Large Scale Central

Goodall Valve on 2 Cyl. Shay

Electronics Live Steam
#1

The Shay is here !!! :smiley: Marilyn chose the open cab because A) I couldn’t decide B) She likes the balloon stack and C) To be different than Ric and Bruce.

Royce included a pump bottle and a Goodall valve in the package. Since the 2 Cyl. Shay has no sight glass, use of the valve poses some questions to those that have this set-up.

1 - When cold, do you fill water with the pump bottle through the valve, or unscrew it and fill normally?

2 - If the answer to #1 is unscrew it, is it normal to get some steam leakage at this valve it tightened by hand without tools? I can get it tight enough to hold pressure with a pliers, but not by hand. Leakage is minor, but noticeable by sound and condensate.

3 - When replenishing water while hot with the pump bottle, how do you know how much to add?

We raised the first steam this morning about midnight on the indoor division. I used my swing up bridge as the steam-up location and didn’t notice any mess around the track except on the bridge where it first started. After a short learning curve on getting the fire to light at the burner and not in the smokebox we had a good head of steam in about 10 minutes. The engine ran well in both forward and reverse around the balloon track. The only minor incident was splitting a switch sending the rear trucks down the straight route after the front trucks followed the diverging route. Got it stopped before derailing but did slip the drive shaft out requiring some fiddling.

Coming from a beginner with ZERO experience and only the manual and a YouTube video as guidance, This is a superb engine. Very easy to steam and a good runner right out of the box.

Film at 11.

Jon

#2

Dialing the phone, now.

#3

Thanks Ric - It’s Alive !!! [url=lsc.cvsry.com/Shay1024.jpg]

(http://lsc.cvsry.com/Shay640.jpg)

[/url][color=blue]Right Click Photo and select Open Link in New Window to Enlarge[/color] Ric said he removes the valve and fills without it when cold. I solved the steam leak by using some steam oil on the o-ring and threads of the valve. Now it holds fine being only finger tight. I’m still having issues with splitting facing point switches, but other engines have had problems on these switches too. The Aristo springs are to weak to hold the points closed. Jon

#4

Maybe changing to a Tenmille style ground throw would help.

#5

Can’t wait to see this thing runnin at the invasion. Triple headed Shays…that’ll be a site…:wink:

Tell Marilyn I could use one too…:wink:

#6

Very classy! Fit it up with a Kadee in the link and pin socket or have a good rooster. We’ve had trouble with Accucraft couplers not set to the Kadee height gauge for those double and triple headings. We are talking real pulling power here.

#7
Warren Mumpower said:
Maybe changing to a Tenmille style ground throw would help.
Probably would. I'm thinking IPP&W barrel bolts though. I've got the bolts in-stock and this is in a spot where looks don't matter much.

Jon

#8

Video of the third run on the C.V.S.Ry.

http://www.lscdata.com/videos/view_video.php?viewkey=6fa44e1ed0ff613f563b

#9

Stop that, Jon! You’re having too much fun…:smiley:

#10
Ken Brunt said:
Can't wait to see this thing runnin at the invasion. Triple headed Shays................that'll be a site..........;)

Tell Marilyn I could use one too…:wink:


Talk Bruce into bringing his and there’ll be 4. A Quad header?

Jon

#11
Jon Radder said:
Ken Brunt said:
Can't wait to see this thing runnin at the invasion. Triple headed Shays................that'll be a site..........;)

Tell Marilyn I could use one too…:wink:


Talk Bruce into bringing his and there’ll be 4. A Quad header?

Jon


Bruce needs a bigger vehicle to bring all his goodies…:wink:

Just made the last payment on my van so I’ll have a few more bucks to spend on trains…:wink:

#12
Ken Brunt said:
Just made the last payment on my van so I'll have a few more bucks to spend on trains.........;)
I've got two to go on the Envoy, but I don't think that will leave any extra, just a little less trouble making ends meet.

Y’all might think we’re rolling in the dough, but it aint so. Marilyn received a small inheritance in the fall and decided to spend some of it on me. None left for you Ken, sorry.

