Large Scale Central

Handlaid Track Parts Source needed

Track and Trestles
#1

No, I haven’t lost my mind, at least no more than usual. I’m not giving up using Llagas prefabbed Code 250!

Need to build a bridge deck for an iron deck girder bridge. For that, I will need:

  • Varying length scale ties (The bridge will have normal “bridge ties” and every few a longer one to support a walkway.
  • Long stringers in scale for guard timbers.
  • Tie plates suitable for Llagas 250 rail
  • Spikes
  • Probably some planking for the walkways… hoping the source of scale ties might also have some scale lumber, as I’m not set up to make it myself.

And, anyone with information about spacing, specs, standards, I’d love to fill in some of the blanks… Richard, what’d you use for yours?

Finally, is there a “right way” to attach the walkway railing posts?

Matthew (OV)

PS. A lot of my questions could probably be answered with a good close up photo of a prototype bridge, or even one of those GMM decks (which is too small for me to actually use, but would make a pretty good example to follow.)

#2

Matthew (OV)
You can get tie plates and spikes from Switchcrafters. (http://www.switchcrafters.com/ez-catalog/X381875/16)

I’d HIGHLY recommend the Spiker for 3/8" spikes. (http://www.switchcrafters.com/ez-catalog/X381875/16/TS375) But, this might be overkill if you’re not going to spike more than one bridge.

What sort of wood do you want to use? NorthwestPrecisionLumber has all sorts of different sizes of cedar on eBay. (http://www.ebay.com/sch/northwestprecisionlumber/m.html?item=180908239245&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWNX%3AIT&rt=nc&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649&_trksid=p4340.l2562) I’ve been very pleased with his stuff. He will cut to custom size as well. I’m assuming you have a saw to cut them to length. :wink:

#3
Bruce Chandler said:
....................

I’d HIGHLY recommend the Spiker for 3/8" spikes. (http://www.switchcrafters.com/ez-catalog/X381875/16/TS375) But, this might be overkill if you’re not going to spike more than one bridge.

…


Forget about the Spiker if you’re using tie plates, it isn’t designed/intended for tie plates. But it does a bang-up job when used without the tie plates; the way it is designed the spikes go in on a compound slant i.e. the forces that work on the rail can’t shake things loose. VERY CLEVER DESIGN!!

#4

LOL yes. … that technology we have. Just not a sawmill for making scale lumber! (Though maybe I ought to make a working one as a stop on the line?)

Thanks, Bruce!

Matthew (OV)

#5
Matthew (OV) said:
No, I haven't lost my mind, at least no more than usual. I'm not giving up using Llagas prefabbed Code 250!

Need to build a bridge deck for an iron deck girder bridge. For that, I will need:

  • Varying length scale ties (The bridge will have normal “bridge ties” and every few a longer one to support a walkway.
  • Long stringers in scale for guard timbers.
  • Tie plates suitable for Llagas 250 rail
  • Spikes
  • Probably some planking for the walkways… hoping the source of scale ties might also have some scale lumber, as I’m not set up to make it myself.

And, anyone with information about spacing, specs, standards, I’d love to fill in some of the blanks… Richard, what’d you use for yours?

Finally, is there a “right way” to attach the walkway railing posts?

Matthew (OV)

PS. A lot of my questions could probably be answered with a good close up photo of a prototype bridge, or even one of those GMM decks (which is too small for me to actually use, but would make a pretty good example to follow.)


Matt,
As a fellow crazy hand spiker this is my list of what I use.
Ties- cut from cedar, or if you don’t have access to a table saw Ozark Min. makes scale lumber. I’ve modeling in 1/29 so I get the smaller scale lumber. Comes in 36" lengths, cut to correct tie length. http://www.ozarkminiatures.com/scripts/prodList.asp?idCategory=1238
Stringers- Same as above
Tie plates- hardford products http://shop.hartfordproducts.com/category.sc;jsessionid=FF5840CC2922CC3997F390675B745A94.qscstrfrnt03?categoryId=61 They have both for 250 and 215. Works great with llagas track. They are the only ones that make 4 hole tie plates.
Spikes- Micro Engineering 3/8" STEEL spikes (I haven’t bought spikes in a long time, I get the biggest bag ~10,000? spikes, can’t remember the exact number)
Spiker Pliers- From Micro mark. Well worth the money. http://www.micromark.com/spike-insertion-plier,8242.html

If you want I can send you a PDF of a GN trestle plan?

