i am new to g gage ,what is the diffence between euro and american g gage track ??? will thay work togather ? thanks bobgfla
Both are compatible…The difference is in the number of ties per foot and the “spike” molding on some brands. AML (brand) “American” has 14 ties per foot and the “Euro” has 11.
I should add that you can mix and match but there will be an obvious miss-match in appearance. I use the “Euro” on my narrow gauge layout as the fewer ties per foot looks a little more “back-woodsy” to my eye.
Euro has 11 ties per foot and American has 14 I think…
Mark V said:And the ties are a little wider on the Euro.......... Ralph
Both are compatable...The difference is in the number of ties per foot and the "spike" molding on some brands. AML "American" has 14 ties per foot and the "Euro has 11.
Good point Ralph…Another reason I prefer to use the “Euro” for “narrow gauge” trains.
Just to add the difference euro is also narrow gauge and US is standard gauge. I made this mistake when I started. I model US narrow gauge. I thought I need US style track. I was wrong and should have gotten Euro. Really when it is all balasted you cant even tell.
I have a mix of LGB and Aristocraft track on my layout. The Aristo euro or 11— has the same type of tie spacing as the LGB so it looks good together. I do have one section with a 10’ aristocraft horseshoe curve and that section has the american tie arrangement and I don’t like it as much since it looks really busy with all those narrow ties but it was a good price when I bought the box so I couldn’t pass it up. I don’t have any of the USAT track so I don’t how their ties match up. Those 3 major brands will work together.
I have a mix and AFAIC the Euro (ng) ties are just stronger so I prefer them. Some - not all- of my US (std) ties have broken down over the years due to UV but the Euro have held up great. Early Aristo Euros had brass that aged nice and black like LGB and the ties were just as good too. These are the best value if you can get 'em.
I don’t care about appearance very much as I don’t think people really notice, and I don’t notice either unless I really want to. Once trains are running, pretty much all I focus on is the train, and visitors are even less observant of those details.
If you’re fussy, just ballast over everything and let the moss grow over it all.
Nothing’s carved in stone - you can always make changes later, as time and wallet allow. I made some early decisions because of cost at the time, when I needed to buy a lot of stuff, and I don’t regret it. Since then I’ve upgraded here and there as my tastes and needs evolved. My approach is don’t worry, just do it and then do the next thing. If you end up with some lower-grade track, just use it in yr spurs and cover the ties with dirt. No sweat.
One thing I had too much of was 4’ diam shorts, the stuff you get in started sets. I figured out how to turn it all into long straights & wide radius curves. But that’s another story.
John Le Forestier said:Exactly my experience. If you can get a better deal on one kind of track than on another, my advice is "take it."
...I don't think people really notice, and I don't notice either unless I really want to. Once trains are running, pretty much all I focus on is the train, and visitors are even less observant of those details.
John Le Forestier said:John, I don't want to hijack this thread, but that's another story that I'd like to hear, as I also have lots of shorts I'd like to use somehow. Is there a thread on what you've done somewhere? I'd appreciate the link.
One thing I had too much of was 4' diam shorts, the stuff you get in started sets. I figured out how to turn it all into long straights & wide radius curves. But that's another story.
Steve.
Here in the UK and before brass prices rose significantly I laid Aristo brass track. Aristo brass track, both styles, is freely available over here, moreso than some of its competitors, and has the distinct advantage of having a much greater choice of lengths and diameter curves, in its sectional track range, than the others. As I was intending to model a Stateside railroad I chose the American tie spacing. I suppose there is no reason not to have either tie spacing - dependent on cost and availability at the time of laying - however it may be a good idea not to have them in the same area i.e. depot or yard.
Early on I chose the American spacing because I liked the look better. At the time I didn’t really know much about narrow gauge. Later on when I began building outdoors I used Stainless Steel track which is only available in the American ties. I run both 1:29 standard gauge and 1:20.3 narrow gauge stuff, so no matter what, the ties will be wrong half of the time 
Steve Seitel said:
John, I don't want to hijack this thread, but that's another story that I'd like to hear, as I also have lots of shorts I'd like to use somehow. Is there a thread on what you've done somewhere? I'd appreciate the link.Steve.
Hi Steve: I’m pretty much a newbie on this site, just figuring out the bells and whistles. Just figured out today how to post my avatar, for example. This post is the first one where I’ve quoted somebody. Still have to learn how to add pix into my posts.
Then I’ll sort out my photos - I’ve got 'em; and I’ll start a new thread on that topic soon.
Grunting up the learning curve…
thanks guys for all the input now i am more intrested in runing trains so like you said buy the best deal . i don,t care what the ties lookj like . bob g
Good to see you here, John. We Canadians who only live 4 hours away from each other, should get together…
Robert, and others…
I use code 332 rail, and #1 gauge track........I have two seperate "Operations", using the same #1 Gauage track.....whether the track is Euro, North American, Standard Gauge, or Narrow Gauge, matters NOT....what matters most is that the track is IN GAUGE, well supported on a stable roadbed, and offers an opportunity to operate a railroad, without derailments, other than those caused by operator error.
I use brass, Stainless stel, or aluminium…I’d even use steel, nickle silver, or plastic, if the price is right (Plastic doesn’t seem to work well out of doors, so I’m told)
The ties I use are from all manufacturers. Most have had samples that have stood the test of time since the middle 80’s…all plastic.
Our operators seldom notice the track, unless there are derailments caused by poor roadbed (Doesn’t happen)…they are more interested in operating their train, and having fun.
I suggest dropping the “G” gauge or “G” scale descriptions and stick with “Large Scale” on #1 Gauge track…There are so many “Scales” running on #1 gauge track, that it is better to use “Large Scale” as a description, unless you know the actual SCALE you are modelling…if you are sticking to one…
John…call me at (613) 723-1911, if you care to kabiz on the telephone for a bit…
Fr.Fred
at 5360 feet in elevation with temperature swings from 10-100, I’ve had best luck with 332 LGB ties and rail. The other two seem a bit brittle, I ended up restringing a bunch of aristo rail with lgb ties after they started falling apart.
The one test i have not conducted yet is Otis the dog versus track. So far all he does is step on it, no evidence of chew marks.
I have both track types on the ground, and can’t see much difference when they’re in ballast. I haven’t bought new track for awhile, but will again shortly, and will probably lean towards the euro style because I think it perhaps looks a bit better. I’m going to have to replace many segments of Aristo ties with new ones. Many have fallen apart. I haven’t yet checked to see if LGB ties strips are available. Have you found a recent source John?
Rich Niemeyer said:
I have both track types on the ground, and can’t see much difference when they’re in ballast. I haven’t bought new track for awhile, but will again shortly, and will probably lean towards the euro style because I think it perhaps looks a bit better. I’m going to have to replace many segments of Aristo ties with new ones. Many have fallen apart. I haven’t yet checked to see if LGB ties strips are available. Have you found a recent source John?
Rich, Aristo has always had issues with their Ties and other things falling apart, If you give them a call they will replace the Ties for Free… Nick
(http://freightsheds.largescalecentral.com/users/nicholas_savatgy/_forumfiles/good.gif)
wholesale trains sells both LGB n Piko tie strips.
Thanks John. I’ll contact Wholesale and see what I can do Niclolas, I tried that route. Contacted Aristo directly but never received any tie strips after they indicated they’d send them.
Aristo was probably out of them at the time and yours didn’t get back ordered properly. Give them another call. They’ve always taken care of me but sometimes needed a reminder of promises they made.