#9

Couldn’t you use a 3 ought (aught) tip on an Oxy/Acetelyene welder and sweat the joiner/rail joints like you would plumbing fittings? If you were to use Aristo Craft or like track you would have the advantage of the mechanical connection with the conductivity of the solder joint.No?

#10

I know now to ask questions first!! This is a great forum. $600 in joiners and 20 hours of labor later, the deed is done. All of the suggestions above would have been a better way to go, and I think that despite my lack of handyman tallent I coulda dun it with the solder. Oh well, I did test the joiners before, and if I ever need to change or take track apart, I can. The look is a bit clunky with joiners every 2’. I just have one temporary connection and every bit of the mainline runs well. This track was stored in stacks in my garage for about 27 years and was coal black. I guess you could say it had a great patina, but in fact it was a mass of corrosion. I applied the juice, and nothing would move —nothing. My brother-in-law, Ted, who is responsible for getting me hooked on this stuff, shipped me his LGB track cleaning engine. After cleaning an area to get it started and a few times around, – the track shines. I kinda wonder what Ted will do when I don’t ship it back? Anyway, thanks to all for the great suggestions, and in the future I’ll ask before I leap. By the way; my next step is wiring. My plan is to put all the wires in buryed grey plastic tubing and try to seal the ends where the various wires come out. It’s a simple layout. The section I’m working on has about 400’ of track and only 4 switches. Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated.

Norm, who is very humble right now and still spelling impared.

#11

Hey Norm,

Welcome to this site first of all. Lets see, 400’ of track equals about 400’ to 600’ of wiring, plus conduit, and 400’ plus of continuing track cleaning.

I’ll bet you would be much happier with “No Wiring & No Track Cleaning”. Before you start putting in all that wiring check on going to “Battery Power” and the new Aristo Craft Revolution remote system. It works well and doesn’t cost you an “Arm & Leg” to get started. Besides it sure makes playing with your trains a lot more fun.

Just my two cents.

Chuck

#12

Steam power = run when you like - dirty track, schmirty track, who cares?

tac
www.ovgrs.org

#13
Norman L. Clark said:
The look is a bit clunky with joiners every 2'.
I guess you guys have money to throw away - my track is positively minute, but it's in 8 foot long sections to save costs....still, Norman, getting the track for free is better, but $600 on joiners? Sheeeeesh, or, if you live in MY house, Oy.

tac
www.ovgrs.org

#14
Hans-Joerg Mueller said:
Hi Norm,

Yes I know, even the kids in Grade 4 huff and puff, threaten to keel over and other routines, but they all survive. :slight_smile: Yep, there is snow on the mountain and just as soon as the renovators are out of the house I’ll be XC skiing.

OTOH keep in mind neither the tip on the clamps nor the excercise routine is to be taken seriously, I’m rarely serious. :wink: :slight_smile: :wink:

PS but my spelling is usually pretty good.


XC skiing, im jealous. I cant wait to get my skis out. Im going out today to buy my 5 year old her first set of XC skis.

Dont forget you can always use the aristo rail clamps. The cost a lot less and work well.

#15

Norm,

We all learn from each other. I hope you where speaking tongue in cheek when you stated that you thought most of us hand spike our track. I venture to state that most of us have track much the same as you and though it may be a variety of brands it is mostly put together with rail joiners or clamps of one brand or another.

#16

I started out to hand spike. I spiked about 35 feet before I ordered 10 boxes of tie strips.
I am preparing to buy Hillman rail joiners instead of soldering. Why? I really haven’t figured out how to solder track without meltingthe tie strips. The first two sections I could just slide the tie strips back but how do I continue?
I do have a theory about the rail joiners. It will be messy but I have decided to take the LGB rail joiners off before putting the Hillman rail joiners on. Why? The track has been down about five years so I figure the rail needs a good cleaning. Also, won;t the rail joiners (especially those dirty ones) interfer with conductivity?
Buy a good set of knee pads! It is getting further to those tracks and the knees are bonier too!

#17

Norm,
You get two conductor low voltage “bury wire” (used in landscaping) and fergit all that plumbing!
I know guys who have had that wire in the ground for 15+ years without prollems.

Check it out at yer local Home Depot.

#18
Norman L. Clark said:
.... By the way; my next step is wiring. My plan is to put all the wires in buryed grey plastic tubing and try to seal the ends where the various wires come out. It's a simple layout. The section I'm working on has about 400' of track and only 4 switches. Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated.

Norm, who is very humble right now and still spelling impared.


Hi Norm,

As mentioned by JB use low voltage landscape cable. I’d suggest the AWG#12 for the main bus (trunk) and the AWG#14 for the branches. Run the bus all the way around parallel to the oval and branch from that or run the trunk down the middle and branch from that. Whichever way do yourself a favour and divide the layout in power segments to make trouble shooting much easier.

BTW one conductor sleeve of the cable is ribbed, that helps telling which is plus or minus. :wink: :slight_smile: :wink:

#19

Yes! THANK YOU! Good advice on the low voltage landscape cable. Much easier than the “plumbing” Just one question before I head for Home Depot; will AWG #14 fit directly into the LGB switch controllers?

Norm

#20

Prolly not.
You might have to trim a few of the wires down, or splice into a smaller wire just for the switch machines.