Large Scale Central

First attempt at building

Modeling
#21

What sorta spacing do ya use…and do ya just use the fence or ya gotta interesting jig that one might need to copy?

#22

I’m a firm believer in the 10’ rule.

#23

I don’t have a 10 ft ruler…got an 18" one and a couple Yard Sticks though…

#24

David Russell said:
I’m a firm believer in the 10’ rule.

Or at least the 8 Foot Law…

(http://photo.cvsry.com/8Ft-Law.jpg)

#25

Bart, on this example I moved the fence 3/8" each time, no fancy jigs, plain and simple. Pick a cutting width (this case 3/8). Then experiment with the depth first to get what suits you and then start making cuts moving the fence each time. The depth must match what you move the fence each time. Just pick a width and with some scrap material fine tune the depth of cut. It took me about 2 or 3 passes. Then off you go. Pretty fast to produce a whole lot of siding.
Randy

#26

I do not know, with that rooster I think I might want the 100’ rule
Randy

#27
Randy McDonald said:
Bart, on this example I moved the fence 3/8" each time, no fancy jigs, plain and simple.
Wondered about that.
#28

Totally awesome! Seems like every structure I wanna build is either BNB or clapboard…

#29

Bart, what your doing with locos, a little tablesaw work with some scrap wood is a piece of cake for you.I admire what you guys are doing to create fine looking models. I can hack wood up but would never attempt what you guys do
Randy

#30

I used the same method for my little freight shed -

(http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n214/altterrain/building%20projects/freightdepotfrt.jpg)

You can do board siding turning a thin kerf blade on a 45 deg. angle and just poking up a bit above the table plane-

(http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n214/altterrain/building%20projects/passdepot1bck.jpg)

-Brian

#31

Brian, explain your board siding technique a little further, I would be interested. And what did you use for the shingles?
Thanks Randy

#32
Randy McDonald said:
Bart, what your doing with locos, a little tablesaw work with some scrap wood is a piece of cake for you.I admire what you guys are doing to create fine looking models. I can hack wood up but would never attempt what you guys do Randy
Ohh I dunno...... seems like the same skill set, (I've done a littel wood working) all it takes is to try!
#33

Dunno Bart, would like to convert “Annie” to Battery R/C so I didn’t have to deal with track powering issues. Know I would like to come over to the dark side. Cheaper track, no wiring, run the track where ever I want to without worrying about shots, reversving wyes or whatever. A good reliable R/C (read cheap) and run trains. Just electricals for turnouts etc. for swithching operations.
Randy

#34

Randy, the building looks really good. You might think about a outdoor light over the double entrance door and single workshop door if the time period fits.

#35

Randy McDonald said:
Brian, explain your board siding technique a little further, I would be interested. And what did you use for the shingles? Thanks Randy

Put a thin kerf blade in the table saw and then set the blade at a 45 degree angle. Then you raise the blade just so it sticks out a bit (1/16" or so). You will have to experiment with the blade height. Then you just run it every 3/8" or so along your boards. Those shingles are a plastic veneer sheet attached to a Hardibacker board subroof. That particular sheet is the asphalt shingles from Precision Products ( http://www.ozarkminiatures.com/scripts/prodList.asp?idCategory=1297 ) This is the slate tile roof and the new brick on the chimney-

(http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n214/altterrain/building%20projects/pubchim.jpg)

-Brian

#36

Ron, yes I was thinking about lights over the doors too. Probably not powered tho.
Brian, thanks for the tip, don’t know why I didn’t think of it.

One more thing, going to do ridge flashing from beer cans, what color of spray bomb?

Randy

#37
Randy McDonald said:
Dunno Bart, would like to convert "Annie" to Battery R/C so I didn't have to deal with track powering issues. Know I would like to come over to the dark side. Cheaper track, no wiring, run the track where ever I want to without worrying about shots, reversving wyes or whatever. A good reliable R/C (read cheap) and run trains. Just electricals for turnouts etc. for swithching operations. Randy
Annie is a piece of Cake........There are several good basic, read easy to install systems out there. I like the EVO/Beltrol stuff that RCS is producing, uses standard RC gear availible just about anywhere.......
#38

Good morning Bart,
Yes I have spent quite abit of time on Tony’s site looking at the EVO and Elite. Does not seem too complicated, I think I will try it when the time comes. I will contact Tony or Dave and sure if I have any problems they will walk me through them. It’s great that Tony is here often to help us out.
Randy

#39

Well it’s finally finished except for a few details that will be added at a later date. No electricians on-site for the outside lighting. I have learned alot about scratch building with this first project. Some things I would do again and others do different. But the best thing about this project was the cost. Zilch!!! Nothing!!!

Now onto the next one. Hmmm, what???

Randy

#40

Here’s a few pics

(http://www.lscdata.com/users/kettle_valley/_forumfiles/IMG_0145_1.JPG)

(http://www.lscdata.com/users/kettle_valley/_forumfiles/IMG_0146_2.JPG)

(http://www.lscdata.com/users/kettle_valley/_forumfiles/IMG_0147_3.JPG)

(http://www.lscdata.com/users/kettle_valley/_forumfiles/IMG_0148_4.JPG)

(http://www.lscdata.com/users/kettle_valley/_forumfiles/IMG_0149_5.JPG)

Randy P.S. took me awhile to get them up, getting them to re-size.