Large Scale Central

Hi Temp Adhesive?

Electronics Live Steam
#1

Has anyone found and adhesive that will work under high-heat conditions to attach detail parts? I’m having trouble making a permanent mount for my number plate. I have a nice brass pin that I bought at Cass. I filed the back smooth and filed the supplied Shay number plate smooth to match then used an adhesive to attache the two. First time I fired the loco the brass plat fell right off :frowning: Another alternative would be a nice cast brass number plate with a threaded stud for mounting. Preferably with Lima Locomotive Works cast in. I’ve never seen these offered anywhere.

#2

Epoxy.
Ralph

#3

I’ve had good luck with J B Weld. Supposed to be good up to 500 degrees F.

#4
Ralph Berg said:
Epoxy. Ralph
I don't think so. I use a heat gun to remove epoxy joints when I make mistakes. Might be a high-temp kind I'm not aware of.

I’ll look into the JBWeld. Should be easy to find.

#5

JB Weld is an epoxy.
Ralph

#6

Ive used JB Weld on my race car on hot bits like the oil tank and the header and it holds up pretty well there, so should be ok for a live steamer.

#7

JB Weld will work just fine. I’ve seen it used to repair cracked blocks on diesels.
Ralph

#8

Jon,
JB weld was a mechanics secret for years. Excellent product… Napa carries it.

#9

Thanks for all the recommendations. I picked up a package of JB Weld last night. Will give it a try.

Ralph - yes of course it is. I was thinking of regular two-part epoxy that does easily come apart with heat.

#10

The only thing to remember with JB Weld is it has lousy strength in tension or shear. It’ll hold until you twist it.

#11

Thanks. I re-applied the number plate with JB Weld last weekend. I didn’t fire it up yet to see if it ill hold. I generally don’t twist that part, so I’m hopeful it will be OK.

#12

Just thought I’d let you know how to get it back off should you ever need to. :wink:

#13
Mik said:
The only thing to remember with JB Weld is it has lousy strength in tension or shear. It'll hold until you twist it.
It's all in how you mix it and how the surfaced are prepped?
#14

Prolly true Dave - I mixed on a small piece of PVC with a cut off zip tie. It was hard to get equal parts in a very small quantity. After I was done I left the zip tie in the puddle to dry as a test. Tonight I gave the zip tie a tug and it popped right off the PVC. Then I was able to pull the zip tie free of the cured puddle. I did no prep to the mixing tool or surface. For the parts I was joining I sanded with 100 grit then cleaned with lacquer thinner per the instructions.

#15
David Russell said:
Mik said:
The only thing to remember with JB Weld is it has lousy strength in tension or shear. It'll hold until you twist it.
It's all in how you mix it and how the surfaced are prepped?
More like it has better properties for compression, gap filling and wear resistance? My father has used the stuff for probably 40 some odd years in the shop. So do you think he might just have used it in about every way that it was designed to, and a few it wasn't by now? You wanna fix pits in a cylinder wall or repair a cracked intake manifold it works a treat. You wanna try to use it to cement a broken screen door handle back together - it will come off in your hand sooner, not later - even if you pin it. It's pretty brittle so doesn't deform before letting go either. It does what it was designed to do well. It just wasn't really designed for use it tension or torsion situations. Nor was it designed to stick well to slippery engineering plastics like zip ties .... or Aristo truck frames. Also.. "Hi temp" is a relative term. Don't expect it to hold up on stuff like exhaust flanges or aircooled combustion chambers.

I know it might be a surprise to you, but I occasionally DO know what I’m talking about.