Large Scale Central

Getting ready to expand with a question

Track and Trestles
#1

I recently picked up 192 feet of steel rails 332 gauge for our expansion this spring/summer now I am planning on using western red cedar to make the ties out of but I do not know what the actual size it needs to be. So that is one of my questions what dimensional size should they be for 1:20 scale? and is there somewhere I get find the correct info in regards to tie sizes?
Also has anyone else used the steel rails? Is it reasonably easy to bend and what bender works good for steel rails?
Thanks for any help you guys can provide.

Oh yeah the reason for using steel rails is two simple things, 1 it will weather just like the real thing, 2 I am converting over to battery power.

#2

If it’s for a narrow gauge line I make my ties 3/8 x 5". I use a tie from an Accucraft tie strip as a gauge.

Are those rails stainless steel or just regular steel. The reason I’m asking is the regular steel rails will eventually rust away to nothing. There is a guy in San Diego that used steel rails for his and eventually had to replace it all.

This might help you with dimensions:
http://urbaneagle.com/data/index.html

#3

Damn Ken,
Now I’ve got a week of reading to do with that tip. Hope it wasn’t only for Sean.

By the way Sean welcome aboard if I haven’t got ya before.
Steer clear of Ralph 'cause he’s always wanten to start a Rooster fight. :slight_smile: :slight_smile: :wink:

#4

Sean, there is also Switch Crafters who have switdhes and ties in dense plastic and the spicking tool. I would is if you use Cedar make them deeper at say 3/4" by 3/8" Or 1/2" wide. Deeper to give the spikes more gripe. Make sure you treat the wood good to slow down weathering.

Paul

#5

Good info thanks guys. I like the spiking tool, looks like it could make life a little easier going on this one. As for the steel rails it is regular black steel and here in Colorado it should last a while since it is generally such a dry location. I have had some steel outdoors now for around twenty years and it is just now showing signs of surface rust so I am thinking this will be close to the same for the rails.

#6

< Is it reasonably easy to bend and what bender works good for steel rails?>

You will need a single rail bender. (I don’t think a dual bender will work for hand spiked rail.)
You will have to feed it with less pressure on the dies than with alum or brass.

#7

Interesting John, do dual rail benders pull spikes out?

Of course it makes perfect sense to bend before laying it down.

Regards, Greg

#8
Greg Elmassian said:
Interesting John, do dual rail benders pull spikes out?

Of course it makes perfect sense to bend before laying it down.

Regards, Greg


Not sure, but running regular track thru a dual bender, the rails slide thru the plastic “tie plates”.
I imagine it would tear out nails or brads.

#9

Makes sense, just wondering if anyone really tried it.

Don’t think it will be me, ha ha!

Greg

#10

I think hand-spiking would be great for an indoor layout.
Not so much for a layout outside that gets 4 seasons.

You can buy tie plates for the 2 most common codes of “G” rail, and use 4 spikes in them.

#11

I use Ken’s rough dimensions

#12
John Bouck said:
I think hand-spiking would be great for an indoor layout. Not so much for a layout outside that gets 4 seasons.

You can buy tie plates for the 2 most common codes of “G” rail, and use 4 spikes in them.


Bart, do you have any trouble with your hand-spiked track and turnouts?

#13

Life is too short for hand laying track, if you are talking of more than 6 feet of track…!!!

#14

The real railroads seldom use more than two spikes to a tie plate…

#15
Steve Featherkile said:
John Bouck said:
I think hand-spiking would be great for an indoor layout. Not so much for a layout outside that gets 4 seasons.

You can buy tie plates for the 2 most common codes of “G” rail, and use 4 spikes in them.


Bart, do you have any trouble with your hand-spiked track and turnouts?

Define trouble… There is a constant maintenance curve involved, it really depends on how much time ya wanna fiddle with track or run trains…then again…if there’s a problem, just pull out yer track tools for an instant fix!

#16

Thanks to everyone for the input and ideas, I will definitely be looking in to buying the spiking tool tho. Here is the thoughts behind this;

  1. If I am hand laying the track I will enjoy it more (as a whole) and take more pride in my accomplishment as well as learn a lot more than just using (like I currently have) pre made track. Nothing against it except for the cost.

  2. Total cost involved; I am thinking I would rather invest my money into the locos, cars, and operation equipment rather than into brass track.

The bigger side of things is that working nights gives me some good daytime hours to set it all up.