Large Scale Central

Heisler and Climax upgrades

Modeling
#1

Not sure where to post this, so thought I’d try Modeling.

This shows my Climax and Heisler side-by-side with oil bunkers and headlights moved off the stupid roof. I HATE that.

This is a side view of the Heisler. The one I got when they came out had no oil bunker, air pump or air tanks. I’ve been collecting and installing parts for several years, had the pump and tanks, JUST got the oil bunker, decided to convert it and put it in service. Most of my engines have oxide roofs, ALL are oil burners. Last coaling tower was razed about 6 months ago.

This is the old Climax. I still have to do the roof on this one. One of Chuck Meckem’s oil bunkers. I did an antenna mod a couple of weeks ago, while I had the roof off I yanked the headlight and moved it. I also many years ago shortened the coupler mounts by I think 3/8", so they don’t stick out like Jimmy Durante’s nose. I gotta remove the “Pardee” lettering on the Heisler, maybe talk to Stan about smaller CCRy decals for these… TOC

#2

How did you cover the holes in the top of the roofs?

#3

Tape!

I put black electrical across the top, then mix JBQuick and fill from the bottom, let it set overnight (or at least a couple of hours), pull the tape, file and sand, either touch up or repaint with red oxide like the Heisler.

TOC

#4

Nice TOC , but are you part of the high oil prices lately ? quote toc ,
ALL are oil burners. Last coaling tower was razed about 6 months ago , perfect timeing .
:slight_smile:

#5

Coal miner’s strike.
AFL/CIO killed off the cheap on-line coal.
Cost too much to bring it in.

#6

I like your loco stable, David; but they would look so much better with a Kaydee coupler mod on the “Pin”…but then I know by saying this it opens a whole can of worms…!!!

#7

Yeah, I did that once.
Hard, but it worked.

Used that “pin” to open a can…of worms…

#8
Curmudgeon said:
Coal miner's strike. AFL/CIO killed off the cheap on-line coal. Cost too much to bring it in.
Ummm that would be the UMWA, Just ask any West Virgininan.......Stuff practically grows on trees round these parts!
#9

Pretty good looking engines there pal , you do get time for a bit of modelling then ? We need to see more of your stuff .
Mike

#10

I keep busy.
Sometimes I take a couple of days “off” just to finish up some projects.

I gotta drag out SPNG #8 and finish it.

I haven’t the time or inclination for scratchbuilding anymore, heavy mods mostly.

#11

Yep , know the feelin’ .But you’re doing OK there , they really do look different from my non modded ones , and when I am finished my current project , I may have a bash at the same . I hope to achieve at least half as good as yours .
Mike

ps forgot to mention–the trick with tape and filler is a good old one from way back , I used it on model tanks ages ago . Useful trick . Funny how we take things like that for granted .
Any other tips ? I got one --put a round swiss file in a reversible hand drill and use it to open small holes by running slow backwards .

#12

I decided after seeing your picture TOC to take the roof off the Shay and paint it. What a pain getting it back on!!!

#13

Dave, how does one get the roof off the Heisler? I see 4 screws in the front but none in the back.

#14

Two tiny screws (identical to the 4 in front), on the SIDES.

Gotta look, they screw into the rear window assembly from the sides.

TOC

#15

I buggered something up. I just re-attached the roof of the Heisler after painting it and now the rear light doesn’t work. I lifted the roof back up a bit to confirm that the contacts are aligned but still no rear light. Any thoughts?

#16

Did you remove the light?

If so, since it’s an LED, it might be backwards.

Otherwise, the two clips on the underside of the roof may have been moved (rotated on the screw), or the contacts in the back header may have been shifted.

Usually not a problem, but you never know.

Masking tape residue?

#17

I left the light on the roof and covered the lens and the contacs with painters tape. Yeah, I checked the contacts and they seem to be aligned alright.

#18

Had this problem with Shay #5 when we detailed the cab…

Sometimes when you reinstall the roof, even though the screws go in and the roof looks seated, it’s not, though it’s only off a fraction, just enough to keep the contacts from hitting. A little creative flexing usually does the trick. Some of that conductive stuff on the contacts will sometimes help, though you want to make sure you don’t get carried away and cross it up by using too much. For me, all we had to do was bend the wall contacts up just a bit so they made more positive contact with the ones from the roof.

Matthew (OV)