I agree with above. I use them in sheet metal so I crush them with a tool made for the purpose.
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Sounds good. I am glad you guys steered me that direction. I knew about them but never even crossed my mind when considering what to use. This is a great idea.
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Iāve tried many different resins and blends but for the last year or so Iāve settled on adding 150ml of Siraya-Tech Tenacious to a 1kg bottle of Siraya-Tech Fast.
That is very close to what Mike is using and I have adopted. I love the āFastā resin as it has given me some of my best prints. But it is not at all forgiving. He is using a 50/50 mixture of Siraya Tech Fast and Uniz ZMud. And he is having great result with detail but still having a product with some flex and is drillable and sandable.
I get this on Amazon: Siraya Tech Fast ABS-Like 3D Printer Resin 405nm UV-Curing Non-Brittle High Precision 3D Printing Liquid Standard Photopolymer Resin for LCD DLP 3D Printing
Okay that makes sense to me. Although I am not so sure I agree with them. I primarily use SirayaTech Fast. Until I started working with blends it is what I almost used excursively. And I donāt think it is at all āABS Likeā. It is very brittle. Its one of the reasons people are adding things like Tenacious to it to get a bit of flex out of it.
Donāt get me wrong. I love SirayaTech Fast. If I had to pick one resin that is what I would pick. I am just a little skeptical about their claim that it is ABS like. Maybe from a strength standpoint I can buy into it being ABS like but it is not at all durable like ABS. But your adding tenacious is solving the problem and I think is a very common mixture.
I have yet to play with Tenacious. My 3D printing mentor has a new mix he is using and I willbe giving it a try. But I do want to get ahold of some Tenacious and play with it. It seems the people, like you, that use that mix of Fast and Tenacious really like the results.
Dan,
What are your exposure settings for the mix? I bought stuff for the mix and an about to start printing again.
āABS Likeā = marketing. Itās supposed to mean that when cured the resin will have qualities resembling ABS. The problem is that itās nearly impossible to replicate the mix, temp, exposure, print speeds, cleaning method and curing to match the manufacturers lab. Which is why some will say resin āAā is awesome while others get nothing but fails. That said, I believe Siraya uses high quality polymers and is more āforgivingā then most, allowing for better results in a range of printers.
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These are the settings I use for my Anycubic Photon mono X although it probably wonāt help you If you have a different make/model printer. I mix the resin thoroughly by shaking the bottle with a couple balls of slingshot ammo, Fill the vat, and wait about 30 mins for it to settle before printing. I keep the chamber heated to about 78Ā°F as tenacious is like molasses.
Thanks. Gives me a starting point to work with.
Do you only fill enough for the print and then refill for the next one or just dump and print until itās gone?
I try to gauge about what I will use but I leave the resin in the vat and If I havenāt printed anything in 2-3 days I strain back into the bottle, clean the vat and refill.
Make sure you are working with a machine of similar characteristics. A 4K machine does not work as efficiently as an 8K machine and parameters are different. When I up graded to an 8K machine I am having to go in an re slice all my print jobs for 8K. Now it would work without resetting them because the machine is faster. But if someone gives your their parameters for an 8K machine and you are running 4K then you will likely not get the same results and possibly some print failures.
Besides the machine, there are so many other factors that can require adjustments to the Print settings. Age, temperature and color of the resin, orientation, thickness, and supports used for the model. Also the age of the LCD and FEP clarity.
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This is why for my first round of prints I used the same brand of resin and printer. Round 2 was Sintra and worked fine as well. So it will be interesting to see what happens when I make a mix.
I probably overkill on the supports but Iāve yet to have a failure because of supporting the model. Iāve tried to keep as many variables consistent as possible for each print.
I donāt think you can ever OVER support. I tend to be heavy handed with them myself. I just had my first print failure in quite some time and it is 100% due to not enough support and lousy orientation given the supports.
I use minimal light supports 99% of the time but place them myself. Iāve had folks comment āHow come you donāt have all those bumps like others doā LOL
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I figured once I get the hang of the resin combination on known prints, Iāll slowly reduce the supports. At this point itās a cost Iām building into the learning and Iād rather have success with more supports than walking the fine line and getting frustrated.
I try and approach the supports like flashing on a kit. It just takes a tad bit of extra work to remove and look nice.
Dan, how are you heating the chamber?
I stuck a reptile heat mat to the inside of the cover and thermistor on the opposite inside wall then notched a back corner to run the wires.
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I went the lazy way and built a box, threw a heat lamp on the top and heat the whole thing up to about 80. Probably not as efficient as Danās set up but hey it seems to be working for me.