Has anyone 3D printed ties?

[Hines (Bill)]

Neil you might consider just scaling the grain STLs down and printing the top of those STLs to see how it looks first. I suspect you will have to run your top layers quite thinly, to get a decent pattern. From what I’m reading the wood grain prints better on the vertical sides of the FDM print.

I’m just throwing these ideas out here… as I suspect there may be local knowledge on the processes below.

Considering the size of your layout you might consider some potential time saving options.

• You might be able to etch a wood grain onto a piece of flat piece of metal and attach it to a decent soldering iron to transfer a wood grain embossing pattern onto a simple flat 3d printed surface.

• You might find using a wood burning set to hand melt and draw the pattern into the plastic.

• You could even use 100% high-density polyethylene (HDPE) UV stabilised planks (used for boardwalks in national parks). Cut them to size and embossing them with a hot embossing tool. Potentially I wondering if the plank might be embossed then just run through the saw.

Just some ideas to ponder…

[Todd_Brody]

If you do as I suggested with a single piece for the fish plates and two rectangular holes to come up through, there is no gluing involved.

[JRad (Jon Radder)]

Yep - I was going to say that too. If designed correctly, the rail holds the tie plates tight against the tie.

[ctown2 (Craig Townsend)]

There’s rattle can clear coat that has UV protection. That’s what I spray over anything that goes outside. Not sure if it actually does anything.

[Rick_Marty]

@ctown2

here’s rattle can clear coat that has UV protection. That’s what I spray over anything that goes outside. Not sure if it actually does anything.

Yea, Krylon #1311 Clear Matte sealer for art work works great, been using it for years.

[Todd_Brody]

I am printing a new stairway out of ASA as I type, not that I should be in the room which is being actively vented. Definitely harder to use than PLA and way more flexible.

[Neil_Wiggins]

@Todd_Brody

My suggestion…, print the ties as two parts. Leave an open square in the “wood” for the fish plate and print the tie like an AristoCraft tie with the top down on the plate for texture.

Gotcha. Sorry missed that first time reading through Todd. Excellent idea.

Cheers
N

[Todd_Brody]

Looks like the trick to ASA is to turn on the “ironing” way up, otherwise the pieces seem to come out too porous. Also, the bed needs to be a bit hotter ('m running 100 C), and the chamber needs to be warm. There is a lot to consider in 3D printing.

You Won't Believe the Smooth Finish Ironing Gives to 3D Prints

[Todd_Brody]

100% ironing took what was a 22 minute job to almost 4 hours, but makes a real difference! There is no seeing through this, the weight is up, and it is much more rigid. But 100% leaves more clean-up from excess. Because 50% actually looked pretty good, I’ll try 80%.

There is a lot of experimentation to get things the way you want them.

[Hines (Bill)]

We 3D Printed a Model Train Switch—Does It Work?

This may be of interest Neil.

[PeterT]

@Cliff_Jennings

I was thinking the tie plate / chair could have a post and stab down into a hole in the tie part, like the version on the web site that Bill brought up.

Ah, you re-invented the Llagas tie plugs!

Here’s the jig I made for drilling wooden ties (triple gauge)

And here’s a bunch of track in my garage that is exclusively plugged:

I do like the split plug idea - getting a bunch of plugs on to a 5 ft rail and then pressing them in was very painful and time-consuming.

[Neil_Wiggins]

Thanks for all the ideas guys, Here’s what I’ve come up with so far.

Had to do a 2D sketch in ‘normal’ cad since sketching in F360 is (not yet) my friend. Nothing as good as Cliff’s work so - Fire at will, but be gentle (??).

Idea is following Todds line, one piece track holder with a base that fits under the top sheet of the tie and pokes up through. The rail holds it in place with a lip on the top of the tie level with the rail base. There’s room on the broom for some kind of top sheet pattern there.

Might be a pita holding these in pace while the track is fed thru…

No real idea how printing tolerances might come into play yet - any input appreciated.

Cheers
N

[Neil_Wiggins]

Wow, thanks for finding that Bill. I saw how he made the tops of his rail clamps beefier, something I think I need to do too.

Lotta plastic to print that in G I bet…

Cheers
N

[Cliff_Jennings]

Pete, I had no idea they did those. Thanks for posting about them!

[Todd_Brody]

Over time your track holders may work their way loose and side-to-side forces on curves may let them pull out.

It would be a better idea to make the two “track holders” (fish plates) with a longer, single piece that protrudes up through both holes and also holds the track in gauge. This would alleviate the side-to-side wear on the “tie” portion. And you could extend it long enough beyond the fish plates to the inner wall of the tie so that it would be “captive” within the tie and really strengthen things up.

May also be easier to mount the rails because you can just push the “bar” up from underneath with a finger while sliding the rail through. You could even design this “bar” with a center “push spot” from below.

BTW, if you print in ASA, the best material for such a project, you would want to “iron” it to a solid surface. You need an enclosed chamber to print ASA or it cools too fast and warps. I set the bed at 105C and extrude at 275C.

I’ve been printing a stairway in ASA. Each step is 62mm across, 15mm wide, and 2 mm thick with 2 mm frame supports, so maybe about like a railroad tie. EACH STEP TAKES ~44 MINUTES TO PRINT! (mostly because of the ironing). This is on a Bambu Lab X1C.

[PeterT]

@Cliff_Jennings

no idea they did those

Still do:
https://llagascreekrailways.com/products/1-20-3-scale-tie-plate-plugs

[Rooster]

Still running on over 15yr old Aristo ties here.

Just saying

008

[ctown2 (Craig Townsend)]

I’ve always liked the Llagas the plugs but they are way to big for 1/29. I had dreams at one point of doing something similar with the correct 1/29 size and thus leaning towards prototype 29 width track.

[Todd_Brody]

My Aristo ties are 28 years in the CA sun/smog. Many have turned to the consistency of Oreo cookies and are ready for replacement. If you were to pull up on the rail, it comes right off taking out the fish plates and the ties will crumble.

Some did this years ago and have been replaced. Some are still fine. At just 15 years, I don’t think any needed replacement yet.

Just saying

[Cliff_Jennings]

Fascinating. And affordable.

I’ll guess that they are only offered for code 250 rail, which – unless I missed it – Neil can’t use.

Otherwise, it sure seems like a nice alternative to printing the entire tie.