I would like to see pics from the members on what you are using for the end of sidings.
I need some idea’s to steel!
And could you describe how you made them if not obvious.
Thanks
Sean
Quick and dirty. 2x3, ripped to to height, then 30 degree cut on the table saw.
Here’s what I make…
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Similar design…
(http://jbrr.com/Pics/Bumpers/IMG_1261.jpg)
Article here: http://www.largescalecentral.com/articles/90/Making-an-End-of-Track-Bumper
I found that building a jig really helps
(http://www.ludist.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/Train_wreck_at_Montparnasse_1895_2.jpg)
Bumpers? What bumpers?
Nice bumpers guys.
Generally I use the LGB prell blocks and the Aristo modern type with the light on top.
Here are 2 homemades pieces. One is pretty simple, a stack of scale lumber nailed together with rear bracing. The strip along the bottom has a small chunk that fits inbetween the ties. The stopper looks rustic but doesn’t really work well. Don’t ask me how I know…
The other one is more robust. I used a piece of wood 1x3.5x3.5 or so then cut and ripped plastic from a window shade for the sides and to fit inbetween the ties to give it some grip. Styrene is just as good. The chunky bit on the front is at the proper height so the hook will pass underneath but the loop will crash into it. This block will stop a train. Don’t ask how I know. 
(http://freightsheds.largescalecentral.com/users/capecodtodd/_forumfiles/TrackBumpers.jpg)
I think the reason Bob went with his blocky looking Operations Quality bumper is because on his railroad with guest operators it’s important that they DO work, unlike this temporary EOT brick…
Jon Radder said:
I think the reason Bob went with his blocky looking Operations Quality bumper is because on his railroad with guest operators it’s important that the DO work, unlike this temporary EOT brick…
Yep. A piece of two-by and a deck screw will stop even the most enthusiastic engineer/conductor team.
I took a stack of wooden ties, placed them on my track (code 255 Llagas Creek aluminum). A couple vertical to go into the ballast at the rear and front, a little glue and some brads, and it works pretty well. I’m not sure it would stop a train, so I put an insulator (or just a rail cut), about a foot from the bumper, so that if an engine gets forgotten, it’ll stop before bumping the post. Wouldn’t work for battery-powered remote control!
I just use an old RR spike. Hammer it at the end and it wont go anywhere.
I’ve always used and liked the ones made by Ozark Minatures. I put them on with 2 part epoxy and in the public Timesaver display, they have taken some pretty hard hits. Ilike Shawn’s idea. Good outside, but would split and stick through the bottom of plywood.
Bumpers I’ve seen in prototype:
Single tie clamped with rods to the rails.
Two ties arranged in an “X” across the rails.
Cast metal wheel stops (Ozark makes some in white metal)
Stack of ties.
Box made of ties filled with gravel.
Pile of dirt or rock dumped on end of track. (SP did this on the end of tracks in at least one yard in Oakland, Ca.)
Bent rail formed upwards and welded together with supports.
In passenger terminals usually more solid and made of concrete with buffer plate to absorb shock both with and without warning light.
There’s a prototypical precedent for everything, guys. Back in 1952, when I shot this photo in Silver Creek, N.Y., where I hung out around the tracks, the NYC decided to use this hopper for a bumper. It sat there for quite a while, as I recall, as the building at the left, had been shuttered.
(http://freightsheds.largescalecentral.com/users/joerusz915/Hopper1.jpg)
