Large Scale Central

Fastening metal detail parts

Modeling
#1

What do all of you guys use to glue or fasten the white metal detail parts to wooden cars, or wood in general?. thanks!!! Travis

#2

2 part epoxy works well. Some use CA, but I like the epoxy better.

#3

Like Jon, I use two part 5 min epoxy for attaching details, especially if they have no nubs or pins to also hold them.

#4

I like to use the CA and then spray that stuff that makes it dry instantly (forget the name of it)

#5
Shawn said:
I like to use the CA and then spray that stuff that makes it dry instantly (forget the name of it)
Zip-Kicker...........;)
#6

Brass escutcheon pins (20 gauge x 1/4 or 3/8) and PNG NBW’s. I made a little “dipping pot” out of styrene for CA glue. Drill in a dremel for clearing the holes. Same size as the pins. Tweezers or tiny needlenose pliers. Dip the point of the pin in the CA and push it in. I rarely apply glue to the part itself, unless it is a large part. If the part has molded in fasteners, I will clip one off, file smooth, and drill my own hole for a pin. For example, a reefer hinge, box car brace, brake parts, etc. Use a tiny drill in a pin vise for a pilot hole in the part, and magnifying glasses help as well. So far nothing has fallen off of my builds. The parts with dipping tray.

(http://freightsheds.largescalecentral.com/users/jebouck/detail2.jpg)

Box car door parts in the raw.

(http://freightsheds.largescalecentral.com/users/jebouck/detail6.jpg)

(http://freightsheds.largescalecentral.com/users/jebouck/detail7.jpg)

The inside of the queen posts are pinned, the outside are cast in nuts on the parts. I removed the inside cast and smoothed and pinned it. The brake tank has been pinned underneath to the mounting plate and the plate pinned to the beam.

(http://freightsheds.largescalecentral.com/users/jebouck/detail1.jpg)

Pins on these reefer door parts. Can you tell the pins from the cast in rivets?

(http://freightsheds.largescalecentral.com/users/jebouck/detail3.jpg)

Pins on the corner brace. Phil’s brass NBW on the bars and stirrups.

(http://freightsheds.largescalecentral.com/users/jebouck/detail4.jpg)

The outside cast NBW was removed on this middle brace and replaced with a NBW to hold it on. Can you tell which one is cast in and which one is a pin?

(http://freightsheds.largescalecentral.com/users/jebouck/detail5.jpg)

Anyway, that’s how I fasten parts to all my builds. For the most part, the only glue is on the pins.

#7

John Bouck said:
The outside cast NBW was removed on this middle brace and replaced with a NBW to hold it on. Can you tell which one is cast in and which one is a pin?

(http://freightsheds.largescalecentral.com/users/jebouck/detail5.jpg)

Since you issued the challenge I broke out my 10X magnifier on the computer to inspect your picture. The pin is the one on the right, but if you hadn’t told me the slight difference in the stud size wouldn’t concern me if i even managed to notice it.

#8

John B. Thanks for your excellent post, & great pix too!

#9

John, those look great. I also use the brass escutcheon pin a lot - it’s cheap but very sturdy. On my last build, I used the Dremel to square them off, so it looked a bit more like one of Phil’s NB…

(http://www.jbrr.com/Pics/RollingStock/Hopper/ETWNC/IMG_9863.JPG)

Looks even better, when painted. :wink:

#10

Whoa, Bruce. Squaring pins with a dremel? That’s what I call dedicated. :slight_smile: :slight_smile:
Another reason I use brass pins and Phils NBW’s is if they stick thru the wood you can easily snip off the point with a small pair of cutters and smooth it off with a file.
I sometimes use Ozark’s cast NBW’s, applied the same way.
This is if I need a larger NBW, such as beam bolts, etc.
For instance, the truss rod bolts on the end beam, just dip the point in the CA and push it in the hole.
No need to smear glue on the part.

Drill the hole clean through, if you can. Otherwise you can’t get the part (or pin) to seat. It needs room for the air to escape as you push it in.

#11

Beautiful work. Geeee. You guys are way too good.
Dennis

#12

John Bouck said:
Whoa, Bruce. Squaring pins with a dremel? That’s what I call dedicated. :slight_smile: :slight_smile: Another reason I use brass pins and Phils NBW’s is if they stick thru the wood you can easily snip off the point with a small pair of cutters and smooth it off with a file. I sometimes use Ozark’s cast NBW’s, applied the same way. This is if I need a larger NBW, such as beam bolts, etc. For instance, the truss rod bolts on the end beam, just dip the point in the CA and push it in the hole. No need to smear glue on the part. Drill the hole clean through, if you can. Otherwise you can’t get the part (or pin) to seat. It needs room for the air to escape as you push it in.

No, John. You’re supposed to have truss rods that go through the end beam…you just thread the rod and screw on a bolt. :wink:

(http://www.jbrr.com/Pics/RollingStock/Hopper/ETWNC/IMG_9819.JPG)

Well, I did do it ONCE. :smiley:

#13

Same here. Once is enough! :slight_smile:
Please don’t tell me you tap the turnbuckles too.

But I still have my 2:56 tap and die. :slight_smile: :slight_smile:

#14

Hiya John B.: True confession time. No joke, I used to model Sn3. Talk about obsessive. I still have my taps and dies in 0-80 and 00-90. And, yes, they were for trussrods!! Gosh I was crazy. I’ve outgrown all that at last. Now I have fun. Wottarelief. Thank you large scale garden railroading.