Bruce, what type of glue did you use in your window article? Can’t determine what to use so the windows don,t stick to the jig even though it has a clear coat on it.
Thanks Randy
I used a liquid cement…I forget the name off hand.
They do tend to stick. Consider spraying some WD-40 on the jig ahead of time. And use the glue very sparingly, or remove the pieces after they’ve set up.
Thanks Bruce, I"ll experiment with different types of glues
Randy
I haven’t built any with the Tamiya cement, but I really like it because it comes with a tiny applicator brush allowing you to better control the amount of glue that goes down. Here’s a shot of it next to a “standard” one.
(http://www.jbrr.com/Pics/Locomotives/EBT/Locomotive/IMG_6753.JPG)
In theory, this should ease the sticking problem. I get mine at Hobbylinc http://www.hobbylinc.com/htm/tam/tam87038.htm
Bruce, does the glue you use hold up outside? I used some stuff called Omni-Stick I purchased at the Southeast Train show a year ago. The stuff says it is waterproof, but it did not hold up outside. All my windows and doors of my Colorado Models fell out this winter.
Ron
Ron,
The glue I use on windows actually dissolves the styrene a bit and welds the pieces together. I do spray all of my windows before I glaze them, as the bare styrene will not stand up to UV.
I’m not a big fan of Omni-Stick. I tried it, but just didn’t like the texture. Take a look at Weld-on #16. It has the consistency of syrup, and holds very nicely. It’s designed for Acrylic, but works well on styrene as well.
I also like the Welder - a contact cement, but I use that for putting the siding on the acrylic. The “Rooster” will recommend the 3M Emblem Adhesive. I have used it, but only recently, so can’t say how well it holds up outside. Should be good since it’s for cars.
Bruce, have you had any experience with Ambroid ProWeld? I purchased some from Tower Hobbies and it say on the bottle that the material is a professional plastic welder. Like Plastruct’s liquid, it melts the styrene. Who sells Weld-on #16? I am in the process of assembling a plate girder bridge to replace two concrete single ones on my layout and if I could find something that would hold up outside, it would save a step of coating the joints with PVC glue before painting. Thanks,
Ron
I use RC-56 or whatever it is called now. I think 506. It dries clear and I have found it hold up good outside here in Idaho. It is sold in hobby shops to attach canopies to RC aircraft.
Ron,
That’s the stuff I was using - Ambroid Pro Weld. I just couldn’t remember the name. I have also bought “Same Stuff” from Micro-Mark. But, they both have the huge applicator brush…good for a big project, lousy for window frames.
I get the Weld on from Tap Plastics. http://www.tapplastics.com/shop/product.php?pid=132& I really recommend the micro tip as well. This stuff just runs right out of the tube.
Thanks for the info. I will get a tube of the Weld and reglue the windows from my Colorado building. I have several other building from them that have not been painted and assembled yet because of what happened to the first one. I do not like the clear sytrene they send with their buildings. For some reason it is harder to glue the stuff down than the clear styrene I get from Plastruct. Not sure why!
I REALLY like acrylic instead of clear styrene for windows. You don’t have to worry about it yellowing, and it adds some more weight to a building.
I wouldn’t use the 3M as the glazing(clear window) adhesive for securing to the frame unless I had 1/8" useable surface(on the clear) or more to work with. Mek or Zap (C/A) would be my choice for securing glazing the frame.
Rooster, I put a good dose of glue to the clear windows that came with the building when it was assembled. But the building was not too long outside when the paines started to fall out. I finally gave up on the clear windows. I figured I would let it winter and find out what happened. I did and the window frames are all inside the building on the concrete pad.
I hope I didn’t mislead anyone.
I’d use the liquid cement, like the Ambroid for making windows.
For gluing together plastic or acrylic building sides, I’d use the Weld On 16. The 3M is good for attaching siding or other parts to a building. Same with the Welder.
When trying to use a glue for clear windows use Testors clear parts cement and it will work on most all plastice and drys clear no matter if it is smeared on the outer edges of the plastic. Later RJD
Bruce Chandler said:
I hope I didn't mislead anyone.I’d use the liquid cement, like the Ambroid for making windows.
For gluing together plastic or acrylic building sides, I’d use the Weld On 16. The 3M is good for attaching siding or other parts to a building. Same with the Welder.
I FEAR THE CHANDLER IS TO BLAME!
EDIT FOR page 2
All of the items mentioned are largely unknown/unobtainable to those outside the USA .
For glazing generally , on my model vehicles and buildings I use white PVA wood glue (outdoor type) . It dries clear , so minor overspills are not a problem . It is best applied to the frame , allowed to become tacky , and the glaze put in place . I also spray clear varnish over the whole interior of the building and glazing .It gives an extra bond and helps repel the damp which inevitably forms on all structures in contact with the earth . Even if you live in a desert (that’s how solar stills work in some survival kits) .
Mike
Bruce, I support the corners of styrene buildings with plastic corner rounds from Lowe’s. The things really create a stable building. On Colorado buildings, I use I beams across the building to support the roof since nothing is supplied to support the two panel roof. Like brass rail, the building expands with heat and the roof falls internally. I have had to rely on PVC glue to make sure the building stayed together outside year round. Maybe the Weld #16 will be the answer to my delima.