Large Scale Central

Handlaying switches and have a few questions

Well, I started handlaying track and figured what the heck why not try a switch or twelve? So my main question is, for those out there that hand lay switches, how do you make your points? I have seen some that are like prototypical switches where the points are solid track all the way to the frog. I started making mine more like Aristo or LGB switches where the points have a pivot point in them. The type of switch mechanism i use won’t work with the solid rail type. So, what does everyone else do? Oh, and sorry if i used some wrong terms :slight_smile:
For the record I am using code 332 aluminum rail.
Thanks in advance for any help.
Terry

I made my first ones using the method here: http://www.bigriverlines.com/Modelmaker/Big_River_Lines_site/BRRR/Building_a_Switch/text.html#anchor293307

I’m afraid I quickly tired of making points and frogs and ended up buying already made ones.

This is also a good site: http://members.shaw.ca/sask.rail/construction/lsbuild/lsswitch.html

I would love to buy a switch kit but unfortunatly, i haven’t found any in 332. If I’d have known then what i wanted to do now, i would have never bought 332, but i have so much of it i can’t justify starting over. I was also thinking about using 250 switches with my 332 track but 6 rail clamps that convert 250 to 332 on each switch really adds to the cost. And to be quite honest, i’m building switches by hand to save some money, not because i really want to.
Thanks for the links, i’m gonna give them a good look over.
Terry

One more “How to” from my hobby website. Rail is 215 and the point rails are being bent.

For 332 track I’ve done it both ways, with a pivot point and as a solid rail. I’ll use the solid rail method when I build the frog myself. Lately I’ve been using precast frogs so on those there is a pivot point. I haven’t been able to tell any difference in the performance with either solid or pivoting points. I don’t handlay my track but I do make my own turnouts. Some times you want to put one in a spot where a pre made turnout would be just to inconvenient like on a curve. Plus it’s also a real cost saver.

(http://i253.photobucket.com/albums/hh58/rgseng/0801310009.jpg)

This curved turnout has a precast frog so the points on this one have a pivot point on them. The one just to the right out of the picture has a solid rail frog and the points are one piece(no pivot).

I use something similar to slide on rail joiners I make from sheeet brass bent around the rail foot and squeezed in place…

Bruce Chandler said:
I made my first ones using the method here: http://www.bigriverlines.com/Modelmaker/Big_River_Lines_site/BRRR/Building_a_Switch/text.html#anchor293307

I’m afraid I quickly tired of making points and frogs and ended up buying already made ones.

This is also a good site: http://members.shaw.ca/sask.rail/construction/lsbuild/lsswitch.html


Bruce
Thanks for the links regarding building switches. I’m planning on building one ( and only one ) stubb switch. ( if / when I hopefully come up with the time to do some railroading. )