Large Scale Central

Hale & Norcross Dump Trestles

Modeling Technical Modeling
#181

" Rooster " said:

John Caughey said:

" Rooster " said:

Cliff Jennings said:

And, the historical presentation on the dump in October

Really looking forward to that !!!

With pictures and diagrams?

No question mark needed …it’s expected !

Yeah, that’s the main early summer project, distilling various powerpoints, maps, site photos, model photos, historical photos, newspaper articles, even some aerial video into something halfway baked. I’ve got the outline done, all the source materials gathered; just gotta make it the priority.

Just like last year, I’ll post a link after the public presentations, if anyone would care to see the thing. But that will be in October.

Thanks for your interest!

===>Cliffy

#182

Anybody know of corrosion-resistant spikes to secure HO-gauge rail to cedar ties? Can’t find stainless versions, may have to use SS headed brads.

Aaaahh… maybe let it rust, use regular spikes…

But I’d like to give the tram rail it’s best chance, it would be a shame to have the animation shut down after only one season…

#183

Cliff Jennings said:

You guys sure gave me a laugh last night, still chuckling, haHA!

My parents always told me, if you can’t be useful at least be entertaining, you can still get paid for that.

#184

Cliff Jennings said:

Anybody know of corrosion-resistant spikes to secure HO-gauge rail to cedar ties?

Or are spikes the right answer given the possibility of such small spikes to work loose exponentially quicker than real spikes do as wood ties undergo thermal and moisture expansion and contraction.

#185

Forrest, that’s what I’m thinking. But I now have to face the issue of securing these tiny rails; and am just discovering the difficulties.

#186

I’d drill holes in the bottom and solder in brass rods and mount ties to the rails every 5" or so… solder a washer on the back side and file flush and pin the ties in place.

ya gotta get clever beating Ma Nature

edit; of course at work I rarely used the first idea and this is a first idea…

#187

Cliff Jennings said:

Anybody know of corrosion-resistant spikes to secure HO-gauge rail to cedar ties? Can’t find stainless versions, may have to use SS headed brads.

Aaaahh… maybe let it rust, use regular spikes…

But I’d like to give the tram rail it’s best chance, it would be a shame to have the animation shut down after only one season…

Stainless spikes will get pushed out of the tie. The rust actually will hold spikes in place. This is, of course, my experience. YMMV, of course.

#188

John, sounds like quite an effort, but it makes sense. Thanks, I’ll ponder it.

Bob, sounds effective and straightforward; and thanks for the data points. I’ll cogitate on that as well.

#189

or you could use soft shoemaker nails. if you take them about a mm longer than the thickness of railfoot and sleeper, spike them in above a hard underground, each nail will have a small hook at its tip.

#190

Korm Kormsen said:

or you could use soft shoemaker nails. if you take them about a mm longer than the thickness of railfoot and sleeper, spike them in above a hard underground, each nail will have a small hook at its tip.

Hey, that sounds simple and efficient.

#191

Korm Kormsen said:

or you could use soft shoemaker nails. if you take them about a mm longer than the thickness of railfoot and sleeper, spike them in above a hard underground, each nail will have a small hook at its tip.

Thanks Korm, interesting ideas for sure. The nails would have to go in after the wood is assembled onto the acrylic core, and not damage the latter. Copper nails? Hmm.

So while looking into your shoemaker nails, it also occurred to me that brass nails, set at opposing angles, might be soldered to the (nickle-silver) rail.

#192

Cliff Jennings said:

Korm Kormsen said:

or you could use soft shoemaker nails. if you take them about a mm longer than the thickness of railfoot and sleeper, spike them in above a hard underground, each nail will have a small hook at its tip.

Thanks Korm, interesting ideas for sure. The nails would have to go in after the wood is assembled onto the acrylic core, and not damage the latter. Copper nails? Hmm.

So while looking into your shoemaker nails, it also occurred to me that brass nails, set at opposing angles, might be soldered to the (nickle-silver) rail.

So, cedar is REALLY cool, being real wood and all that…but if you’re worried about spikes rusting, I would first worry about cedar rotting, especially if it’s in contact with the ground.

Print some ties in the size you need with slots for the rails. Paint the ties to look like aged wood. You can get samples of any color you want at Home Depot - latex and suitable for outdoors (Lowes is indoors only!)

My experience with wood ties outdoors is that no matter what type of spike I use, the weather will cause it to be pushed out of the tie, requiring at least annual maintenance. YMMV.

#193

found/made pics.

they are not round, but cut triangular.

the shortest ones, that i have (but do not find) are about 6mm. these in the second pic are 15mm.

worst drawback are the heads. needs some filing to let them resemble spikes.

#194

Thanks Korm! I’ve seen those nails somewhere; zinc?

Bruce, I guess you’re now saying to heck with the wood, go back to acrylic? (http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-tongue-out.gif)(http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-foot-in-mouth.gif)

Just kidding, good point.

#195

Just in case you never saw this video. A clever way to do it and I think could be improved on.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=egPggh9X16A&t=2s

#196

Frank, though my current situation involves HO gauge rail (for the mine tram), that was a fascinating video! I’ve never seen that method, very clever, lots to learn from it.

Thanks!

#197

Cliff Jennings said:

John, sounds like quite an effort, but it makes sense. Thanks, I’ll ponder it.

Bob, sounds effective and straightforward; and thanks for the data points. I’ll cogitate on that as well.

You didn’t specify easy, but you don’t have to set the gauge, just do one pin per. Set the gauge when you secure the ties.

Or use HO track with ties removed for effect. Ya want easy?

#198

Cliff Jennings said:

Thanks Korm! I’ve seen those nails somewhere; zinc?

Bruce, I guess you’re now saying to heck with the wood, go back to acrylic? (http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-tongue-out.gif)(http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-foot-in-mouth.gif)

Just kidding, good point.

Acrylic, or 3D print…

Yes, I do like wood, but I sure don’t like how it always needs my attention when it’s outside…

This was my first building outside, looking up from the underside:

The wood did not do well.

The Miracle Chair Company (If it’s a good chair, it’s a Miracle).

#199

Cliff Jennings said:

Thanks Korm! I’ve seen those nails somewhere; zinc?

i ignore, what material they are made of. but they are very easy to bend, although very pricky at the tip.

the video linked was, where i got the idea, how to fix rails on my trestle.

… but i left the nails stick out more than 3mm. got a nice mashinegun sound, when trains passed that.

#200

Frank Matulewicz said:

Just in case you never saw this video. A clever way to do it and I think could be improved on.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=egPggh9X16A&t=2s

And I thought I was a cheap bas… person. I will spend the money for actual rail clamps. (https://largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-wink.gif)

But that is really cool.