Large Scale Central

Garden Railways article: Screws for spikes

General Discussion
#1

There was an article on using screws for spikes in Garden Railways, can anyone remember which issue it was in?

#2

Octber, 2012, last page.

#3
Ric Golding said:
Octber, 2012, last page.
Isn't that the "If only I'd known" page?
#4

I take it that someone used #8 deck screws…!!!

#5

Thanks Ric. Yes HJ it is. Fred the article was on spikes coming loose. The author used #0 & #1 screws to replace them.

A solid idea for those not wanting to re-push spikes when they heave. I’m always on the lookout for a less expensive way to do things. But in my twisted mind there is a formula to it. It includes: cost, duribility, looks and time all rolled into one. A few things in the article don’t make sense in my opinion. I’m not hating on the guy but it makes me wonder, did he hand lay track for realism? If so why then would he put in phillips screws? If he handlaid for cost again, why would he put in phillips screws at $4.30 per hundred? Again i’m not knocking his choice cause i’m not him but for me and my layout it doesn’t make sense.

I make my own switches and it falls into my weird formula. They are cheaper, just as durable*, look good and I can bang one out in about 2 hours. Onto the duribility part. My spikes heave and I always forget and don’t want to bother with having to push spikes in. I tried using the longer spikes and bending them over but it usually involved disrupting alignment & how the switch worked. Hence the srews. So, I guess one man’s idea is great especially when you can adapt it to another aspect of the hobby.

Terry

#6
Quote:
the article was on spikes coming loose
One solution is not to use stainless spikes, which pull out. Use regular steel and the spikes will rust into your wooden ties and never, ever, come out.
#7

I use stainless spikes. To prevent them from comming out I pre drill a hole and then use drop of glue on each spike/

Using this technique, none have moved in many years of being outdoors.

I also solder on tie plates about every 9-12 inches and use small screws to hole the rail perfectly in gauge on my bridge decks

Stan

#8

I use screws to hold the guardrails in place, what type of glue do ya use Stan?

#9

The issue with spikes popping out is due to the wood fibers acting on the point of the spike as the wood expands and contracts. Roofers know that to keep roofing nails from doing this they must choose a nail long enough so that the point of the nail penetrates the inner surface of the wood. This is difficult to do with spikes unless you use thin ties. Drilling a hole deeper than the length of the spikes helps greatly. I have not tried glue but have been tempted. While steel spikes do “stick” better due to the rust factor I use a lot of PT wood for ties (only recently switching to Trex) and the chemicals in the wood made short work of steel spikes. I also have had steel spikes back out. It’s a problem even the prototype has, take a walk along a line some where and you’ll find plenty of them. Main thing is the spikes don’t need to hold the rail down per se, just keep it in gauge. Popped spikes aren’t really and issue until they are out far enough to hit wheel flanges, With code 332 rail I have found that as long as I have two tight spikes every 8 or 10 ties the rail stays in place anyway. ( I spike every tie)

#10
Bart Salmons said:
I use screws to hold the guardrails in place, what type of glue do ya use Stan?
I use a drop of Zap CA Gap filling CA. But as Gary has pointed out this only works by drilling a hole first, most go all the way through the tie.

I use stainless spikes because the steel one rusted rather quickly.

Stan