Has anyone 3D printed ties?

[Hines (Bill)]

Neil you might consider just scaling the grain STLs down and printing the top of those STLs to see how it looks first. I suspect you will have to run your top layers quite thinly, to get a decent pattern. From what I’m reading the wood grain prints better on the vertical sides of the FDM print.

I’m just throwing these ideas out here… as I suspect there may be local knowledge on the processes below.

Considering the size of your layout you might consider some potential time saving options.

• You might be able to etch a wood grain onto a piece of flat piece of metal and attach it to a decent soldering iron to transfer a wood grain embossing pattern onto a simple flat 3d printed surface.

• You might find using a wood burning set to hand melt and draw the pattern into the plastic.

• You could even use 100% high-density polyethylene (HDPE) UV stabilised planks (used for boardwalks in national parks). Cut them to size and embossing them with a hot embossing tool. Potentially I wondering if the plank might be embossed then just run through the saw.

Just some ideas to ponder…

[Todd_Brody]

If you do as I suggested with a single piece for the fish plates and two rectangular holes to come up through, there is no gluing involved.

[JRad (Jon Radder)]

Yep - I was going to say that too. If designed correctly, the rail holds the tie plates tight against the tie.

[ctown2 (Craig Townsend)]

There’s rattle can clear coat that has UV protection. That’s what I spray over anything that goes outside. Not sure if it actually does anything.

[Rick_Marty]

@ctown2

here’s rattle can clear coat that has UV protection. That’s what I spray over anything that goes outside. Not sure if it actually does anything.

Yea, Krylon #1311 Clear Matte sealer for art work works great, been using it for years.

[Todd_Brody]

I am printing a new stairway out of ASA as I type, not that I should be in the room which is being actively vented. Definitely harder to use than PLA and way more flexible.

[Neil_Wiggins]

@Todd_Brody

My suggestion…, print the ties as two parts. Leave an open square in the “wood” for the fish plate and print the tie like an AristoCraft tie with the top down on the plate for texture.

Gotcha. Sorry missed that first time reading through Todd. Excellent idea.

Cheers
N

[Todd_Brody]

Looks like the trick to ASA is to turn on the “ironing” way up, otherwise the pieces seem to come out too porous. Also, the bed needs to be a bit hotter ('m running 100 C), and the chamber needs to be warm. There is a lot to consider in 3D printing.

You Won't Believe the Smooth Finish Ironing Gives to 3D Prints

[Todd_Brody]

100% ironing took what was a 22 minute job to almost 4 hours, but makes a real difference! There is no seeing through this, the weight is up, and it is much more rigid. But 100% leaves more clean-up from excess. Because 50% actually looked pretty good, I’ll try 80%.

There is a lot of experimentation to get things the way you want them.