Large Scale Central

Help. What toggle to use?

Electronics
#1

The track for my new yard is down on my benchwork and I’m happy.

The plans are to isolate and operate 8 blocks on this table. All the insulated rail joiners are in place and the next step is to wire the tracks. I’m using a common rail with the other insulated like I have done on other sidings on my RR and like I did back in the HO days.

Question is what type of toggle do I use and where can I get them cheap considering I need 8 of them?

All I need is on/off.

I plan on painting a board with the track diagram on it then mounting the switches through that and then putting the whole deal into a tupper ware container to protect it from the elements.

My power comes from a 24volt 12amp transformer. If I’m running power from one rail through a toggle do I need one that is rated for 12 amps?

What would you suggest and where is the best source for the 8 toggles I need?

Also what AWG wire would you suggest?

Thanks

#2

Hi Todd -

About 5 years ago I broke up my outdoor layout into blocks so I could run several track powered trains individually. Rather than use a centrally located block control panel, I mounted my switches in standard outdoor electrical boxes using blank “Decora” plates to mount the switches. I was able to fit up to three switches per blank.

I cant recall exactly, but I think I probably used 10A SPST toggles. A good cheap source is www.allelectronics.com but if you are in a hurry the local Radio Shack store might have two or three in stock. I ended up cutting the handles short so the box cover would close.

For wire, use the largest practical and keep the run as short as possible. A good easy to find (Lowes, Home Depot) choice is Low Voltage Outdoor Lighting cable. Comes in 12 gauge two conductor direct burial.

I’ve since converted to nearly 100% battery power and the block switches haven’t been used in 3 or 4 years.

#3

For powering a siding the wire size depends on how far away the power switch is.

For being close I would just use 16 or 14 guage, 12 is over kill and what size are your engines?

Only thing I know that needs 10 amps would be a consist of PA/PB’s and lit passenger cars or some other large diesel setups.

And remember being a siding, it is not as if you care about a 1 or 2 volt drop, you need to go slow anyway!!

#4

Thanks guys good points and very true Dan, in the yard “you need to go slow anyway!!”

After doing a local search for toggles and finding a average price of $4.50 I’m going back to my original plan of using light switches and lamp cord. I already have most of what I need to get it done. It is cheap and it works. I have already spent more than I wanted to on this project.

Light switches about another $10. Toggles about $60 by the time it’s done.

This yard will have an option to be run off my main line TE or totally seperated via 2 switches that I have already installed so I can run the yard with a small seperate transformer.

Thanks.

#5

Dan Pierce said:

For powering a siding the wire size depends on how far away the power switch is.

For being close I would just use 16 or 14 guage, 12 is over kill and what size are your engines?

Only thing I know that needs 10 amps would be a consist of PA/PB’s and lit passenger cars or some other large diesel setups.

And remember being a siding, it is not as if you care about a 1 or 2 volt drop, you need to go slow anyway!!

I don’t disagree for sidings Dan. My blocks are mostly all on the main so I didn’t want any voltage drop. For my indoor yard I use 16 and 18. I got real lazy on a stub end yard that ends on a shelf; no switches at all. I just have a long lead with an alligator clip I connect to the track I want to power.

#6

Todd, inside or outside? Inside, you could use Atlas toggles for your yard. Outside, you will need to allow for some sort of weather proofing.

#7

Iused to have a whole bank of those Atlas toggles back in my HO days but my large scale layout is outside Steve. For years now I have been using light switches mounted in small buildings located next to the sidings that they isolate. It has worked well and I have only had to replace one out of 5 in the last 3 years due to it getting wet.

Thanks guys, I hope to have the yard wired up this weekend.

#8

I’m not an electrician.

I heard that the contacts on the switch have to be rated to be switched under load. So if U get a 10amp switch for example, it can handle a few more amps as long as you’re not switching it under load. I don’t believe that the trains would draw full juice on a siding just sitting there. Just trying to help.