I say good bye to my N scale friends and hello to my new large scale friends. A new learning curve has begun. Standard USA preformed track and flex track is what I intend to use on a small garden layout. Powered track most likey DCC in the furture (if you can even use DCC on large scale, I’m real green with this scale) non- proto type i just want to sit back and enjoy the build and running what ever i want. I was sticker shock when i saw the price of brass, I suppose the copper price has something to do with that, the $$ of SS dosen’t look that much better. But it is what it is and i don’t have the time to scratch build track. I learned years ago with my N scale layout you can have the nicest engines and rolling stock in the world but with out a good foundation and track it just doesn’t matter. (I will probably use ladder method for base apprx 3-6 inches off the ground)
I need some feed back on track manufactors, I know it’s a passionate and touchy subject and for some folks, but i can’t find any reviews on the internet and i have always had tremedous luck in the past asking the folks that build layouts. Bachmann, USA, aristo craft, LGB, are they all interchangable?
I will certainly have more questions but lets start with that.
thanks
"Bachmann, USA, aristo craft, LGB, are they all interchangable? "
That’s pretty simple. USA, Aristo Craft and LGB will interchange, all solid brass with close to the same profiles. Bachmann is hollow and is held together with pins like the old Lionel track.
Keep asking and you’ll get answers to your questions by some one on this list.
I tried sectional track but was not really happy with it. I like the flowing curves that you get with flex track. I happen to use AMS code 250 narrow gauge track and I’ve been quite pleased with it. I did not use a rail bender and mounted it firmly to the ladder roadbed.
My current operating layout is indoors. It’s a mixture of USAT, Aristo and LGB code 332 with the majority being LGB. It is all ready made, preformed track. No problems.
My recommendation for a first layout…go with Aristo stainless. It doesn’t matter if you like the preformed track or flex track. But it will go down the easiest and give you the least problems and have to do the least cleaning of all. Especially important if you want to use DCC.
Now, let me start WWIII and say my piece about DCC. DON’T…!! Since you are starting out fresh I would highly recommend going to onboard battery and R/C control. Then it doesn’t matter what track you use as long as the train stays on. No track cleaning. No power pack. No wiring. Just run…and charge batteries…and that’s installed “plug and play”.
Basic questions come first, WHAT era, WHAT gauge, ???
Coming from N, I would deduce your a Moderist, IOWs standard gauge, modern era… by modern I mean post WW2 era.
Outdoors, DCC or RC/ battery is the way to go, I’ll let you decide which would suit your layout better, Being indoors, like Warren, gives me a different perspective and approach, namely traditional block wiring and good’ol Atlas controllers, but then I dont have to trench dozens of feet of wiring underground either.
If your serious about DCC I would second the investigation into Stainless Steel. Brass track has gone thru the flippin roof pricewise recently and I dont beleive its that much more expensive to go for the better options in the garden, track powered brass outdoors is OK but requires alot more cleaning maintanence. This is where the RC-Battery guys have it made in the shade, no track cleaning, they used to use brass track because it was the cheapest stuff available.
But today for RC I would suggest investigating aluminum track, which now may be the cheapest option or just troll Ebay for used brass track, it can still be got for cheap. USA brass track is still the least expensive brass out there, its the same dam stuff Aristo sells, just comes with a different box. Forget LGB or Piko track unless youhave a freakin Trust Fund.
Steam era is what i am leaning towards. I am from the N scale side of the hobby and wirless DCC is what i am used to using, It’s been a decade or so since i wired a reverse loop. LOL. The more i read the more the Batt op seems like the way to go. lots of things to think about. I am leaning towrds SS track at this point and will certainly consisder AL if i decide to go Batt Ops.
Welcome to another Healey - I’ll count you in, even with the “e” before the “y”!
The advice about USA/Aristo/LGB compatibility is correct. The joiners on Aristo differ from the other two - Aristo uses small screws, the other two use sliders with a tag in the tie. It’s no big deal - you’ll get 'em hooked up.
Dunno where Wheat Ridge is, but if you’re in a hot climate the LGB ties are rated to 50 deg C. The USA and Aristo ties are harder plastic. Following a tip from another LSC member, I’ve sprayed my USA and Aristo track with ArmorAll - so far, so good.
I was able to buy LGB brass when it was affordable! I agree about the tie strips. I only use LGB in our desert climate. I have 15-foot radius curves and just bent the flex over my knee. It was crude but it worked fine. I had one curve I wasn’t happy with and the heat after one summer smoothed out the curve nicely. I came from HO and even though I’ve learned a lot I had the basics. Welcome to large scale!
thanks Dave
I’m in colorado just west of Denver, think the Irish either added an "e"or lost the “e” somewhere along the line. I am leaning towards primarliy Aristo SS flex track, (but with your input it seems like i can mix and match) I’m really sold on DCC from my N scale days, its hard to beat that freedom and not have to worry about Batteries. I know the Batt ops are a cool way to go but i need to do some research on that. An aspect of the of the hobby that i love is the electrical wiring portion so that doesn’t bother me.
Dave Healy said:
Welcome to another Healey - I'll count you in, even with the "e" before the "y"!The advice about USA/Aristo/LGB compatibility is correct. The joiners on Aristo differ from the other two - Aristo uses small screws, the other two use sliders with a tag in the tie. It’s no big deal - you’ll get 'em hooked up.
