One 7500 qty. bag of Micro Engineering spikes for sale. Unopened bag. I bought these then found the stainless ones I wanted. My error is your gain. I’m letting this $130 bag go for $100 to the first smiling customer. (yes you have to be smiling while you respond or PM me!) 
Randy Lehrian Jr. said:
One 7500 qty. bag of Micro Engineering spikes for sale. Unopened bag. I bought these then found the stainless ones I wanted. My error is your gain. I’m letting this $130 bag go for $100 to the first smiling customer. (yes you have to be smiling while you respond or PM me!) (http://largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-wink.gif)
I have no interest yet in buying them from oyu but I do have a question. What are these made out of that you didn’t want them. Are they brass or mild steel? Just curious about your choice and why.
Heh, You know Devon, You just opened a can of worms, and we aren’t even sitting creek side. (http://largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-wink.gif)These are the spikes that 99% of the people out there want, but I’ve always been a bit off. Generally when had laying a switch using wooden ties you want normal steel spikes so that they rust. Yes, people want the rust. Why, you ask? Well people that have used stainless spikes in wood find that after a year or so they come up out. They will do this as many times as you push them back in. With regular steel they rust and bite or bond into the wood and don’t come up.
For my project I’m using solid Polyethylene ties and putting the spike clear though. I will then bend the bottom of each spike over so they can’t rise up. Every part of my switch is made of a non corrosive material and I don’t want the rails to fall of in 10 or 15 years when the spikes rust. Normally buy that time with wooden ties you have to relay the switch anyway, since the ties have rotted away. I’m hoping my UV stabilized PE ties will last much longer than 15 years. We’ll see…
Randy,
I don’t need to open yet another can of worms I can’t contain. You answered my question and I figured that would be the answer I would get. I already embroiled in another discussion on switch construction theory so this just adds fuel to that fire also. I intend to use Llagas Cr code 215(maybe 250 so others can play too) rail and tie stripes for the main track. I am wanting to hand lay my switches. So I like your approach of using a UV resistant tie and stainless steel spikes. Your theory seems sound.
So what is your source for SS spikes? And what about your tie material? What scale are you working with?
Devon,
Re: "I intend to use Llagas Cr code 215(maybe 250 so others can play too) "
Code 215 track works fine with all known commercial brands of equipment. Roger’s RGSEast was exclusively code 215 and on his Open Days there was everything running, from USAT Dismals, LGB, and scale live steam. No-one ever complained.
Hey Devon, I’ve seen your pot siring on the switch construction thread.(http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-wink.gif) More worms the merrier I say.
Anyway, here is the antipode of this thread and my new source: Spike Want Add
As for more on my switch theory and to see it come to life, visit my build log: EBT Robertsdale build log
It should get pretty fun once the new spikes get here.
Pete that’s good to know. I don’t know why I got the idea that 215 was an issue. My prototype used light rail even some 40 pound stuff when it got started. As a mining budget mountain narrow gauge in want that light rail look.
Thanks for the help randy. I will follow with interest. I enjoy the build threads and have glanced at yours already.
Just giving this a bump back to the first page. Still have them at the same great price! (http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-sealed.gif)
SOLD! … to the skinny muchstached man in the corner. Who obviously has much more expansion to do… (http://largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-wink.gif)
LMAO!!