Large Scale Central

Glues

General Discussion
#1

Any updates on glues after long term use? E-6000, JB Weld, MEK, Epoxy, Silicone, Others?

I built several Piko and Pola building last winter (2014-15) and set them out in April, took them in in Octoger, then when I went to set them out last weekend, I noticed that they were starting to fall apart. I used Testors solvent glue that advertised it contained MEK. I guess it didn’t contain as much MEK as in the past.

My plan now is to use a bullet proof glue so this doesn’t happen again, and back the joints up with wood reinforcing. What glue have you had good results with over the long term and would use again?

#2

Steve,

We (Jane) has been using ““Goop”” (doesn’t matter which kind, it’s all the same) on our buildings, with very little or no separation… Most Buildings have been out for 2-3 years, at least… Lately, we have also started using some E-6000, (it’s a bit runnier/looser than goop) on some smaller projects, or where we need it to flow a bit more…

#3

Thanks, Andy. Fred uses it too. Must be good stuff, the guy at the hardware store recommends it too.

Anyone else?

#4

E-6000 is what I use too. Good stuff! (http://largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-wink.gif)

#5

I primarily use the black E-6000 as it is UV safe. But, I’ve also been very happy with Welder (a contact cement) that I use to glue Precision Products sheet to acrylic. And, since a lot of my buildings have an acrylic base I use Weld-On acrylic cement.

One advantage of the black adhesive is you can make it look like tar…and cover up all sorts of mistakes imperfections.

For scratchbuilding, I’ve started using Ken’s technique of screwing the sides together before covering with a brick sheet.

#6

!00% MEK seems to work best for me. I get it at the hardware store in a quart can (in the paint section). That amount will outlast me. It works on most plastics, for everything else I use epoxy from Harbor Freight. No problems, yet.

-Kevin.

#7

Andy: do you use Goop in the “contact cement” way, i.e. coat both surfaces, allow to tack dry then assemble?

Bruce: by Welder, whose brand do you use?

thanks guys, I’m looking to glue the end caps on to Aristo tank cars, and they have paint on them, so wondering what is best, I don’t think a solvent glue is good, because the plastic is covered by paint.

Suggestions?

Greg

#8

Greg,

I think that Welder is the brand…but I could be wrong. Here’s what it looks like.

As far as the end caps go, I would scrape the paint off first. It seems that glue sticks to paint better than paint sticks to anything. I don’t know how the end caps fit; if it’s a friction fit, probably almost any glue would work, even with paint.

#9

Greg, no, we really don’t… Jane puts a coat on one side, and places the parts together… Usually held together with clamps, or bands of some sort, until it sets up… Any excess is wiped off before it dries… Once it dries, we might add another coat on the inside to make a thicker bond…

We have done a lot of Colorado Model buildings this way… However, we go get some acrylic sheets and cut them to size to make the inside walls and windows as one whole piece… It performs 2 things: 1) makes all the windows for each side, and 2) strengthens the walls but doubling their thickness… It also adds weight to the buildings… Yard is mostly open, and wind will roll the buildings around some…

#10

I tried using Goop like contact cement, and it just didn’t seam to hold as well. So I put an even coat, not too thick, on one surface and clamp the 2 parts together. I like Goop, especially for dissimilar materials. It holds my drink can roofs down real well.

#11

I use Welder on my Pola buildings. Along with styrene angles on the insides for gussets. Then I clear silicone all the inside edges. They stay out 365 days a year. No problems. I have a water tower that has been out 9 years and a Pola station 4 years now.

#12

I use a UHE glue that I got a couple tubes of from the old Watts Train Shop, most of the wording is in German. Has held up well on several buildings that are outdoors all year long. Definatly not what the late David Graff used on his buildlings, I have 2 of them and I am slowly regluing walls as they fall apart. I have also used clear silcone on the inside of joints to add strength. Mike

#13

thanks guys, Welder is made by Homax… found it and will try some.

Greg

#14

Thanks, guys. I’m going to the big city this afternoon to try to find these products. The hardware store in beautiful Deer Park doesn’t have them. (http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-cry.gif)I’ll try to find as many as I can.

#15

I think I lost a few brain cells this afternoon. Even with the door open, that E-6000 is potent stuff.

#16

Took some good advise from Mr. Harris on this board and bought a couple tubes of Surebonder 9001 high strength clear adhesive. It’s fantastic!

#17

That’s one of the brands I’m still looking for.

#18

I use E6000 for all my stuff and never had an issue. I also think it helps to use some styrene or wood on the inside corners. It helps give it a little more strength.

#19

I have had really good success using the glue that comes with the Piko/Pola kits. Some of my buildings have been outside for 15 years with no falling apart. One thing you have to do to ensure a good bond with any of the glues is to spend a lot of time removing the mold release stuff (usually black) from all the edges that are to be glued.

On-the-other-hand, I heartily recommend Welder glue. I use it for all my scratch built structures. It will bond almost anything to anything. 9 years ago when I built my layout I needed abutments to hold up a bridge. I made the abutment carcasses out of leftover PVC boards from my deck and laminated (using Welder) Precision Products styrene material over the PVC. Here is a photo of what that abutment looks like today after 9 years. Ignore that white streak running across the abutment face. That’s a streak of sunlight. The styrene is still holding strong.

Doc Watson

#20

I’m going to go against the grain here and state I have not been all that impressed with Goop. I used it early on and found that it did not hold that well after two or three years of continuous exposure. I still use it but not on items that live outdoors. I have used Welder and am most impressed with it. The local big box store carried it at one time but no longer does but it is available through Amazon.