Large Scale Central

Generic 28 ft passenger car

Modeling Rolling stock
#101

Oh no Pete, No way I will ignore all this stuff!. This will all be a great help to make in=mprovements to the many cars I want to build. I realized one thing I failed to do on the clerestory. I did not allow a overhang on the sides. :frowning: . I’m sure few will notice, but it is not right from the photos you guys have generously provided…Love the L shape hand rails. I will bend these today and will be added. Not sure if I will add the plastic piece tho :-).

My next few coaches will just have a arched roof, no clerestory per the ones I have seen online from photos of the time period. Like I said when I started this it is a"generic coach", and with this I have learned a lot of techniques along the way. I am using trucks from bachmann which I know are a little big for 1/24 or so scale. Any recomendations?.

#102

Travis,

Never noticed your lack of overhang until now. But after you pointed it out it sticks out like a sore arm. :wink: You could easily lay a piece of over the clestory to create the overhang. Either way, your car is looking great.

Not sure about the trucks. How much less wheelbase do you think you need?

Chris

#103

Not sure Chris, the ones I have look fine. I know myself that they are bigger than 1/24th lol. Cant reaaly tell it, but it would probably look better if had smaller diameter wheel sets.

#104

Travis Dague said:

Oh no Pete, No way I will ignore all this stuff!. This will all be a great help to make in=mprovements to the many cars I want to build. I realized one thing I failed to do on the clerestory. I did not allow a overhang on the sides. :frowning: . I’m sure few will notice, but it is not right from the photos you guys have generously provided…Love the L shape hand rails. I will bend these today and will be added. Not sure if I will add the plastic piece tho :-).

My next few coaches will just have a arched roof, no clerestory per the ones I have seen online from photos of the time period. Like I said when I started this it is a"generic coach", and with this I have learned a lot of techniques along the way. I am using trucks from bachmann which I know are a little big for 1/24 or so scale. Any recomendations?.

I wouldnt sweat the trucks. I used Bachmann trucks under my cars, and they look fine to me. Since trucks came in different wheelbases, I can fudge a bit…so can you.

#105

Those are nice looking coaches Dave!.. My next few will have that type of roof line…

#106

Installed the new hand end rails today… I like these much Much better!..

#107

Wow, Travis. That looks great! Incredible progress for a guy using only one hand.

-Kevin.

#108

Thanks Kevin, I do have limited use of my right arm. Just have to work harder at it. My shoulder is getting better each week now. Most of this was assembled one handed just more challenging and frustrating. I did have the basic shell of plywood assembled for this project prior to surgery so I would have something to occupy my time… Travis

#109

David Maynard said:

Travis Dague said:

Oh no Pete, No way I will ignore all this stuff!. This will all be a great help to make in=mprovements to the many cars I want to build. I realized one thing I failed to do on the clerestory. I did not allow a overhang on the sides. :frowning: . I’m sure few will notice, but it is not right from the photos you guys have generously provided…Love the L shape hand rails. I will bend these today and will be added. Not sure if I will add the plastic piece tho :-).

My next few coaches will just have a arched roof, no clerestory per the ones I have seen online from photos of the time period. Like I said when I started this it is a"generic coach", and with this I have learned a lot of techniques along the way. I am using trucks from bachmann which I know are a little big for 1/24 or so scale. Any recomendations?.

I wouldnt sweat the trucks. I used Bachmann trucks under my cars, and they look fine to me. Since trucks came in different wheelbases, I can fudge a bit…so can you.

Dave would you share some pics of how you mounted those couplers?. I am going with link and pin. Would like to see how you mounted the draft box… Travis

#110

Travis, my railroad uses truck mounted KaDees. So I can’t really help you with the body mounts.

#111

I had to go searching through my old construction files, but here’s a photo of how I body-mounted a USA Trains 1/29 coupler on my 1:20 business car. You can also see the 4 beams that extend from the car body to support the end platform.

With similar beams, spaced the appropriate distance apart, you can mount a coupler draft box, like the Bachmann, Accucraft, or Kaydee couplers between the beams. Most of my coaches now have Accucraft 1/32nd couplers, as they match the EBT’s 3/4 size couplers. They come with a complete box that you just bolt under the end platform.

