When is the best time to stain/preserve ties/sleepers?
I have just manufactured a slew of ties in preparation for building some turnouts over the winter. Should I stain them and them preserve them with linseed oil now, before assembly, so I make sure that all of the surface of the tie is covered, or wait until after assembly, to assure a good glue bond during assembly?
They are rough cut via band saw, so they have plenty of “tooth.”
Stain and preserve, good glue will work even after the treatment.
Thanks, HJ, that was where I wanted to go, but wanted to be sure.
Just make sure the stain is not also a sealer. Sealing the wood could prevent the glue from really adhering.
So the MinWax stuff I’ve got is probably a bad idea, then?
That’s probably right. Find a simple oil stain that will penetrate and protect some but not inhibit bonding of the glue later. After assembly, perhaps then you can apply a sealer for more protection. I made the mistake of using a sealer on a wooden bridge project and it came apart a few months later. Had to re-glue and add support with a braid nailer.
Rich, at what point should i add the linseed oil?
Steve Featherkile said:I usually pour it on after I install it. It's messy stuff...........;)
Rich, at what point should i add the linseed oil?
I’d agree with Ken.
Mr. Featherkile, where are the pictures, I don’t see them. Remember it’s only true if we see it in pictures.
HEhehe
So Steve can be a bit of a BSer Chuck??? Who would have figured. Pics Steve. 
Steve Featherkile said:After gluing the assembly but before the sanding sealer then add a coat of orange shellac followed by a rub down of bees wax then a coat of stain(if prefered). Then soak the whole assembly in used motor oil for 2 weeks 3days 12.75 hrs no more no less let dry for 7days and rub down with a final coat of Gulf Wax before adding the rail.
Rich, at what point should i add the linseed oil?
Then 3 coats of carnuba wax with a light buffing after each. Then a spit polish.
What are we makin here? an Armoire?
Only the very best for Steve’s turnouts :lol: :lol:
If one uses red cedar and just applies the stain that will do quite nicely. Remember the ties rot on the prototype, too. I’ll take some pictures of a tie that has been out there for ten years, as soon as we get some decent day light tomorrow.
BTW this stuff just isn’t rocket science. 
OTOH after reading another enlightening thread elsewhere I really appreciate the three coats of Carnuba and the spit polish. :lol: :lol:
I think I’ll pass on the Carnuba and spit polish.
Pics tomorrow, maybe.
A lot of good advice Steve. I recommend applying a sealer, whatever you choose, after complete assembly and staining. Or, as Hans suggests, let it simply weather. Cedar or Redwood is my wood of choice. The sun is hard on other stuff where I am, and the cedar/redwood material holds up better. Actually, I stopped adding sealer a year or two ago and haven’t seen much difference in weather separation. By the way, the brad nailer REALLY helps.
As mentioned here are the Ten Years On pictures
(http:///F-PIX/TenYearsOn01_s.jpg)
(http:///F-PIX/TenYearsOn02_s.jpg)
I have a feeling your climate is more or less the same as ours here, you should/could get the same results. PS the ballast is two sizes of Chicken Grit - as someone we know would say “as close to 1:xx as I can get it”. I screened and mixed a lot of variations and this is as close to the proto as I want to get.
Right Hans, if I could only get grey chicken grit. All the stuff sold around here is red. Weird.
I resaw redwood fence boards. I leave the tie the width of the same as the fenceboard, and let the ballast hold the switch in place. I also run a pair of stringers beneath all the ties, glued and nailed with #23 gauge pins.
Rich Niemeyer: All of our chicken grit has oyster shells in it. Nothing is to scale.