Yoe Gil, welcome aboard.
Gil,
The biggest mistake a newbie makes is over-planning with lots of tight corners and turnouts.
You will be straitening curves and removing turnouts as you build it. More turnouts mean more maintenance and headaches.
On mine, all the industries are served by one long siding that also serves as a reversing loop.
I run batt/rc.
All my track floats on fines and except for a little re-ballasting here and there, I have no problems.
1 guy has torn out his “ladder” and floated his track.
4 or 5 other guys float in our club as well. Floating allows for instant track-realignment if you want to change something.
If you fill with dirt or sand, yes it will settle. I filled mine with “pit run” 2 to 3" rock. Settling is at a minimum. Mini trees and plants are in pots, buried.
If you want to sit back and watch the caboose go by, you will need a loop, instead of a point to point, as well.
Just my .02
Welcome to LSC!
Gil V said:
Once again thanks for all the posts and emails with information I am receiving. No layouts yet but I am sure some will come. For the gentleman who suggested the computer design programs , these still assume I have some sort of understanding on how track is laid out. So how to I divert the train down all those different tracks that look like arteries? Do I use a right/left switch? or to I use a #6 Switch? It looks like I have to use a right #6 switch followed buy a series of left #6 switches??????? It's all soo confusing.On the track ladder issue. The link to the road bead system I am considering is at
www.gardenrailwayproducts.com/roadbed.html
Anyone have any experience with this system?
By the way Dave did call me and now I am anticipating my RCS system to arrive early next week.
Gil V.
The split jaw stuff is nice but pricey. Me and many others here make our own ladder support systems, all with our own twist on it. Here’s mine - http://www.grblogs.com/index.php/2008/12/13/ladder-track-support-systems?blog=25
-Brian
Gil V said:
Once again thanks for all the posts and emails with information I am receiving. No layouts yet but I am sure some will come. For the gentleman who suggested the computer design programs , these still assume I have some sort of understanding on how track is laid out. So how to I divert the train down all those different tracks that look like arteries? Do I use a right/left switch? or to I use a #6 Switch? It looks like I have to use a right #6 switch followed buy a series of left #6 switches??????? It's all soo confusing.On the track ladder issue. The link to the road bead system I am considering is at
www.gardenrailwayproducts.com/roadbed.html
Anyone have any experience with this system?
By the way Dave did call me and now I am anticipating my RCS system to arrive early next week.
Gil V.
Gil,
You will want to use large radius curves, probably in the neighborhood of 10 - 15 feet in diameter. Note that I said diameter. In large scale, for some reason, curves are spoken of as a diameter, not a radius. This might be a holdover from Lionel days, but who knows for sure. The larger the curve, the better the train will look, and the more types of locomotives and other rolling stock you will be able to field. Given that, you will probably want to use the number 6 turnout (switch), as well. You might get away with a so called “wide radius” switch, which is nominally a 10 ft diameter on the diverging track. You will have to be extra careful of “S” curves, though, as well as speed through the switch. Even though LS uses the term diameter when speaking of curves, radius seems to sneak in frequently, so you have to pay attention. 
The roadbed you speak of is first cabin, no doubt, but it is more expensive than the track itself. Unless you have very deep pockets, I would suggest that you consider something else. A 36 inch straight piece of roadbed sells for $12.00. It will add up fast.
John Bouck said:Can't I do both?
If you want to sit back and watch the caboose go by, you will need a loop, instead of a point to point, as well.
Gil V.
Gil V said:John Bouck said:Can't I do both?
If you want to sit back and watch the caboose go by, you will need a loop, instead of a point to point, as well.Gil V.
You certainly can. I started outdoors as point-to-point, just a dead end main. Later I added a Wye to allow trains to turn around, but that takes moving switches and backing up. My next expansion will be a loop that crosses over part of the Wye. That will allow continuous running as I have a loop at the other end indoors. Lot’s of guys build in a loop-back connection in their point-to-point for times when continuous running is desired. Up in Canada at Fred Mills’ IPP&W the loop connection just looks like another siding unless you pay very close attention.
BTW - I wanted to welcome you to to LSC, not MLS. Serious senior moment there. I hope Bob will forgive me 
Sure you can do both. I have several loops. If I ever expand, it will be a point to point.
The roadbed you are planning on using looks nice. But it is going to more than double your costs. Price per foot is higher than track.
I would suggest you try one of the free software programs. You will learn a lot just playing with the software.
Remember to plan it so you have access to interior areas. I found out the hard way not to put the yard on the interior of the layout.
I moved it to an exterior area where I can get to it without performing acrobatics.
Here is a log of building my railroad. I started last spring.
It goes through quite a few changes along the way.
http://www.largescalecentral.com/LSCForums/viewtopic.php?id=8720
Good luck. You’ll have fun.
Ralph
Gil V said:John Bouck said:Can't I do both?
If you want to sit back and watch the caboose go by, you will need a loop, instead of a point to point, as well.Gil V.
Of course you can. Take a look at Bart’s layout plan. I think that Bruce Chandler has a point to point with a loop disguised as a siding. Dave Goodson has a point to point to point, with a hidden loop in the middle. He might send you a copy of his track plan. Dave uses pressure treated wood for his roadbed, too.
I started out like someone early on here suggested. I put a loop on the ground and fired up my Mikado with a string of cars. As it chased its caboose, I started thinking (yes, it hurt) that I could put a town over there, one over there, run the track this way and that. I started drawing it on paper, not to scale, but just to get the idea down on paper so I could look at it again, and again, and again.
I ran through more erasures than pencils.
I didn’t worry about scale drawings, because I knew that they wouldn’t withstand first contact.
