Guys,
I’ve just finished my double track x-over using LGB 1800 series turnouts.
I searched the fora looking for ground throw adaptions and came up with a few ideas.
Fa. Phred used a small cabinet lock.
I’ve seen tenmille used.
I like the looks of the tenmille.
Any other ideas or products?
Any tips?
TOG,
Do you have the tenmille’s in stock?
jb
You can make your own for less than a few bucks each.
Bruce Chandler said:
You can make your own for less than a few bucks each.
And they look very nice, too!
Yes It would be very nice to make some of my own if I had enough time to do it. I am telling ya being active duty army and garden railroading is a hard hard trask trying to keep up.
I went with the tenmilles and have been very happy with them. I installed them slightly different than Ric but I actually like his installation better! Since I’m legally blind and enjoy operation with battery/rc theyreally work nicely .
They do serve the purpose. One of the great unknown benefits to me is they keep the flange way open and clean. I think any of the positive throws, what ever make, is that trash does not cause the points to center. I didn’t expect that benefit and you certainly don’t get that with the controls on Aristo or LGB turnout controls.
Tom,
Huh? A safety pin?
Bruce,
Huh? More info, if you would.
My x-over is atop a wide trestle, therefore keeping points clear won’t be as much of an issue. Same with keeping them level.
The Great Northern’s narrow gauge rr, Kalso & Slocan Railway had one on a trestle in Three Forks, B.C., so it is prototypical. (And cool looking, too!)
What about those Ozark Mini’s. Has anyone used those?
jb
The safety pin is bent to push the two holes apart. This keeps the points firmly against one stock rail or the other. You throw it with a finger, or toe.
John,
There’s a little more detail on my web site: http://www.jbrr.com/html/switchstands.html
The step by step is in the Garden Railways for June '07, but they’re really not hard to build. I’d recommend a small torch or a big soldering iron. Brass strip is pretty cheap; I was probably overestimating the cost. I suspect they’re under a buck a piece when building more than a few.
Sunset Valley’s
LLagas Creek and Tenmille
Something like Ph Phred’s
I like SVVRR’s and the Pettibone.
Sunset Valley also sells these for $22.50
So far the most ugly throw is the “Barrel Bolt” one, but it is the least expensive of the lot, taking into consideration the cost of the basic barrel bolt, and the labour involved.
Bruce’s high level switch stand is rather inexpensive, but labour intensive…I don’t have a clue to his cost of brass, but I do know that using Canadian pennies is more expensive than the US ones lately…!!! I wish I had the time to build the number I would need; but for someone who only needs a few and cares what they look like; I’d go with them.
The other comercial throws are anywhere from about $15-$20 each, for the Tenmille ones and up for the rest…here in Ottawa.
If you want the least expensive; and the ugliest; go for the barrel bolt ones…I had to, with the number of switches I have, and I don’t really care what they look like. I’m not about to have the pike show up in some coffee table book of the “Most Beautiful Garden Railroads”.
We needed dependable switch throws that work, and cost very little.
You just have to drill out the bolt, in order to use a self taping pan head screw in the end with two washers. The spring is to compensate for the overthrow of the bolt, and keep the point rail tight to the stock rail. You form it out of a piece of “Spring, or piano wire”, using pliers. form a loop at the bolt end to fit around the screw, surounded on both sides with a washer. Don’t tighten the screw too tight, in order to allow for the circular movement of the bolt.
On all commercially bought switches, not used in a track powered set-up; I strongly suggest the replacement of all throw bars with brass flat stock, as the plastic throw bars are the weakest part of the switches. Use the screws that come with the switches to attach the brass throw bars (And loctite them on the point rail)…predrilling the holes.
Track powered pikes can use strips of printed circuit board, with the metal circuit part cut with a wide gap in the centre while drilling the holes.
Drill an appropriate sized hole on either or both ends for the throw rod/spring.
The end of the throw rod/spring that conects with the throw bar, should have an end bent in a straightened Z shape to prevent it disconecting from the throw bar.
The bend in the throw rod for the spring effect is just a V shape, or you could form the shape of an “Omega” spring. Just be creative…but make the spring large enough that the spring effect is not too strong, or too weak. Too strong will put too much pressure on the stock rail and gradually deform the plastic holding it in guage.
On all switches; if there is the slightest bit of dirt of any type between the point and stock rail; all the “Air pressure”, Spring pressure" or electric switch motors, in the world; won’t properly throw the switch to prevent derailments. You have to get down on your knees and actually look to see that the switch is clean, and properly thrown…no-mater what the ads say…
I hope this helps somewhat, in your search for improvement in switch operation, on your pike.
Phred,
If’n I gets down on my hands and knees to have a look/see at my switch points to see if they are clear, who is going to help me back up? Warren is worse off than I, JB is too much of a feathermerchant to be of much use, and HJ is too far away.
Any ideas?
When Diana calls “Honey Dear”, you will be up off that ground in a flash…
Warren Mumpower said:
When Diana calls "Honey Dear", you will be up off that ground in a flash....:D
:lol:
I had a girlfriend by the name of Diana, once…I didn’t marry her…
…as far as getting down on my knees to check anything. This why I’m developing an “Electric cane/walking stick”…it is to help in such situations, along with one of those garden kneelers, that are advertised in the LEE VALLEY garden catologue.
I couldn’t wait for HJ to make his mind up, and give up following the spoor of local bears, and other wildlife, best left alone; and making a treck here to aid me in my hours of need…!!!
I thought this idea was good , but I have not tried it myself .
in tips and advise , ground throw devise .
http://home.cogeco.ca/~daisybeach/
Its such a realistic beautiful railway
What or who the hell is that? Am I supposed to be pissed or proud, Steve? Remember, I’ll be seeing you in person this weekend…
Never mind: I looked it up…“A person short or of slight build or a person in a comfortable or easy assignment such as headquarters duty or some staff billet.”
Dennis,
Thanks for the link.
With Fr Fred’s ground throw, I still have to drop the bolts off at a machine shop. I got no way of drilling them out. I like the idea of drilling thru the bolt for simple adjustment.
TOG