Large Scale Central

Fixing Bachmann 45 Ton power trucks

Electronics Power and Sound
#1

This isn’t a new idea - I think TOC was probably first to post that the spring wiper system on the Bachmann 45 Ton diesel trucks was a weak link. Following his idea, but forging ahead with my own method I’ve now converted 4 trucks to fully hard-wired configuration. Many folks here would only need to extend the motor wires, but I do all 4 since I’m still track power. My method wires directly to the motor eliminating another spring contact point, then up through holes drilled in the wiper pads into the loco body. For power I remove the motor traces on the inside of the truck then drill a small hole to secure a wire soldered from the outside to the pick-up pad. Here’s a photo of a recently completed pair coupled with paint stir stick for road trials. I also found and cured a problem with the wobbly wheels rubbing on the side frames for a part of each rotation that gave a less than smooth operation. Hard wired, lubed and with the side frame problem cured with a quick shot with the Dremel - these things run like a dream. Slow speed crawl is awesome :slight_smile: Here’s the test rig…

JR

#2

It’s a little easier if you tin the wires, bend 90°, cut so about 1/4" is exposed, tin the circuit board and just solder to that.
I use Super-Flex, the 26 gauge is 42 strands, 24 is more, the insulation is like natural rubber.
It is used on the center pickup roller on Lionel 3-rail, as it is the only thing that won’t break with the constant curves.
Also found to the trucks on USA diesels.
Just a thought.

TOC

#3

I’ve done it both ways on 3 different trucks…on the Switcher I tinned both…on Toby the Dummy, I tore into the guts of the motor and remove Everything…hardwired to motor block…Dave…where can I find me a spool of that wire?

cale

#4

Thanks Dave - I’d be interested in a source for that wire too. The flexibility issue certainly needs to be considered.

I decided to wire directly to the motor to eliminate one more spring contact. Drilling through the motor pad was a simple place to exit the wire. On the power leads I basically did the tin, bend and tack solder except I added a small hole in the pad for a positive anchor.

Have you run into the side-frame rub problem? I noticed it when free running the truck with the motor removed. The wheels have a bit of Bachmann wobble to them and rub on the side frames once per revolution. Trimming the back of the side frame just a bit gives enough clearance to free the wheels.

JR

#5

I can order the wire.
The only place that has it won’t even talk to you unless you are listed in the Kalmbach Retailers Guide (or whatever it’s called).

There is 24 and 26 gauge, I use only black, but I think there is red.
Not sure if 50 foot sppols are available. I order 100 foot spools.

Rub…ah, there’s the rub…I have, but generally only when the screws come loose, which is real fun to fix.
You have to drill a hole in the cap big enough for your Phillips, and while holding the counterweight in, back the screw out which backs out the cap.

#6

TOC,

I would also be interested in a wire purchase. If you would be willing to source it for us I’d bet there would be praise posted everywhere!

Just let me know what the spool amount is and its price plus shipping.

Thanks

Andre’

#7
Andre Schofield said:
TOC,

I would also be interested in a wire purchase. If you would be willing to source it for us I’d bet there would be praise posted everywhere!

Just let me know what the spool amount is and its price plus shipping.

Thanks

Andre’


Yep, What he said…Thanks!
cale

#8

About the rub… I’m talking about the inside of the side frames. Only noticed it on this one unit, but it might be common. Here’s where I noticed the wheel rubbing on the frame

And this was my simple Dremel fix…

After grinding away a small bit of the frame the wheel wobble no longer rubbed the frame. I’ll check to see if the wheels are loose, but I think they are not. JR

#9

Jon-
I’d like too hear if the wheel screws were loose.
I have not seen one rub with tight wheels, but if yours does, then it happens.
Just updating the mental database…

On the wire, guys, I am uncomfortable doing business on someone’s forum.
Always have been.
E-mail me and we’ll discuss it.
TOC

#10

10-4

#11

I’ll check tonight and report back.

Am I correct in assuming that loose screws would allow me to pivot the wheel somewhat on the axle? If not, what would be the symptom other than rubbing on the frames?

I figured this was just another case of Bachmann cast wheel not being exactly true.

JR

#12

Put one thumb on each wheel on an axle and rotate in opposite directions.
Then, grab the counterweihts and do the same, back and forth.
You’ll see right away.

The wheels are most likely true, the plastic insulator bushings probably are the culprit if the screws are tight.

#13

OK TOC - I did the test.

All 4 axles exhibit about 1/16" of back-and-forth play on the wheels, but the counterweights don’t move - they are locked solidly together.

Is that loose wheel screws, or the normal slop in the bushings ?

JR