To make a 90 degree corner, I used two 10 ft diameter Aristocraft curves in the middle, with a 20 ft diameter curve on each end as an easement. This allowed me to get a large curve into a smaller area. The easement allowed the train to “ease” into the curve without the seemingly instantaneous change of direction found with smaller curves.
The idea is to get started.
Steve Featherkile said:
You will have to be extra careful of “S” curves, though
and then sometimes a good S curve is a necessary evil -
-Brian
Brian Donovan said:
Steve Featherkile said:
You will have to be extra careful of “S” curves, thoughand then sometimes a good S curve is a necessary evil -
-Brian
I planned several “S” curves to break up long straights. They weren’t necessary, but make the circuit visually interesting. They haven’t caused any uncoupling or derailment problems for me. Ralph
You don’t need a table saw to make the ladder track bed–I’ve done it by ripping trex on a table saw, but also by buying 1x8ft "tuf-board at home depots, and then cutting spacer blocks with a chop saw.
That premade roadbed is good quality stuff and works well. If you can afford it, it’s a fine choice.
Like everybody says, aim for big curves.
There are a number of different ways to remote control. I use the QSI/Airwire combo, works under track power or batteries and has excellent sound built in. Lots of people swear by RCS and the tech support is excellent.
Just build a loop and start running. It’s the best way to figure out what to do next! A round a round is great–casual visitors love it. You can always add a point to point later. And yes, you can have both
Good Lord…you guys are all over Gil and filling him in real fast!!!
Welcome Gil 
I personally like the ladders for the ground contacted part of my RR but am steering towards the PT decking for the raised part. For the ladders I personally prefer “Trimplank” as bends much nicer than Tuf Board and a bit easier to work with. I personally have chosen track power and will stick with it despite it’s down falls and a bit of extra maintenance. Considering what my overall RR accomplishment is I must use it. I would like to add some battery power for smaller trains. A battery powered maintenance train would be quite nice especially in the winter months of PA. My RR has been outside for 3 years and still learning but researching and collecting info for 8 yrs. I have not been at this as long as most of these guys but I thought I would add my thoughts.
DavidBrian Donovan said:
Steve Featherkile said:
You will have to be extra careful of “S” curves, thoughand then sometimes a good S curve is a necessary evil -
-Brian .
And if you have room, the S curve is no problem at all. Photos of Jens Bang’s Snake River RR in Spirit Lake, ID
Ok I cleared the two major obstacles to getting started so now I ready. The first obstacle was buying a house with enough land to do this project. Second, got the wife’s ok to start the project.
I know that most of you said “just lay down the track”, ok I am willing to do that but first, I have no track. Well I do have enough for a 4 ft circle, two straight three feet sections (now its an 4 ft diameter oval), two switches and more circular sections for an inner circle. So I have to go get some more track, not a big deal but I need to know how much track to get.
Being an engineer (the type that designs thing not the one who conducts a train) I had to star with something on paper.
So I drew a pretty simple point-to-point line with the possibility to also run in in a continuous “loop”.
How to I get the image uploaded so you guys can critique it?
Gil V.
Gil V said:
Ok I cleared the two major obstacles to getting started so now I ready. The first obstacle was buying a house with enough land to do this project. Second, got the wife's ok to start the project.I know that most of you said “just lay down the track”, ok I am willing to do that but first, I have no track. Well I do have enough for a 4 ft circle, two straight three feet sections (now its an 4 ft diameter oval), two switches and more circular sections for an inner circle. So I have to go get some more track, not a big deal but I need to know how much track to get.
Being an engineer (the type that designs thing not the one who conducts a train) I had to star with something on paper.
So I drew a pretty simple point-to-point line with the possibility to also run in in a continuous “loop”.
How to I get the image uploaded so you guys can critique it?
Gil V.
Gil
you need to add it to your “my files” on the site here. then you can attach it to a posting. That way we can all see it. If its not in your computer as a file yet you can scan it in. I have done that before and then do all the stuff above. hope this helps. looking forward to what you have.
Thanks
here is my layout
Did not work. I uploaded to myfiles but have no way to link to it from here. Feel really dumb
Gil V.
Double click on the file in “my files”. In IE it will ask you if it is OK to copy the file to your clipboard. Click OK and then paste it into your post.
If you are using Firefox…someone else will have to help you. It didn’t work for me in Firefox after FF 3 came out.
Ralph
DRNGW_Plan1.jpg
Aggggg
Gil V said:
Ok I cleared the two major obstacles to getting started so now I ready. The first obstacle was buying a house with enough land to do this project. Second, got the wife's ok to start the project.I know that most of you said “just lay down the track”, ok I am willing to do that but first, I have no track. Well I do have enough for a 4 ft circle, two straight three feet sections (now its an 4 ft diameter oval), two switches and more circular sections for an inner circle. So I have to go get some more track, not a big deal but I need to know how much track to get.
Being an engineer (the type that designs thing not the one who conducts a train) I had to star with something on paper.
So I drew a pretty simple point-to-point line with the possibility to also run in in a continuous “loop”.
How to I get the image uploaded so you guys can critique it?
Gil V.
Gil the Regal here go buy a box or two of 5ft straights and maybe a couple boxes of at least 10ft curves take it from me you will always need MORE track you will come up with ideas that need more track ALWAYS, so you can never have enough, the problem is not paying too much for whatever, and whenever you buy it.
Gil V said:
[url]DRNGW_Plan1.jpg[/url]Aggggg
Gil,
If you click on the file in “my files”, it will look something like this as it shows up when you paste http: //www.lscdata.com/users/gil/my files/DRNGW_Plan1.jpg
no image or url tag.
Ralph