I’m happy to be working and enjoy my job, but after 4 years there I’m still only making about 75% of what I was before I got laid off in '03. Been spending about 110% of that '03 income for a long time. Need to make some serious adjustments, just can’t quite do it for some reason.

Anyone want to buy a whole shipload of Aristo/Delton stuff? I need butane & water :smiley:

Jon

#13
Jon Radder said:
Ken Brunt said:
Just made the last payment on my van so I'll have a few more bucks to spend on trains.........;)
I've got two to go on the Envoy, but I don't think that will leave any extra, just a little less trouble making ends meet.

Y’all might think we’re rolling in the dough, but it aint so. Marilyn received a small inheritance in the fall and decided to spend some of it on me. None left for you Ken, sorry.

Jon


Ah well, she’s forgiven.

Just might save up some of this extra for a B’mann K…
:wink:

#14

Do you have radio control on this Jon? How is it on the hills and dales for the runaway factor!
Also,I have completed a limited search…is this loco only available in America? or can it be exported to Great Britain.I like the look of it and if the model works as the prototype was designed,should work well on my intense gradients.
kind regards,
Troy

#15

Nice locomotive. Looks like a lot of fun.

Good railroadin’, . . . .

#16
Troy said:
Do you have radio control on this Jon? How is it on the hills and dales for the runaway factor! Also,I have completed a limited search..is this loco only available in America? or can it be exported to Great Britain.I like the look of it and if the model works as the prototype was designed,should work well on my intense gradients. kind regards, Troy
Hi Troy,

My outdoor railroad has a curving grade that might exceed 4% in spots. The Shay with a light 2 car load did just fine both up and down. It prototypically slowed on the climb with an open throttle and I did cut back the throttle to go down the hill, but no problems at all. A second run shoving (in reverse) a wood hopper full of real rock was more of a challenge. I got wheel slip about 3/4 through the curve and some derailing problems with the leading truck of the Shay. I attribute all of that to too much load for the grade, truck mounted couplers on the hopper and a long shank coupler adapter set in the link & pin fixture on the Shay.

I don’t have R/C but am considering it. With the roof off it is very easy to control, but much of my track is at ground level so R/C would be more comfortable.

I’m not sure what the availability is across the pond, but I’m sure many of the USA dealers would be willing to ship to the UK if you don’t mind paying the VAT. I hear that can be a deal killer for many.

Jon

#17

Thanks for the reply Jon.I’m glad it handles well and I shall look into stockist in the U.S.R/C is a must on my line unless you like steam train shaped potholes in the lawn!
See here and you’ll see what I’m getting at.

http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=Dk9ekNVclEQ

regards,

#18

Thats a nice layout you have Troy - Thanks for posting the video link. I like the transitions from raised roadbed to below grade and back. Must be an interesting yard you have.

Jon

#19

Jon,

I would imagine you are not the first for subterrainian trackage, but when I saw the train go underground I immediately thought of your “deep cut”.

I think the biggest difference is that Troy’s engine comes flying out the other end of the cut.

Troy,

Great video!

#20

Me too. In my case I’d need about 300’ of tunnel, crossing under two roads and through 3 lots before I came out the other side of the hill at grade. Now, if my 60’ Spruce ever dies, I could curve back toward the house in the middle of the yard in an open cut or tunnel, but if I were to do that today I’d kill the tree from cutting roots.

The Shay hasn’t ventured into Deep Cut yet. Filled with leaves and winter debris, plus I’m not sure how I’d reach the controls to stop her without laying down on the ground which is not part of my winter mode!

To bring this thread back to the topic…

I used the Goodall Valve to fill as you suggested after getting steam up. My bottle must pump more than yours, 'cause at 25 pumps I got pressurized water and a bit of steam out the pop valve. My bottle pumps about 2ML per pull. Now I stop at about 20 to leave some room for steam.

Can you use the pressure guage as a guesstimate of when to stop adding water? Right now I’m backing off on water when the pressure gets down to 10 otherwise it takes forever to build back up to 40.

I can also share that it’s not wise to try and prime the bottle by mouth after the brass fitting has been inserted in the engine. My lips still burn :o

Jon