Craig

#6

Craig,

Thanks … and the plan would be nice … Really what I’m trying to get right is tie dimensions and spacing … and something that makes sense if I do a walkway, so any example would do; overbuilt is not a problem, particularly when it involves using SG size stuff in a NG application, which would have been seen regularly in the latter days of NG.

The track is already in where the bridge will go, so this will involve buidling the bridge, leaving out a couple of ties, removing the ties from the existing track except for the few left to hold the gauge, spiking everything down, and then adding and spiking the missing ties, and the overlap of the guardrails at each end.

Fun, fun.

Matthew (OV)

#7

http://www.historicbridges.org/index.htm

http://prr.railfan.net/standards/standards.cgi

Search these you’ll find the info in here. Drawings in the PRR railfan link.

#8

Ok! I now have my plans laid out quite nicely … thanks to all who helped on and off forum. I will now be able to build a bridge that will look like what I want it to, but still be “plausible” in a prototype sense (even with no actual prototype… and no, don’t go there.)

So part two: What are people using for a nasty black stain that looks like creosote? While the walkway and railings won’t get anything but a preservative, the ties need to be properly treated.

Matthew (OV)

#9

Black leather shoe die 50/50 with rubbing alcohol. Makes a great creosote, but it doesn’t last for more than one season. Being a short bridge, you wouldn’t have to hard of a time reapplying it every spring.

Craig

#10

(http://i253.photobucket.com/albums/hh58/rgseng/3way001.jpg)

I use a wood stain by Minwax called Jacobean but any dark stain would probably do. Then a brush on a liberal amount of Boiled Linseed Oil.

#11

Interesting! I like how everyone has his own concoction: Looking forward to seeing examples of more.

Oh, and Craig: Indoor, climate controlled, weather free railroad … no worries there.

#12

MinWax Ebony mixed with boiled linseed oil slathered liberally on the ties. Looks nasty, just like creosote.

#13

What’s the mix on the two? That’s the second time linseed oil’s come up.

#14

I used one part Ebony MinWax Stain and 3 parts Boiled Linseed Oil. I’m not saying that is the best mix, just that is what I used. I think that I was probably a bit heavy on the MinWax, and could get away with less. You just have to experiment.

Come to think of it, I started with 1:3 in a quart container, and kept adding linseed oil as I used it. It didn’t seem to make any difference. I have no idea what the final ratio was, but it was probably in the neighborhood of 1 part MinWax and 10 parts boiled linseed oil.

I drive my daughter the scientist crazy, sometimes.

One other thought. Matthew, you say that your railroad is indoors (what fun is that?)(did I say that out loud? :smiley: ). Since that is the case, you shouldn’t need the linseed oil at all, since both Ken and I use that as a preservative against the ravages of Mother Nature. Just use the stain color of your choice. Ebony works for me. I’ve never seen Ken’s Jacobean, but that has a nice revolutionary flair to it. :stuck_out_tongue:

Edit: MinWax is a Stain/Sealer, which is fine for your application, but that means that it has something like varnish or urethane in it. Make sure that you don’t purchase the “Glossy” or Semi-Glossy" stuff. Get the “Matte” of what ever is similar. I’m sure that you don’t want shiny ties on your bridge.

#15

Matthew (OV) said:
Interesting! I like how everyone has his own concoction: Looking forward to seeing examples of more. Oh, and Craig: Indoor, climate controlled, weather free railroad … no worries there.

Go with the shoe die then. It looks exactly like the real thing. I got the idea from an HO modeler. Call leather shoe stores to see if they have liquid die. Get black NOT Brown. I tried both, and black worked the best. If you wanted a slightly darker stain you might be able to go 75/25. The top tie was outside for quite a while, the middle tie is fresh stain. This is basswood. I’ll try and find a picture of cedar.

(http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc7/302578_10150365247101912_2072430965_n.jpg)

Craig

#16

All of it looks good! Thanks guys … and open to more.

Steve: It’s fun enough when it’s 100 degrees out, or below freezing. And, at 4 feet off the floor in places, it’s always in “eye level” perspective (though it does make the mountains a bit tough to work on.) There is a window, though, that one day might provide access to the great beyond… but I’m finishing what I’ve got before we do that!
Matthew (OV)

http://youtu.be/WF1LVsnKElU

#17

Oh, one other obscure thing … Anybody know where to get a pair of frog points in Llagas 215? Need them for the ends of the guard rails, if I can get them. I don’t know that I have the skill to make two that match by grinding rail pieces…

#18

It doesn’t have to be perfect, just sorta close. They (the guard rails) really don’t even have to meet.