My winter projects include hand laying two sections but I have a question.
Out here in the desert southwest I considered using pressure-treated ties but due to the ground heat in the summer I decided against wood due to shrinkage.
How about cutting ties from some of that “plastic” they are marketing? I know I can get some 1x6 at Home Depot I can cut up. Are there any problems with nailing?
The plastic decking material is often VERY hard to nail into and has greater expansion and contraction properties than wood. It is otherwise stable, but may contain bits of nail, etc. from the grinding process used on the used lumber which is is made with. I don’t know if that would be a problem for your application, but does look awful on a newly built deck.
The best decking material I have found, which is also very hard, is Ipe’. A Brazilian mahogany. It is very stable and very resistant to water and insects.
Find some spanish cedar or redwood…don;t use pressure treated wood…its generally a poorer grade anyways…
PT or the plastic stuff will probably warp, when you cut it into ties. Follow Bart’s ideas. On redwood, don’t get any that has white in it. Best bet is to find an old deck someone is tearing down, they have GOOD stuff in them!
If you don’t want to cut your own, consider Garden Texture. I used their stuff (cedar and redwood) on my trestles and have had zero problems…
Once you get past all the safety precautions and warning about cutting PT lumber, I have had relatively good success with the following process.
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Use PT lumber that has been in the elements for a couple of years (second hand material) where all the PT is dry. Cut the raw material no more than 3 tie length long. After cutting the length let the material sit for about two days. This will minimize warping and twisting.
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Rip your ties to size and cut to finished length.
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Soak all ties in water sealant (ie Thompsons) making sure the ties are completely submerged for about 3 or 4 days. Remove ties and spread out where the water seal can thoroughly dry.
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Because you are using second hand material in the first place, it is already well seasoned. This will make it somewhat harder, so I recommend pre drilling for spikes and I also recommend using spikes that will protrude through the tie. Steel will hold better than stainless, the rust becomes a bonding agent. A suggestion I have not tried is to put a spot of ACC in the hole before driving the spike.
Happy rails to you…
Bob C.
Doug,
I live not too far from you…about a hop, skip & jump over the Mojave river and I ripped down cedar fence boards from either HD or Lowes. By the time you rip them (twice!) to the right dimensions, and cut to length. there is practically no shrinkage or warping. I get the driest boards I can find and then cut them before they have a chance to warp. While I do not hand lay my track, I have built several turnouts with the cedar ties. Pre-drilling is a must and I used Micro Engineering spikes.
Take Care,
Allen B.
Switchcrafters make composite ties see:- http://www.switchcrafters.com/ez-catalog/X381875/31 , also they make a spiking tool see http://www.switchcrafters.com/ez-catalog/X381875/16/TS375 . I have purchased both of these items. the spiking tool I found invaluable when spiking by hand. also I found it was able to spike into hardwood without prior drilling. …highly recommended
Dave