The trucks are Bachmann, painted very nicely by Jack Thompson. I would think the USA “Sierra” coach trucks or the Delton/Aristo shortie coach trucks will also work for you.

#112

Thanks Pete!. I will add the spacing of the beams to my notes for all my car builds. That is a great idea!.. (http://largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-smile.gif)

#113

I’m gonna paint the under body today. Should I use a flat black or a boxcar red?..Opinions?..

#114

Pete Thornton said:

For roofing, Kevin and I use aluminum duct tape - comes in big sticky rolls about 2" wide that are used to join ducting for the a/c. Here’s a ‘before painting picture of Kevins’ EBT #20. (Also the prior photo of coach #3 above.)

Here’s a partially done roof, showing how we overlap the tape and press it down smootly. [Not essential - looks fine with blemishes!]

When it’s complete, clean the residue off with alcohol (sparingly) and spray it with flat black primer out of a can. The results can be seem in that end photo in my prior post.

Pete, I read the above post on the roof. I have used painters tape one time and it started to peel away at the edges. I didn’t glue it at the edges enough I guess. I like the look of the metal tape and have it on hand. I also have some very sticky masking tape that is about 2 inches wide. When you prepped the aluminum tape You said You cleaned sparingly with alcohol?. After that did you have to rough up the metal tape to get the primer black to adhere to it?. I really like the looks of it too!.. However, I like the tape too. it gives it the tar paper look with the texture of the surface. I believe it was Dave Maynard who used real tar paper for his roofing. never tried it yet. I think I will wait until I have a building to try it out to get familiar with that. Thanks for all the help guys, I really appreciate it… Travis

#115

Travis, I would paint the underside charcoal, or not quite black. Actual black black is not as common as folks tend to think its is.

As for my tar paper boxcar roofs. I would only use tar paper on something that is not going to be sitting out in the weather. Tar paper is only water resistant, its certainly not water proof.

#116

Well dang, I went ahead and painted it black this evening while it was still sunny out. I guess I could change it later down the road or the next car(s) will be this color…

#117

Nice work, you are going to forever be able to tell people you can build a passenger car with one hand tied behind your back( or trussed up and immobile) cannot wait to see the rest of it.

#118

When you prepped the aluminum tape You said You cleaned sparingly with alcohol?. After that did you have to rough up the metal tape to get the primer black to adhere to it?.

I didn’t do anything to get the black primer to adhere to the aluminum tape. It seems to stick without any problem - unless you let the chickens out to scratch the roof. The alcohol was just to remove any glue residue.

If you look at Jack Thompson’s article, he glued the edges of the masking tape, so if you prefer that look, go for it.

#119

Ok I need some more input from Ya’ll. I am getting to the point where I am ready to start painting. I have not been able to find a suitable yellow in spray which leads to having to hand paint this car. I found a yellow in acrylic paint that I really like and is close to what I want. Now what I am running into is when I tested it on a small section I glued up it does not want to cover well at all. I used cedar for this build. The paint seems to soak into the wood and after three coats of paint in between drying it still does not want to cover it. I am also finding this with a test door cast out of resin. 1). Should I spray the whole car with a clear sealer to seal the wood?. Or prime it first?. Then I would probably have to sand it after the primer coat which would be possible, but a nightmare because of the small areas to sand. 2). Are all acrylic paints thin watery type.? Seems like the brand I’m using Crafts Mart is watery thin, even when thoroughly shaken up. I know there are different brands of acrylic paints out there. I am looking for a yellow similar to this…

or this…

Top car I believe is bachmann. Bottom is at the B&O museum…

So that being all said is there a paint out there that may be in spray form close to these…?.. I’ve looked at Krylon and Valspar and no luck…

#120

So now that my rant is over about the paint, Lets move on… (http://largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-smile.gif). I painted the underbody black. It was Krylon spray from Hobby Lobby Short Cuts cans. These are smaller versions of the bigger cans. It cover very nicely. The wood covered was Cedar, Walnut, and Luann plywood.

I taped off the flooring and end platforms before painting.

All done…

Top view.

I also stained the flooring and end platforms I will post a pic of this as I forgot to take a pic of it… So now I’m at a standstill until I can find a appropriate paint to use for the body… Thanks for looking… (http://largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-smile.gif)