Dunno where Wheat Ridge is, but if you’re in a hot climate the LGB ties are rated to 50 deg C. The USA and Aristo ties are harder plastic. Following a tip from another LSC member, I’ve sprayed my USA and Aristo track with ArmorAll - so far, so good.
The only problem with DCC outside in your neck of the woods is keeping the track clean. With stainless, that is less of a problem, but still needs attention now and then. The verdigris on the brass track pretty much limits the use of DCC outside unless you live in Airy Zone A or Sandy Eggo.
You might try leaving some brass N-scale track outside for a few weeks this winter, then see how well it transfers the digital signal.
Steve Featherkile said:
The only problem with DCC outside in your neck of the woods is keeping the track clean. With stainless, that is less of a problem, but still needs attention now and then. The verdigris on the brass track pretty much limits the use of DCC outside unless you live in Airy Zone A or Sandy Eggo.You might try leaving some brass N-scale track outside for a few weeks this winter, then see how well it transfers the digital signal.
Do they do Brass N Gauge, West of Denver is still pretty dry, well compared to most places.
N scale track is mosty the nickel silver these days. I would be more concerned about track getting dirty in the humid areas of the country. I am wondering about DCC on SS track.
Dave what are you running in durango?
David said:Steve Featherkile said:
The only problem with DCC outside in your neck of the woods is keeping the track clean. With stainless, that is less of a problem, but still needs attention now and then. The verdigris on the brass track pretty much limits the use of DCC outside unless you live in Airy Zone A or Sandy Eggo.You might try leaving some brass N-scale track outside for a few weeks this winter, then see how well it transfers the digital signal.
Do they do Brass N Gauge, West of Denver is still pretty dry, well compared to most places.
I built my railroad with Aristo stainless and have been very happy with it. I used sectional curves and 5 foot straights (sometimes flexed a bit). Track cleaning is just getting the dirt off (I do mine with an Aristo track cleaning car. The stainless is tough stuff. I cut it in place with a 4" metal cutting blade on an angle grinder. I have not seen DCC work well outdoors consistently. I run a mix of track (mostly) and battery power. The only thing I don’t like about the Aristo stainless is the color (ties and rail) which is easily remedied with a few cans of spray paint (before and after shots) -
(http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n214/altterrain/vehicles/dlvtrk2sm.jpg)
(http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n214/altterrain/party607/town1.jpg)
-Brian
K J Healey said:I have AMS Brass and a few bits of others.
N scale track is mosty the nickel silver these days. I would be more concerned about track getting dirty in the humid areas of the country. I am wondering about DCC on SS track. Dave what are you running in durango?David said:Steve Featherkile said:
The only problem with DCC outside in your neck of the woods is keeping the track clean. With stainless, that is less of a problem, but still needs attention now and then. The verdigris on the brass track pretty much limits the use of DCC outside unless you live in Airy Zone A or Sandy Eggo.You might try leaving some brass N-scale track outside for a few weeks this winter, then see how well it transfers the digital signal.
Do they do Brass N Gauge, West of Denver is still pretty dry, well compared to most places.
But with DCC, I would be thinking SS without a doubt.
http://www.tttrains.com/dcc/hybriddrive/
This seems to have the best of both words, thinking of giving it at least a try with one loco.
Being nearer Denver you have lots of Clubs to consider.
Heading up 285 on Monday, I think the wife has had her fill of my comments about what ran where.
Going to bring the Grand Kids back for the Polar Express!
FWIW compared to NA there are quite a lot of DCC powered LS layouts in Europe. Interestingly they all seem to function rather well once the owners figured out the fundamentals. At least half of those layouts - if not more - use brass track. As I mentioned FWIW!
David said:K J Healey said:I have AMS Brass and a few bits of others.
N scale track is mosty the nickel silver these days. I would be more concerned about track getting dirty in the humid areas of the country. I am wondering about DCC on SS track. Dave what are you running in durango?David said:
Do they do Brass N Gauge, West of Denver is still pretty dry, well compared to most places.But with DCC, I would be thinking SS without a doubt.
http://www.tttrains.com/dcc/hybriddrive/
This seems to have the best of both words, thinking of giving it at least a try with one loco.
Being nearer Denver you have lots of Clubs to consider.
Heading up 285 on Monday, I think the wife has had her fill of my comments about what ran where.
Going to bring the Grand Kids back for the Polar Express!
Dave
Enjoy the holidays
Are you running powered track or Batt. I am very unfamiliar with batt op trains, if you have any websites in mind that give the basics of Batt op I would like to take a look. i guess i can take a 10 minute drive over to Caboose hobbies and check it out. I hate going in there, cha ching… I can’t take my wife there she has thousands of dollars worth of N scale micro trains and is always looking to expand the collection.
Enjoy the grand kids
kj
Steve Featherkile said:Nah, KJ won't have a problem - he lives in Color Radio!
The verdigris on the brass track pretty much limits the use of DCC outside unless you live in Airy Zone A or Sandy Eggo.
I’m not Dave, but a good primer on battery ops is the Ottawa Valley Garden Railway Society
If your questions aren’t anwered in the writings< I can put you in touch with the members.
I’m not a allowed to be member, just an International Representative for the Lower Middle Midwest, that is if you don’t go to far south or to far west. 
Ric Golding said:
I'm not Dave, but a good primer on battery ops is the Ottawa Valley Garden Railway SocietyIf your questions aren’t anwered in the writings< I can put you in touch with the members.
I’m not a allowed to be member, just an International Representative for the Lower Middle Midwest, that is if you don’t go to far south or to far west.
Thanks Ric