Tonight while running trains my favorite go to NW2 stalled out on a switch? I thought dirty track, dirty wheels so I pushed it over the glitch and on ran fine back to my staging area where I met it to clean the wheels. Trouble was even though the rear truck was powered with the front it was not picking up juice. Looks like I might have a burnt wire. So with another loco now on the track to continue the run it once again stalled on the same switch. I got the multimeter out and sure enough one leg of the switch was dead. I removed it and there is a bad contact jumper underneath. While I was pulling the switch I had a train running and it crossed a electrical block section and died so now I might need to put anothe feeder wire in there somewhere since on that section the train always seems to slow a bit and tha is due to a good length of track not being powered because of the block section. WHEW
it is funny how one thing can lead into another and another and another.
Todd Haskins said:Now that NEVER fails ...
it is funny how one thing can lead into another and another and another.
time to look at battery. r/c
Fred Mills said:If I did that it would lead to another battery conversion, then another, and another, and another, and another...several more after that...then a whole bunch more...
time to look at battery. r/c
Fred Mills said:Oh, I look at it :) and then I look at the cost :O and then I look at my bank account :( Retirement? Wot dat?
time to look at battery. r/c
Chris Vernell said:Chris,Fred Mills said:Oh, I look at it :) and then I look at the cost :O and then I look at my bank account :( Retirement? Wot dat?
time to look at battery. r/c
If you write up the proposal just so, complete with a very nice blue colour scheme and plenty of Maple Leaf logos on everything, you could be getting a grant for railway improvements. :lol:
When people ask me about wiring track power, I tell them to NOT connect a full loop, but “break” it with insulated joiners somewhere.
When you have a “loop” then most people will not notice a failed joint until there are two!
In addition, I have an 8 amp load that clips to the rails, and I can make sure that I’m delivering the current I need to every place on the track.
(when you measure voltage not under load, you will get good voltage readings even through joints with too much resistance)
Greg
Greg Elmassian said:And the failed joints are always a positive over here, and a negative waaaaaaay over there. Don't ask how I know this. It is what finally convinced me to go Battery/RC :P
When people ask me about wiring track power, I tell them to NOT connect a full loop, but "break" it with insulated joiners somewhere.When you have a “loop” then most people will not notice a failed joint until there are two!
Greg
I don’t have many… read forums for a long time before I started. Used SS and SS clamps… no problems, and low maintenance. Same with free floating track, coarse ballast, and pneumatic turnout motors.
I tried to learn from other’s experiences… saved me a lot of headaches.
Greg
It does take 2 to tango as they say. and that goes for failed joints to show up as well. Interesting approach to block a loop so it will narrow down where a failed joint is. What I usually do is take a small screwdriver and contact both sides of the joint if the engine jumps there is the problem. For the beginners out there don’t contact both sides of the track or you will have other problems like blown fuses.
I fixed the dead spot on the switch but the USAT NW2 is a different story. I’m going to ask about that in a new thread.
Yeah, what you can do is put in an insulator, and leave a jumper on it, then periodically (or if you have a problem) pull the jumper to test.
That’s my best recommendation, is to check every 6 months.
My track is not wired as a loop, but several insulated segments fed individually. Better power, and “weak” joints show up easily, no hard work to track down.
Will look for your NW2 thread, I have a couple I have worked on.
Greg
Nobody said RRing was easy. There is always something to do. Even the big boys have there share. You don’t see them going to battery power. Later RJD
hmmmmmmm, and here I thought the ““Big boys”” were all battery power… I know they don’t crank those engines over by hand…
Sorry, just had to say it…