Really like the method of ripping wood and the safety aspect also.
Yes , that is a slick and safe way to get that stuff.
I have cut a lot of stripwood over the years and that is about the safest and easiest method I have ever seen. Will be using that idea in the future.
Ron
I’ve used feather boards in a similar manner, but I really like that D Block idea.
Nice video. I’ve used all these ideas to resaw redwood fence boards into scale lumber. The D block is new, but I just used the dogeared portion of the fence board.
Putting the top of the blade into D block is genius!
That is a great video. Im going to use that method for know on. No doubt much safer.
Well then. Thanks for bringing that video to us…man, that’s an understatement. I can’t tell you how many fingers I’ve nearly lost, not to mention flying pieces of wood hitting stuff, in the past. From now on, I’m getting a better blade and using this method. It looks easy actually, just a little extra care for much better results and, look, I still have ten fingers!
When I go to build my covered bridge, this is how I will be cutting all the lumber for it.
Chester Louis SA #64 Hampshire County Narrow Gauge
Love the “D” block !!!
Will be using that idea!
See you can teach and old dog new tricks!
Sean
The “D” block is so simple you wonder why didn’t I think of that!
I used the D block when cutting the siding for my engine house. What a difference and so much safer.
I have done that idea by just clamping a plank over the top of the saw blade…hadn’t thought to shape it like the “d-block” but it works great and very safe. you cannot get your fingers near the blade! it also steadys the strip both as it enters the saw and as it exits it.
I also have a mini table saw from Preac. I use it as a secondary tool to rip strips that I created on the full size saw. I make a strip the width of the thickness of the original board whatever thickness I need, then rip narrower strips on the Preac saw.
Love the ‘zero clearance’ insert…So stealing!
Still say the safest thing you can do for any power tool is to use high quality SHARP blades/bits/cutters/etc. If it doesn’t cut like butter you need a new one or a resharp. I also discovered the occasional wipe-down with a good solvent removes a lot of ‘gum’ from my blades making the cut easier (unplug first!!!). Sure, new blades are expensive, but so is an ER visit.
I finally bought the thin kerf blade. Naturally it was time to test just how far one can push this i.e. how thin a sliver will it cut.
(http://www.rhb-grischun.ca/P1/StripWood01_s.jpg)
0.49mm is .019" aka “thin enough”. BTW the material is Sitka Spruce. And yes, this will come in very handy for several projects that are on the list.
Been working in a Museum Wood shop for 11 years now and this is the first I ever heard of a D-Block. I am going to start using it at the museum as well at home. Thanks for posting the video link. I will even make a smal version for my home made modeling table saw.
Dan S.