Anyone have any first hand experience mixing Portland cement with crusher fines, to keep them from washing away? I’m wondering if it works.
I’d worry about sun kinks if the track couldn’t move. Perhaps at the edges?
Haven’t tried cement. I did try the glue method and it only lasted half a season. Look into polymeric sand - I think that’s what it’s called.
well, i only do this indoors, but maybe you could use the same principle outdoors too:
i never glue down the actual ballast, but i glue down dams of ballast on both sides of the track.
- the form of the dam stays firm
- the actual ballast between sleepers has nowhere to go
- it stays easy to lift out parts of the track
Bob,
If you float, don’t!
You have to bust it up for repairs, re-aligns, etc.
Korm Kormsen said:
well, i only do this indoors, but maybe you could use the same principle outdoors too:i never glue down the actual ballast, but i glue down dams of ballast on both sides of the track.
- the form of the dam stays firm
- the actual ballast between sleepers has nowhere to go
- it stays easy to lift out parts of the track
I have thought of doing something similar with concrete roadbed. Create a channel for the track and ballast to sit in. Never tried it though.
pelletized limestone makes a nice glue (Wal Mart actually sells it as well)
Jon,
it works fine - indoors.
i think, it would be worth to give it a try outdoors as well.
I have done it outdoors, out of need.
It has survived one of the worst TN winters in 30 odd years, and the most rain (+14" in a 48 hour period) ever recorded since the 1790s that flooded Nashville.
Method?
Get a good base of crush and run that is compacted, can even mix some portland in it.
Get track running well, level, etc.
Mix DRY crusher fine/underlayment with some DRY portland in a wheelbarrow.
Spread on track, brush, etc, so it is about even with the tops of the ties.
Water in with a plant waterer on a hosepipe (looks like a shower head).
Dries nice and hard in a couple days.
But, with my mix, a few good taps and you can knock it apart, crush, and re-use.
Garrett, whats the ratio you’ve used? I’ve seen 1-1 mentioned, but that seems extreme?
Bob, you are going to hate this, but it is a case of “until it looks right”. Now, some of it is a little less and others are a bit more Portland when you look at it due to my un-scientific methods.
My last round was a bag of underlayment from Lowes (one bag goes a LONG way) and probably about two coffee cans? About a 3:1 or 4:1 mix I would guess?
Honestly, maybe make a couple “test” sections and find a mix that works for your needs. And you can “regrind” the dud samples too!
And do realize this method is just using Portland. And as my railway is European, I use “Holcim” of course!
http://www.hedbergaggregates.com/Products/Default.aspx?path=|2|6|81|361
Bob, I have not mixed portland cement with the fines, but I do sprinkle it over the fines once in place. I use concrete backer board as a foundation to set my buildings on. After the limestone is formed I sprinkle a layer on cement over the fines. It makes a good base for the building foundation. I do mix cement to the limestone I use around the abutments to my bridges to hold it in place. Works well.
I use Cement but there is a caution, do not get it on Aluminum rail as it will cause a reaction. Other wise all of the above applies.
Paul
I use a 50:50 mix of concrete bonding adhesive and water. It doesn’t bond the ballast into a solid mass but into somewhat flexible mass. Sold in gallon containers under the brand name Quikcrete.
Art,
Quickcrete makes a number of products. Is this actually called “Concrete Bonding Adhesive”?
Ric Golding said:
Art,Quickcrete makes a number of products. Is this actually called “Concrete Bonding Adhesive”?
Yes. The commercial grade is “specifically formulated to permanently bond new concrete, plaster, and stucco to existing concrete, plaster, and stucco surfaces. The exterior grade synthetic emulsion is suitable for interior or exterior use and can be used in paint-on and slurry coat applications, and as a primer for QUIKRETE SELF-LEVELING FLOOR RESURFACER (NO. 1249). It provides a strong chemical bond, eliminating the need for chipping, drilling, or roughening the existing surface before application. Concrete Bonding exceeds the requirements of ASTM C-1049 Type 1 and Type II.”
The application instructions say to apply to a surface with a brush, roller, or spray to the thickness of a coat of paint. Those of us who use it to bond ballast use a squeeze bottle sprayer of one kind or another, and whereas the instructions say to mix it one part Concrete Bonding Adhesive to 2 parts water, we mix it 1:1. I apply two coats, because the instructions say that low porosity concrete in good condition requires one coat; porous concrete requires two - and that works well for me.
Interesting, I used to use this product as the primer for leveling floors, when I used to install hardwood flooring. Might be a good solution to keeping the ballest in place so the dogs don’t keep kicking it around.