Large Scale Central

Help . . . . re track .

Hi . . . been visiting occasionally . . . still not the time or space to do a layout.

I did aquired an engine 0-4-0 and one car a couple of years back. I Do want to get some trackwork going. So my intent is to do a little diorama that is some terrain with a bit of track that I can incorporate into a small layout later.

So . . . I need some stainless steel track in a curve and at least 2 ft long. Longer is Ok. where is the best place to purchase ? And I want some extra rail that matches the rail on the ready made piece. Flex track or fixed curve either one could be Ok.

Thanks in advance for pointing me the right way :slight_smile:

What I have currently : www.drBurkholter.com/cf24.html

My 2 cents worth…I would buy a 5’ section of AMS narrow guage 250 brass flex. You will have enough track to do your diarama and some extra rail left over and when you expand you know you can get more of the same.

Randy, . . . Thanks for the input. I’ll have a look at it. I’d gathered from verious posts that Stainless Steel rail is the best. Is it really the best to have ? If so I want to start out with it.

What’s best depends a lot on where you are going to use it and how.

If you are planning on running track power outdoors in all but dry climates, Stainless is a good choice. I am in New England and have had stainless outdoors for over 5 years. I use the standard Aristo screw joiners except I changed the screws to larger head Phillips screws. At switches and a few other places I use Split-Jaw rail clamps. I have had no power problems to speak of and the track only requires wiping with a soft cloth to clean. The negatives of stainless is that it looks terrible unless painted; it’s the most expensive track, and it’s harder to bend and cut (but not too hard).

I am slowly converting to battery power. Since you presently only have one loco, starting with battery power can save you a lot of money on track and power supplies plus saving lots of time and effort because no wiring is needed. For battery power you can select cheap aluminum rail - or even make your own with wood :smiley:

If looks are your primary concern, then select a rail that is smaller than the common code 332. Code 250 Nickle Silver will give most of the advantages of stainless in a smaller profile.

Brass is tried and true. It conducts electricity well but needs constant cleaning in most climates for track power. If you are going to start with a small loop the maintenance of brass may be worth the cost savings over stainless. In my opinion the Aristo & USA brass is way too yellow and never really darkens up. Older LGB rail will darken with age and look quite good. Piko says their brass formula is the same as the old LGB, but be careful of their non-standard geometry.

I agree with Jon but since you are in a desert climate like ours brass works fine and needs very little cleaning. I also like the way it weathers.

Jon, . . . . Thank you for the input. I’m looking to have an indoor layout (sic) that is several “dioramas” which are about 2 1/2 to 3 ft. long and are joined by tracks running thru bookcases between the dioramas. Each scene having tunnel entrances at each end. So the outdoor problems don’t exist for me. Looks is the primary concern for the rail as well as electric for operation. I’m intending to modify my 0-4-0 and gondola to be a 1in scale, 2ft narrow gauge loco pushing a “mine car”. I’ll also build a “tender” on one of the trucks of the tender that came with the 0-4-0. I’ll be about like a “Farney” but with the little “tender” articulated from the cab. The track would be 2 ft. gauge at a scale of 7/8 in to the foot. But there is lots of “stuff” available from doll house suppliers in 1 in. scale. I’ve alread begun to collect an assortment of “stuff” … ie. tools, shovels, paint buckets, etc. in 1in. scale. It is my intention to paint and “age” the rail and to eventually hand lay on wooden ties. It is to be a mountain mining camp railroad with each “diorama” being short and very shallow, but with mountain scene going from near the floor to the sceiling. So presently I intend to start conversion of the 0-4-0 to an open cab 1 in. scale 2 ft. gauge and doing the track work for one diorama.

Thank you all again for all input.

Narrow Gauge Lover

Interesting concept you are planning. Looking forward to seeing your progress.
Ralph

Narrow [or is it Gauge ? I’m not going to call you Lover :slight_smile: ]…

For that application I’d go with code 250 in either Nickel Silver or brass.

Thank you very much for all comments posted.

A question, . . . why Nickle Silver Rail rather than Stainless steel ? What is the advantage ?

I’m looking to soon order 6 ft of code 250 rail and “narrow gauge” ties along with a quarter pound of spikes from Sunset Valley RR. That’ll give me something to “play with” long with converting the engine to 1 in. scale. I find I can get nice clear grained 3/4 x 3/4 in. wood at Home Depot that I can run thru the band saw to make ties that are scale 8 inch wide. They will be low profile.

I’m looking to finally doing some RAILROADING ! :slight_smile:

Hey NG Lover,
The NS rail will eventually age/weather/tarnish to a nice patina, the stainless won’t at all. NS holds paint pretty well, stainless not worth a damn, since you intend to paint the rail and hand lay you might want to consider saving yourself a ton of money and going with brass. I wouldn’t recommend aluminum for indoor use, seems to build a lot of residue that doesn’t happen outdoors.

I am with Jon, how about a name, calling you lover just doesn’t get it.

Of course, all this is just my opinion.
Rick

Hey, what happened to my post?

It was useful!

the person previously known as tac on some fora and by his REAL, difficult to pronounce unless you are a native Irish-speaker name on a few others but who nevertheless prefers to use the ‘EEZY-SPEL’ version of his name on this forum for sheer convenience

Rick Marty said:
Hey NG Lover, The NS rail will eventually age/weather/tarnish to a nice patina, the stainless won't at all. NS holds paint pretty well, stainless not worth a damn, since you intend to paint the rail and hand lay you might want to consider saving yourself a ton of money and going with brass. I wouldn't recommend aluminum for indoor use, seems to build a lot of residue that doesn't happen outdoors.

I am with Jon, how about a name, calling you lover just doesn’t get it.

Of course, all this is just my opinion.
Rick


Rick, . . thanks much for the advise. That is the kind of stuff that I didn’t know and need to know. I’ll order nickle silver. In regards to brass rail . . for the small amount of track work that I ever intent to have the cost of rail isn’t a sigificant factor.

It is Ok to refer to me as NGL :slight_smile:

Narrow Gauge Lover said:
It is Ok to refer to me as NGL :)
That's just too difficult to pronounce, so from this day forward you shall be NiGeL :D

And if he goes battery do we call him NiCad?

Jon Radder said:
Narrow Gauge Lover said:
It is Ok to refer to me as NGL :)
That's just too difficult to pronounce, so from this day forward you shall be NiGeL :D
We could call him "Major". Col. Klink always dreaded a visit from the Major :) Ralph

SCHULTZ!!!