Large Scale Central

Hartland Tender Question

Modeling Motive Power
#1

I’ve just converted my Hartland Lilly Belle to RC/Battery. I’m very happy with how it runs, however I do need to put some weight in front and figure out how to get the headlight to light up with all the electronics in the tender…

With that said I have discovered that I am not able to screw down the top of the tender because the speaker I’ve placed in it covers the original center section where a long bolt tied everything together. There are holes in the back for screws but there is nothing for them to attach too. What have any of you done to solve this?? Add plastic and drill screw holes?? How has it worked out for you??

I appreciate any suggestions.

Richard

#2

I just carved up a piece of blue foam insulation, painted it black and glued some coal chunks to it. I didn’t like the looks of the plastic caol load anyway. I also added "hungry boards to the tender sides to raise it up a bit.

Since I have to lift this off to turn the loco on, it pretty lite weight.

#3

My local Ace hardware sells threaded nylon bushings/spacer that take a #6 bolt. One could glue them in the corners of the tender tank and drill a hole through the deck and screw through the bottom of the tender deck.

they look like these.

#4

I think you will find that gluing nylon is problematic, you really want to secure it mechanically.

You could also get the threaded standoffs in aluminum and epoxy them in place.

Greg

#5

Greg Elmassian said:

I think you will find that gluing nylon is problematic, you really want to secure it mechanically.

You could also get the threaded standoffs in aluminum and epoxy them in place.

Greg

For the nylon I have used CA glue with no problems so far. Though metal would do the same thing. What is your experience with gluing nylon? does it not stick or something? I ask with genuine curiosity because I have used this several times now at key points in projects and don’t want failure down the road. I have used this method for the pivot of the pilot truck on my loco and for the tender shell and the pedestals on my cars.

#6

While I agree with Greg I have have success with LOCTITE® EPOXY PLASTIC BONDER. No failures yet!

#7

I offer this from a company that produces adhesives and this is specifically relating to Nylon.

Nylon Adhesives, Nylon Glue, Nylon Bonding

For both large and small production needs that require nylon adhesives, go with Cyberbond. Nylon, the common name for polyamide thermoplastic, is strongly bonded by many different types of common adhesives. The nylon adhesives which will work best are cyanoacrylates (which work without the need for any primer) and UV-curables. Cyberbond is known for offering nylon glue which remains consistent in quality for all of your nylon bonding needs throughout production for your business.

So they recommend CA for nylon bonding and I have found so far atleast that it works. i would like to hear if people have found that CA does not bond nylon adequately.

#8

Thanks for the suggestions…I’ll have to take a trip to my local Ace or HD to see what they have.

Richard

#9

I seldom have bonded nylon, but I try and rough it up, like I do with any plastic surface, before bonding. It gives the glue some tooth to bite into. Nylon doesn’t rough up as much as other plastics, but I figure once the shine is gone, its at least got some tooth for the glue to hang onto.